A&P Understanding B&W conversions...

Discussion in 'Lifestyle' started by IntheWorks, Oct 25, 2006.

  1. IntheWorks

    IntheWorks windin film.. takin pics Moderator

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    THought I'd put together a little visual on how important it is to properly convert your images to B&W.

    This is geared towards photoshop users... I'm not familiar with any other photo editing programs

    I'm sure there are a few members in here who could add some more technical details... I'm a crappy writer, so I'll do the best I can.


    First, lets start off with a look at an image that was shot with B&W film. There are serveral different types of B&W film.. each one will yield different results... it's all about personal preference, so pick what you like and go from there. I like Tmax films... so that's what I shoot.

    Here is an image shot with TMAX 100 film with my Mamiya RB67.

    [​IMG]

    Now lets move on to "digital" images. (*note* this was shot with color film, then converted to B&W using Photoshop)

    With proper conversion you can very closely mimic the results of b&w film. Probably the most commonly used, and worst, technique to converting your digital images to B&W is simply changing you image mode to greyscale.

    [​IMG]

    The main problem with greyscale is your lack of a true black/white. It leaves your image looking "muddy" and lacks contrast.

    My personal favorite conversion method is using the Channel Mixer in Photoshop.
    there are serveral tutorials on line discussing how to use this method so I'm not going to go into details.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    If you compare this method with just a simple greyscale conversion you'll notice right way the difference in the true blacks and whites, along with that extra little punch, along with a much better tonal range.

    Now, the last method I'm gonig to show you has picked up a lot of popularity recently... Duotones.
    [​IMG]

    There are also Tritones and Quadtones which give completely different looks...

    hope this helps a little.... maybe sticky worthy :dunno:

    Please feel free to add your own techniques, or any technical info.
     
  2. 1200mk

    1200mk Still same OG

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  3. cvgwpg

    cvgwpg Guest

    I agree with what was said about converting using greyscale mode. Its much to change it as explained above. Also once its converted to B&W, then using contrast/brightness in small measures adds to the look of a true B&W.

    If your going for a harsh look, then pushing the the contrast/brightness to much higher levels can add well to acheive an effect. I'm not currently on my home pc, otherwise I'd post a couple examples.
     
  4. Airpoppoff

    Airpoppoff Vodka > Racing F1

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  5. True channel mixer is the shit, there was a book I read somewhere.. like half of the book was about channel mixer and curves. If I remember the title I'll post a link to it.





    Black and white can be fun if you are good with layers. :wiggle:

    I used Derrict's photo for an example.... IBstolenpic


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  6. IntheWorks

    IntheWorks windin film.. takin pics Moderator

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    I don't like what you did there. :o
     
  7. mojito

    mojito New Member

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    Good stuff. I like channel mixer, but 100% red :noes:



    Another option is in lightroom. Heres a quick run through.


    Once you pick the file, click on develop, then at the top right, hit grayscale. Now this is very different than grayscale in photoshop, and you'll see why later.

    [​IMG]

    an overall view of LR


    [​IMG]

    Now you see the grayscale button and the basics of the image editing program. You can adjust the curves/levels in several ways, which is amazing. WB effects it too, worht noting.



    [​IMG]

    now you can see the next area of "development". The split toning is unreal, and you can see how this beats Photoshop's channel mixer by allowing you to adjust 6 colors rather than 3.


    [​IMG]

    then just click add, and what you did to the photo, and make a preset than can then be applied to as many photos as you want.
     

  8. just a 2 second example

    1. copy image
    2. paste in photoshop
    3. create new layer
    4. adjust new layer in channel mixer
    5. adjust layer's fill opacity
    6. burn
    7. add image by derrict , edit by lextc
    8. save
    9. upload
    10. post

    trust me if it didn't take more than .02 seconds i woudlnt waste the time :wiggle:
     
  9.  
  10. mojito

    mojito New Member

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  11. IntheWorks

    IntheWorks windin film.. takin pics Moderator

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    so, are there any benefits to lightroom over photoshop?
     
  12. IntheWorks

    IntheWorks windin film.. takin pics Moderator

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    you can get some really cool effects by moving going to the extreme on one channel, then adjusting the others to match it.
     
  13. mojito

    mojito New Member

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    you need them both, but just for todays example, LR offers 6 channel color adjustment, easy access and more intuive control to curves, easier access to vignette control, ability to quickly record what you did to sync with other photos, and something that PS really doesn't address is split toning. A like a yellow highlight, blue shadow image sometimes. that would be a PITA in PS, but takes seconds in LR.

    Then you have the other modules, like library (equivalnet of bridge) that allows for importing of shoots with control over all metadata, renameing, file location, keywording, rating etc. Then a slideshow feature, the best printer driver I've seen, and ability to make a html or flash webpage.
     
  14. IntheWorks

    IntheWorks windin film.. takin pics Moderator

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    and this is free software?
     
  15. Airpoppoff

    Airpoppoff Vodka > Racing F1

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    [​IMG]


    How did you increase the ISO? :eek5:
     
  16. mojito

    mojito New Member

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    for now. its still in beta, 4.1 at the moment. Good through 2-28-07. Then it will be purchasable software, probably 150-200 I'm tinking, to compete with aperature. It really speeds up your workflow if you shoot raw or use preset actions a lot. You still need PS for layer work or clone tool etc.

    LR stores the data in the metafile, so even in jpegs, its not doing pixel level work so no degredation as you play. And it store all your changes in a history file like PS so you can go back and undo/start over/remove a history state
     
  17. Mr_Penut

    Mr_Penut Elitist Member OT Supporter

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  18. Changed

    Changed Guest

    heres 3 examples:

    Desaturated (looks like shit):
    [​IMG]

    Channel Mixer (looks alittle better):
    [​IMG]

    my action for converting digital photos to B&W:
    [​IMG]
     
  19. mobbarley

    mobbarley Active Member

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    another quick and dirty way which I have had good success with:

    Use gradient map and choose black/white transition.
     
  20. mattsb2000

    mattsb2000 OT Supporter

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    Lightroom looks neat. Maybe I'll try it. :hsughno:
     
  21. :mamoru:
     
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  23. CornUponCob

    CornUponCob New Member

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    All desaturated via channel mixer. Don't ignore using small adjustments to the contrast slider as well. Negative adjustments allow you to slide the color sliders higher if you want a stronger sampling of any particular color channel.

    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]
     
  24. Someone posted a sweet B&W of the front of some old classic car not too long ago :coold:
     
  25. Changed

    Changed Guest

    http://www.photon.me.uk/PS/bnwlab.htm

    the link is down below... The action generally makes the photos way too bright, so I eliminate the "Brighten" step and also change the tone from sepia to more grey... You'll see when you run the action...
     

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