What would OT swap in for my 4.6

Discussion in 'OT Driven' started by BaronVonBullshit, Jun 24, 2007.

  1. BaronVonBullshit

    BaronVonBullshit New Member

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    95 Thunderbird 4.6L Modular. I figure a 5.4L Triton will bolt right up and wont add any weight :dunno:
    The 5.4 is only 260bhp though... I imagine I could just boost compression and buy a new cam ftw?
    Im getting a Jeep for my DD so I'm kinda just having fun with this thing right now
     
  2. MeanGreen

    MeanGreen New Member

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    If I was going to do it, I would get something like an 03+ cobra motor in there. I haven't looked in a while but I don't think its to hard to find some salvage yards that specialize in mustangs that sell a complete setup from totaled cars. Again not sure if there are any places like that but there are a few for the fbody guys. If you going to be going through the hassle of changing everything over then you minus well put something with some balls in it.
     
  3. deusexaethera

    deusexaethera OT Supporter

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    Mitsubishi 4g63. How does half the weight of your current engine + 350bhp sound? Not to mention all the extra space will make it wonderfully easy to work in the engine bay.
     
  4. NEp8ntballer

    NEp8ntballer New Member

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    I'd also suggest an 03+ cobra motor, or if you want to do the 5.4 you should try and find one from a Lightning. You'd want to take the tranny too if you went with the L. The 5.4 is a truck motor with a lot of low end torque, so it would probably be best to rework your current 4.6 with a stroker, heads, headers, intake, maybe a supercharger, cams, and an upgraded tranny & torque converter if you are working with a small budget. If you have a good amount of money to blow, then you can look for that cobra or lightning motor. You might end up with a blower sticking through your hood though. The rear end would need some work, and a gear change would be better for putting all your new found power to the road. I'm not sure what gearing you have but they're probably shit.
     
  5. Mjolnir

    Mjolnir WHM6D > *

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    Blown 5.4.
     
  6. deusexaethera

    deusexaethera OT Supporter

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    I still think the 4g63 would make a badass motor for this build. That thing is bulletproof. I've got a coworker running 23psi and putting out 380hp on stock internals (except high-lift cams) on one. You can always get a Flowmaster to make it sound more like a big, low-revving engine if that's all you really care about.

    Think of how much easier the car will corner without all that extra weight!

    - - -

    Or, you can do the opposite, like this guy did: http://www.cwstuning.com/gallery/coupe-degolf/Image046
     
  7. DustinWS6

    DustinWS6 New Member

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    Another vote for a 03+ cobra 4.6
     
  8. BaronVonBullshit

    BaronVonBullshit New Member

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    hmm running a transverse mounted engine in a thunderbird. no thanks. i was hoping i could just bolt something up
     
  9. BaronVonBullshit

    BaronVonBullshit New Member

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    that would be insanely expensive.
     
  10. deusexaethera

    deusexaethera OT Supporter

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    You DO realize the difference between a longitudinal engine and a transverse engine is the direction it's mounted, right? You can just mount the engine longitudinally and all will be well.
     
  11. NEp8ntballer

    NEp8ntballer New Member

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    except more power will be lost through the drive line on a RWD. he's probably looking for something that will most likely bolt right up to his current transmission.

    To the thread starter: You might be able to transplant a built chevy 350 or 383 into it with minimal effort.
     
  12. deusexaethera

    deusexaethera OT Supporter

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    I'm not sure I see the significance of the increased driveline losses; he'll get that with ANY engine in ANY car with a front-engine/rear-drive layout.
     
  13. Mjolnir

    Mjolnir WHM6D > *

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    That would require as much work as turbo 4 banger.

    For simplicity's sake he's better off with a mod motor swap.
     
  14. AcidAngel_5.0

    AcidAngel_5.0 Pure 0wnage

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    some of you are idiots.. jesus /shootyourselves

    modulars love FI... just open up the intake/exhaust and throw you a single turbo or procharge it...
     
