GUN Who here has played with spray/bake finishes?

Discussion in 'On Topic' started by phrozenlikwid, Jun 22, 2009.

  1. phrozenlikwid

    phrozenlikwid New Member

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    I'm going to have a couple pistols that I will need to refinish here soon. After having some of my shit more/less stolen from me from my last refinisher, and having another one drop off the fucking planet, I'm just about ready to say fuck you to that whole industry and do it myself.

    So.... Anyone here played with Cerakote? Yay/Nay? Would be nice to be able to spray some of my shit on a whim me thinks, and I wouldn't have to be at the mercy of some asshole who has been huffing fumes all day. I realize a good setup costs stupid money, but I think I have that part handled. My buddy owns a body shop, and I can use all his paint setup including his oven. So I don't think that what I'm asking is completely impracticle.

    I'm sure whatever I choose will likely look like shit fairly quickly, but some of my stuff is naked, and starting to rust away. I'm sick of trying to combat that stuff in the humid summers we get here, so I gotta do something. Besides that, there is a plethora of shit laying around here that could use a good blackening, to get rid of crap-tastic factory finishes that currently plague my collection.

    Conversely, if someone knows someone who isn't a complete piece of fucking shit that could hook me up, by all means let me know.
     
  2. Soybomb

    Soybomb New Member

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    I've used alumahyde 2 on a couple rifles before and was quite happy with it given a long enough cure time although it goes on pretty thick. I think you're on the money with a diy spray/bake coat. Worst case you could do it in a thrift store toaster oven
     
  3. phrozenlikwid

    phrozenlikwid New Member

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    You think that kinda stuff would hold up on a pistol though? One is my production gun which will be sliding in/out of Kydex, and the other will be a limited/steel/possible open blaster that will live in a Ghost. Neither will exactly be "pampered". I don't mind my stuff looking like shit, but I don't really wanna just completely waste my time doing the refinishing either. Know what I mean?

    Not saying it won't or anything, I've never used it. I just don't usually hear the Alumahyde stuff being put into the same category as something like CeraKote.
     
  4. Soybomb

    Soybomb New Member

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    At first I really didn't like the alumahyde but then like a month later it was really significantly harder than after the recommended cure time. I'm sure the bake on stuff performs just as well if not better. I don't know about any of it holding up to kydex long term but at least touch ups are easy if you're bored one day.
     
  5. phrozenlikwid

    phrozenlikwid New Member

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    Hmm... Might give it a look-see. Thanks for the heads up.

    I'm thinking this stuff can't be THAT hard, especially given the quality of people doing it.......
     
  6. Keesh

    Keesh New Member

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    I've used moly resin on a few AKs. This one wasn't even sand blasted before I sprayed it, just de-greased. It's worked pretty well, I think this one has a couple thousand rounds through it.

    [​IMG]

    This is a melonite finish after 10k rounds and carried daily. Done by http://www.drakesgunworks.com/

    [​IMG]
     
  7. phrozenlikwid

    phrozenlikwid New Member

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    Hmmmm..... Both those look pretty good Keesh. That's my biggest question, is how to prep the guns? Thinking a bead blast with some sort of solvent dip and a good degreasing would suffice? Not completely for sure just how to get rif of factory blueing/coatings/etc. Guessing some kinda industrial stripper or something...
     
  8. Keesh

    Keesh New Member

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    For prep on the AKs, I usually just sand blast use brake cleaner then wash with hot water and soap while wearing latex gloves. if you heat up the metal while you spray with a heatgun, it drys instantly and you can handle it easier. I think bead blasting is not recommended because it gives the metal a smoother surface compared to sand blasting, just what was recommended to me from a few other people. The gunsmith I use has a nice solvent tank which will make the metal bone dry, I don't know much about it.

    In my experience, having something parked and then sprayed with gunkote/moly resin/cerakote offers the best bang for you buck. It's a very durable finish and if you have some spare time and a little ingenuity, it can all be done at home. I've seen people build park tanks using a propane bbq for heat.
     
  9. phrozenlikwid

    phrozenlikwid New Member

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    WTF kinda magazine is that?
     
  10. Looks like an airsoft magazine, to go along with the orange tip.
     
  11. phrozenlikwid

    phrozenlikwid New Member

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    I couldn't tell if that was a plastic tip, or just some tape protecting the threads.....
     
  12. Good point. :o
     
  13. skeletor25rs

    skeletor25rs Yetis & Deer

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    Weird, I was going to make this thread when I got home. My dad's Ruger MkI's finish is in really bad shape.
     
  14. [DWI]

    [DWI] Master of Nothing

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    Just a word of warning on the bake finishes

    A) Make sure you have a big enough oven to comfortably do it (nothing like trying to fit a shotgun in a home oven)
    B) If there is a wife and/or live in GF, much like when you ran the cosmoline soaked gun through the dishwasher, make sure she isn't going to be home for a while.
    C)Apply evenly and lightly, let dry and cool between coats. (most likely will need to be suspended)
    D) Don't be afraid to sand the finish if there are runs or imperfections, then re spray
    E) Every little mark and I do mean every little mark will show though (at least with durabake) unless you sand the finish down or do an ungodly number of coats, fill all pitting ect with an epoxy of bondy prior to paint
    F) for pins and screws find a system that works, paint the receiver with them in place and score with an exacto knife or fill the holes with putty and paint the two parts seperately
    G) let the stuff cure, there is nothing that will piss you off more than getting into a hurry to reasemble the damn thing only to damage the finish

    I have decided that at least the bake finishes I will keep only for guns that have pitting that I wish to fill, I am not sure how the duracoat style work, I may try that next time I have a gun in this class (it would give me an excuse to buy a compressor and spray gun)
     
  15. phrozenlikwid

    phrozenlikwid New Member

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    So talk to me about this "filler", as well as prep.

