A&P Trojan Campaign

Discussion in 'Lifestyle' started by derekOT, Jul 13, 2009.

  1. derekOT

    derekOT New Member

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    Alright guys, first time posting my pics
    go hard or go home! :x:


    Anyways, was looking for jobs on CL and found an ad for "nightclub photog." It has been something I have been wanting to try for a while now (especially being inspired by turbodude's stuff) so I replied and got the position. The company advertises in nightclubs and they are called barnet (www.barnet.tv). They were running a trojan campaign so me and another photog were following and documenting the action.

    I know the pics aren't as good as most of OTAP's but im trying to improve

    all shot with 20D + 17-55 2.8 + 580ex + diy lumiquest pocket bouncer

    C & C appreciated :x:

    1 the crew
    [​IMG]

    2
    [​IMG]
    3
    [​IMG]
    4
    [​IMG]
    5
    [​IMG]
    6
    [​IMG]
    7
    [​IMG]
    8
    [​IMG]
    9
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2009
  2. Wobistdu

    Wobistdu Guest

    never thought i'd find girls holding condoms to be so appealing

    :rofl:
     
  3. Wobistdu

    Wobistdu Guest

    5&6 look nice from that light affect
     
  4. Drunken Karnie Midget

    Drunken Karnie Midget In Yeo We Trust, All Others Pay Cash OT Supporter

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    7 - the cheek plate of his helmet is covering half her face

    2, 3, 6, 8, and 9 - your lighting is too harsh, either dial back the power you're shooting at, throw on a diffuser, or bounce your flash. you're getting some reflections, not just off their gear, but in some cases their faces. It also really makes their skin look oily.

    1 - shutter speed way too slow for the conditions, both motion, and camera blur.

    overall, not sure what the purpose of the campaign was, but you've got a bunch of quickly posed snapshots for the most part, but nothing of the activities of the campaign itself. What were they doing? just drinking, posing with random folks, and holding up a jimmy cap?

    Compositionally, 1 is the best, but it's garbage due to the camera shake. If you have more like it from various points through the night that don't have that short-coming, then you've got something there, otherwise, you've got a bunch of quick posed shots that anyone with a flash could take. I'm not bashing on Turbodude, his influence is clear here, but the purpose behind his work, and this (i assume) is quite different.
     
  5. UnNakedChef

    UnNakedChef 2jz Sackrider Holder

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    I keep trying to C&C the photos, but my fingers keep typing "Do want trojans girls"
     
  6. derekOT

    derekOT New Member

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    thanks for the comments guys

    wow Sociopath! that is exactly what i was hoping for

    in terms of the harsh lighting, I haven't gotten comfortable adjusting FEC in e-ttl so im constantly having to try to get it as correct as I can but often missing. Outdoors I'm finding I usually need like +1, then if they are wearing bright colors then i'll need +1 1/3- 1 2/3. Indoor i'm finding that with strobe lighting i need +1 1/3. This is the first time I've ever done something like this and I am not used to having to change all my settings rapidly and only have one shot at getting the pic.

    Overall, the goal is to get pictures of people on the street and hand out cards with the barnet.tv site address so that people will go to the site and increase traffic. That is why there are alot of posed shots. I agree with you though, I need to get shots of their activities too.

    I agree with 1 as well, the shot is blurry and needs a faster shutter speed or a blast of flash. This was just a quick shot that I shot on my first night out. The settings really don't make much sense: Iso 800 1/30 f/2.8 no flash.

    In terms of the in club shots, am I right in thinking i need to reduce my exposure to reduce blurring? They were all shot iso 1600 and im thinking i should dial it down to iso 800?

    Thanks sociopath!
     
  7. Keegan

    Keegan New Member

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    A fellow Vancouver OTAP member eh? :)
     
  8. derekOT

    derekOT New Member

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  9. Gvidon

    Gvidon New Member

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    Nice pics
     
  10. alexromo

    alexromo New Member

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    good pics but i cant stand how sweaty that trojan dude is haha
     
  11. Gvidon

    Gvidon New Member

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    I didn't even notice the dude until you mentioned it :hsugh:
     
  12. Irvin Washington

    Irvin Washington New Member

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    Ask me how I know you're gay?
     
  13. nindia

    nindia OT Supporter

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    lol i was out that night with my girlfriend in my car

    the trojan guy ran out to us in the middle of the street and gave us some condoms and goes "have fun!" then ran back :rofl:

    vancouver crew horra :wavey:
     
  14. derekOT

    derekOT New Member

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    hahaha I was there!
    the trojan models are pretty wild dude
     
  15. Drunken Karnie Midget

    Drunken Karnie Midget In Yeo We Trust, All Others Pay Cash OT Supporter

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    ISO is the "Sensitivity Level" or "film Speed" that your sensor is operating at. Higher ISOs, 400+, mean that the sensor is taking in the light faster, which allows you to rock faster shutter speeds. At iso 800, wide open f/stop, and you're still getting 1/30 of a second shutter speeds means you need more light. The problem with operating at high ISOs, is that you also get more noise, the higher the iso, the worse it gets.

    Ultimately, you need to find a balance in how you're shooting particular subjects. In the club, keep using the flash, you just need to work on how you're using it. If you're working indoors, in relatively stable lighting conditions, you can take a few seconds to snap off a few test shots to get your exposure settings how you want them, and work off of that if you're going for several similar shots.

    and if you're getting 1/30th of a second at 1600 ISO, dialing it down to 800iso would result in 1/15th of a second shutter speeds.... even slower resulting in more motion blur, and camera shake.


    In short, the ISO is how fast your cameras sensor will take in, and retain the light that touches it. Low ISOs need more light for fast exposures, but higher ISOs result in noisy images.T
    he shutter speed is measured in fractions of a second, or in the case of long exposures, full seconds.
    F/X.X is your aperture setting, the smaller the number, the larger the opening. Larger apertures let in more light, which allows for faster exposures, but shallower depths of field (distance that is in focus), and smaller apertures have the opposite effect.
     

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