  15. DustinWS6

    DustinWS6 New Member

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    He didn't say what kind of budget he was on


    And you are very limited to how much boost you can run on a stock motor
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2007
  16. deusexaethera

    deusexaethera OT Supporter

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    That depends on how overbuilt it is. If I'd expect anything from a Chevy small block (for the sake of argument), I'd expect it to be capable of withstanding 100hp more than it makes stock, at the least. Hell, my Passat's engine can withstand 300hp with stock internals, and 400hp with forged rods.
     
  17. BaronVonBullshit

    BaronVonBullshit New Member

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    i'm the threadstarter. and i was hoping for a junkyard special.. not dropping 6 grand into a motor :coolugh:
     
  18. Mjolnir

    Mjolnir WHM6D > *

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    5.4, some tasteful mods, and the hardware necessary to mount it.

    Good luck, and keep us posted.
     
  19. BaronVonBullshit

    BaronVonBullshit New Member

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    wont be for another 6 weeks til im done with school :coolugh:

    it's the same block though, so i shouldnt have many troubles. i may have to swap for a 96 tranny
     
  20. deusexaethera

    deusexaethera OT Supporter

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    If you're looking for a cheap upgrade, you're better off rebuilding the engine you have. Any "junkyard special" you're going to find is going to take a grand or two and probably a month of time to fix up anyway, so if you're going to have to spend that much time and money, you might as well spend it on an engine that you already know the problems with. Besides, rebuilding an old, wheezing engine into a clean, healthy engine is practically an upgrade in itself -- believe me, I know this much from experience, even if I don't know jack shit about Ford V8s.
     
  21. you know me

    you know me OT where the douchbags play

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    built 2v with boooooooooooooooooooooost maybe
     
  22. BaronVonBullshit

    BaronVonBullshit New Member

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    the thing about the 5.4L is that it's the same block im already running. it's just been stroked. to do that to my current engine, i would have to rip it apart, buy a new crank and rods, AND machine the block. why not just swap and roll? :dunno:
     
  23. deusexaethera

    deusexaethera OT Supporter

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    Because engines are heavy.

    Anyway, you sidestepped my point that unless your 12 year old engine is somehow in pristine condition, you'll be able to wring a decent amount of "extra" power out of it just by cleaning it thoroughly inside and out, replacing worn rings and crank bearings, and (guessing based on its age) completely replacing the vacuum system. (There are a lot of systems that use the vacuum to tell how hard the engine is working, and if there's even a small vacuum leak, the engine won't run right as a result.) Plus, you'll learn more about what makes an engine a good performer by seeing what has worn out on yours and by seeing which repairs restore the most lost power.
     
  24. E-dub

    E-dub New Member

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    1.) A modular 4.6 is not much heavier than a 4g63. And a longitudinal transmission for a 4g63 is not going to handle the power you are wanting here since you will need to source it from a Mighty Max/D50 pickup truck (20 year old platform). And a 4.6L will easily make 400whp with a bolt-on blower and no motor mods. Then you have to figure out how you are going to run the A/C, PS, etc. 4g63 is not a good idea.

    2.) Go source a PI 4.6L. Pull the stock head studs off and crank in some ARP's. Buy a cheap used supercharger kit like a Vortech V-1. Fuel pump, fuel injectors, intake, dyno-tune it. For less than $4k you just made a ton of power and it is stock minus a couple extra pulleys for the S/C so you retain A/C, PS, etc.

    3.) Don't do the 5.4, they are headache. More space, more weight, not efficient unless you are doing some big big big forced induction. Stick to the 4.6.
     
  25. deusexaethera

    deusexaethera OT Supporter

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    E-dub actually sounds like he knows his shit.

    If you were going to knock that $4k price tag down to a $2k price tag, what upgrades would you keep? The guy wants a cheap solution.

    Anyway, the engine will still need to be taken apart and put back together before it will stand up to performance modding. Unless the OP relishes the idea of scraping cylinder walls with stuck rings or welding his cams in place due to lack of oil flow, that is.
     

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