    Devcon steelbed work as a filler? JBWeld? What am I looking for?

    Likely wouldn't be painting any screws, I was just figuring the thickness (or lack thereof) wouldn't hamper the threads. Am I wrong in my thinking?

    Got a pretty big oven that I can use out in a shop, so I'm not really worried there. Need to do some research on strippers (seen that Brownells sells something), as well as what to do for stuff like Nickel.
     
  16. phrozenlikwid

    phrozenlikwid New Member

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    I got a '75SA that I have saved back that will likely end up with that treatment. I'm hoping to do a slow "pretty" build with it to rival some of my dad's BHP's that he always talks shit with. It's super tight, and will be a great base I think. I've got several parts stashed away with it, and I'm ordering some Heine's this week for it. It will be a more expensive build, so I'm in no hurry.

    At like $300 a pop for IonBond treatment, I can't afford to do all my stuff in it. I seriously have like 5-7 pistols off the top of my head that could stand to be refinished, all of which get beat on regularly. I just want something fairly inexpensive, that will hold up for at least a reasonable time.
     
  17. yar1182

    yar1182 New Member

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    While I have not had time to play with it we do have a nice airbrush at the shop for duracoating guns. Mostly my boss uses it to do those digital camo finishes and they come out pretty decent.

    We blast the parts first but don't really try to strip it down to bare metal. You kind of want to keep whatever factory finish you got on the inside of the slide, especially the rails. Stuff like duracoat just doesn't work well in the slide rails if you actually put a zillon rounds down range (like me). My boss actually tapes the inside and the rails off. Then does a light blast on the outside of the slide. Then he duracoats it with several coats. He buys the camo pattern kits from brownells. After he is done he puts it in a toaster oven.

    Jojo is doing a lot of camo jobs on the 1911's he builds. I hear he has the guns blued first, then blasts the outside, then duracoats.

    Honestly I think if you somebody your gun is suppose to look a little beat. Seems the big boys all are rocking guns with serious milage and wear and tear. Have you ever seen pictures of taran's, voigt's, TGO's or Todd's guns. Looks like they got dragged behind a truck then had the dremel taken to them. Todd's guns look like they are white, that or he wore every speck of finish off them. The middle tier guys seem to be the ones with the pretty blasters.
     
  18. phrozenlikwid

    phrozenlikwid New Member

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    Thanks for the heads up. I've got a sand blaster, so I might just try that and a good degreasing and see where that gets me. A lot of this kinda stuff I do not just because I want pretty stuff (I don't really care), but because I can and I enjoy it. I'm a tinkerer through and through, and have a lot of fun screwing up my own stuff.

    I certainly hear ya about the cosmetic stuff though. I really don't care about looks so much on the stuff I have to use, but rust around here is killer. It's fucking humid in KY in the summers, hence one reason I always roll stainless given the chance. For example, I cleaned my Tac Sport frame last Thursday.... this is what it looks like now:

    [​IMG]

    My camera died after that picture, so I didn't even get to show you the top of the beavertail, which is starting to pit. If left unattended, shit will COMPLETELY rust away here. I have way too many guns, and even running de-humidifiers this is the outcome. I don't have anywhere to put stuff that is climate controlled. It's all I can do to keep the stuff I intend on selling looking pretty.
     
  19. phrozenlikwid

    phrozenlikwid New Member

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    I'm familiar with the finish, and have seen it in person. It's definitely the shit, and I definitely want it. I was thinking high-polish flats, and matte rounds on my gun.

    I remember your LB looked pretty damn good after you got it done, even after you had shot it for a while.
     
  20. phrozenlikwid

    phrozenlikwid New Member

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    So you're saying I should just steal a bunch of money and setup my own DLC enterprise, giving oter's 50% off?
     
  21. phrozenlikwid

    phrozenlikwid New Member

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    Shit, I wish :wtc:

    I wonder how much it is to get a setup from them? I know Canyon Creek has one....

    I was just kidding entirely, cause I neither have the time, nor desire to start a refinishing business out of my house.
     
  22. skeletor25rs

    skeletor25rs Yetis & Deer

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    So which DIY finish is better?
    I need to get something ordered so I can get this done before my dad's birthday.
     
  23. phrozenlikwid

    phrozenlikwid New Member

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    FWIW, I'm going to snag some Cerakote when I finalize my next Brownells order. Seems a lot of people are going with that as the best of the spray and bakes. Lots of peeps seem to roll DuraCoat if doing the air dry thing, or the Gunkote/Norells stuff.
     
  24. Keesh

    Keesh New Member

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    I'm gonna try the Cerakote next too, I've heard a lot of good things.
     
  25. Razardica

    Razardica Active Member

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    Cerakote is the hardest, Moly Resin has the nicest colors, Duracoat has the most options, Alumahyde II is the easiest

    They're all equally easy to apply with a shitty, cheap airbrush (sans Alumahyde)

    I rush through things and suck at prep and my shotgun is still lookin pristine after a lot of abuse
     

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