Uhh ohh.. Maaco.

Discussion in 'That'll Buff Right Out' started by Mycophiles, Nov 21, 2009.

  1. Mycophiles

    Mycophiles OT Supporter

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    I'm doing a maaco paint job and am doing the prep myself. I'm getting a RA to sand it. If you could a bit of advice would be great. The reason for painting is the clearcoat is coming off. I'd like to prep it for the shop so it will look as good as possible when I get it back. *(no clearcoat being put on) Then I'm imagining wet-sanding for any overspray and then a wax (have an orbital) and polish. Which I will do once a month.
     
  2. BlazinBlazer Guy

    BlazinBlazer Guy Witness to The De-Evolution of Mankind.

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    Is this Maaco job going over stock paint, or has the vehicle had any paintwork before?
     
  3. Scottwax

    Scottwax Making detailing great again! Moderator

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    You are making a mistake not getting a base coat/clear coat paint job. Maaco does not use particuarly great paint and the single stage is going to start fading on you quick. Then again, Maaco isn't going to put a lot of clear on the car either, definitely not enough to safely wet sand out imperfections. Clay would be a much safer way to remove overspray.

    Remove all your trim, headlights, tail lights, etc. Anything they will have to tape off, remove if possible.
     
  4. Mycophiles

    Mycophiles OT Supporter

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    Stock paint. I'm planning on taking the car completely stripped. All trim/housings gone.

    Edit: I've also heard of people bringing paint into maaco for them to use. Just a rumor though. Not confirmed.
     
  5. Morgan06

    Morgan06 New Member

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    I think that's a rumor, if it were a lower production and higher quality shop I'm sure they would use whatever brand/line you wanted, and already have experience with it. What I have heard of Maaco customers doing is requesting and paying for extra coats of clear allowing them to wetsand afterward.

    If I'm used to spraying water based paint, I'm not going to risk a poor outcome by using the PPG Omni that a customer brings me. It's not the quality of the paint that determines the finish, it's the quality of the labor.
     
  6. BlazinBlazer Guy

    BlazinBlazer Guy Witness to The De-Evolution of Mankind.

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    Yeah I think they just use whatever system the shop usually gets from their jobber. If I had to guess they're using something lower quality and off-brand.

    Since it is just stock paint, you don't have to strip all the way down to primer, so that's good. Just make sure you get all of the clear coat off the areas where it's failed and peeling, and the rest just be sure is scuffed adequately for good mechanical adhesion.
     
  7. pLaYIstIcPimP

    pLaYIstIcPimP New Member

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    why don't you check the local community colleges or Votec schools in your area. Most of the time they have body shop courses where they are looking for cars to paint. I had a car painted at a federal prison and it came out great. If it is not satisfactory to the teach, they go back and do it themselves. You provide all supplies. They do the sanding and everything.
     
  8. Morgan06

    Morgan06 New Member

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    +1

    I went to a tech school for Collision & Refinishing, we did full repair and repaints on cars from the junkyards. Did an Oldsmobile Firenza with a tri coat pearl yellow from a Honda S2000 I think. Spot blend repairs followed under tons of scrutiny- if you can find a campus that is looking for public owned vehicles it could be a huge benefit with little cost.
     
  9. Mycophiles

    Mycophiles OT Supporter

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    Well guys. I lost access to the RA sander/polisher and now am stuck doing it by hand. I've figured using the RA sander's you buy at home depot for wood etc.. are not a good idea to use.

    So my question is. To get the clearcoat off which sandpaper should I use? And to scuff up the paint which sandpaper?

    Also, I have a friend who is doing this also on a truck that is 2 tone. The 2nd tone is a body panel that has been replaced. The truck is champaign and the body panel is white. Does the new white body panel need to be stripped or just scuffed?

    Thanks
     
  10. BlazinBlazer Guy

    BlazinBlazer Guy Witness to The De-Evolution of Mankind.

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    Red and grey scotchbrite pads, respectively is what I'd use.

    The replaced panel should just need to be scuffed and shot; being white coverage should be alright.
     
  11. Mycophiles

    Mycophiles OT Supporter

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    I bit the bullet and bought an air compressor but it says that you can't use power sanders with it. Or to be more precise it says "not recommended". I plan on using it anyway but for short periods of time. harbor freight has a air power DA for 25 bucks that I'm going to use.

    My question. The pads... where do I get them? Are they the same type you get for RA sanders at Home depot?
     
  12. BlazinBlazer Guy

    BlazinBlazer Guy Witness to The De-Evolution of Mankind.

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    You want some better grade papers than that:

    http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-red-abrasive-6-stikit-disc-rolls-p-16557.aspx

    And what kind of compressor did you buy? Air DA sanders are THE MOST demanding of serious air supply; you'll probably have a tough time running one anywhere near properly without a good air supply.
     
  13. Morgan06

    Morgan06 New Member

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    .

    You can usually find a usable 220V 60 gal compressor with a decent motor/pump for $250 give or take on CL. Doing your prep work is only cheap if you don't need to buy the tools to get started.

    If you're painting over OEM paint, it should only need a thorough once over and by hand that really doesn't take very long. If the current finish already has proper adhesion it will make a good undercoat.
     
  14. Mycophiles

    Mycophiles OT Supporter

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    I bought a Cambell Housfield Model wl 6502. It's 20 gal and 1.7 HP (peak 5.5hp) With a built in pressure regulator.

    I thought I'b be able to use it if I used it for short periods of time. Some of the DA sanders say 90PSI and this compressor goes up to 130.

    Is there somewhere to get the papers without ordering them online?
     
  15. Mycophiles

    Mycophiles OT Supporter

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    The problem here is that much of the car has a clearcoat problem si'm thinking there is going to be much more work involved than just scuffing it up.
     
  16. BlazinBlazer Guy

    BlazinBlazer Guy Witness to The De-Evolution of Mankind.

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    Check locally for a body shop supply store or vendor that sells automotive paint... they might have either the 3M stuff or Norton.

    And when it comes to air tools, the air pressure (90psi) is nowhere near as important as the VOLUME of air the compressor can reliably deliver at a given pressure. The DA sander you bought requires 7-8 CFM @ 90psi, whereas that compressor you bought only puts out 5.1 SCFM @ 90psi.

    It simply isn't going to have enough power to work properly even in short bursts. You might get the tool spinning fine with no load, but it'll probably bog down or choke and die the minute you set it on a body panel.

    You're right, the areas with clear coat failure/peeling are going to need a bit more prep than just a quick scuff. To do it "right" you'll need to make sure ALL of the clear coat is off those panels. I'd suggest going with 320 grit to do this fastest while still leaving a good base for the new paint to stick to. Might also be advisable to have them shoot an epoxy primer/sealer under the new base coat just to make sure nothing shows through the new paint job.
     

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