Suit Fit Guide

Discussion in 'Lifestyle' started by cedric, Jan 4, 2009.

  1. cedric

    cedric I don't have a contract

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    It'd be nice if we could compile information here regarding suit fitment. I realize that there are very few hard and fast rules with regard to how suits fit, but some general guidelines would be a helpful reference for us all since there doesn't appear to be a single thread regarding fit:dunno:

    I'll start with this I guess. Feel free to add if you have anything to say :h5:

    http://www.esquire.com/style/suit-fit-0708

    Your list of "Signs Your Suit Don't Fit" said we should go down a jacket size if the sleeves are too long, and two if the jacket is too full. I think those two situations should generally be fixed by tailoring. A more useful accompanying guide might have shown how a correctly fitting suit should look. -- Gary Southon, Seattle Wash.
    We've provided many such tips in the past. Just for you, we went back and found the best of them. -- Editors

    [​IMG]

    1. Shoulder pads end with your shoulders.

    2. Your flat hand should slip easily into your suit under the lapels when the top (or middle) button is fastened. If you put a fist in, the suit should pull at the button.

    3. The top button of a two-button suit -- or the middle button of a three-button suit -- should not fall below your navel.

    4. With your arms at your sides, your knuckles should be even with the bottom of your jacket.

    5. Jacket sleeves should fall where the base of your thumb meets your wrist.

    6. Between a quarter and a half inch of shirt cuff should be visible.

    7. One inch of break.
     
  2. cedric

    cedric I don't have a contract

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    The one question that I do have about all of this is about the 6" drop. I read on Nordstrom's website that if you wear a coat with a 42 chest, then your trouser inseam should be 6" less than that (7" if you want a more modern fit). But for us guys who have a very v-shaped body, that doesn't seem to make a whole lot of sense. I 42" chest fits me perfectly, but my waist size is 32" on every pair of trousers I own. It seems stupid of me to go out and buy size 35" trousers just because that's what's supposed to go with the coat. Thoughts? :confused:

    http://shop.nordstrom.com/brand/men/suit-shop-men-mens-fit-guide-measure.shtml

    To get an accurate body measurement, always keep the tape parallel to the floor when measuring. Be sure to measure your body; do not measure over shirts or slacks.

    Once you know your body measurements, consult the Size Charts and Fit Tips on the product pages to determine which size you should purchase.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
    Helpful Hints
    • Suit and sportcoat measurements are given with one number and one descriptive word (for example, 38 short, 40 regular, 42 long). The number refers to your chest measurement, and the descriptive word refers to the length of the jacket.
    • If your over-arm measurement is more than 7" larger than your chest measurement, choose a suit one size larger than your chest.
    • Classic suits typically have a 6" drop, meaning that a size 38 coat is paired with size 32 pants. Modern suits have a 7" drop. An executive-cut suit will have a drop closer to 4".
    • Suit makers usually leave enough extra fabric at the seams to allow pants to be let out by 1" to 2". Pants can always be taken in.
     
  3. fondy

    fondy It's all about my bonus.

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    Good stuff, won't buy another suit till I'm a proper weight though. :o
     
  4. cedric

    cedric I don't have a contract

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    Oh Fongelina, if you wait until you're the proper weight, that cute little Dior cocktail dress you've been lusting over will be out of style :mamoru:
     
  5. fondy

    fondy It's all about my bonus.

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    ceriously ceddy, once I'm back in shape I'm going to need your help, I have such shit fashion sense. :greddy:
     
  6. fondy

    fondy It's all about my bonus.

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    And I'm not a woman you god damned ball gargler.
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2009
  7. cedric

    cedric I don't have a contract

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    like it matters what you're wearing, just bat those eyelashes and the boys will come running :h5:

    And I shop mostly at Banana Republic, Gap, Nordstrom, Macys and Martin + Osa. Not sure if we're on the same style page :hs:
     
  8. Soybomb

    Soybomb New Member

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    Looks like decent advice to me. Be warned that a lot of places people go to buy suits will try to talk the buyer out of shortening the jacket's sleeves to save themselves the work.

    Also be sure your dress shirts fit well, if you extend your arm and the sleeve rides up to your elbow it won't matter how much care you spent making sure the right amount of shirt showed under the jacket. I find that the buttons on barrel cuffs need to be made a little tighter for me to hold the shirt in place properly with a good sleeve length.
     
  9. b21bballer

    b21bballer Active Member

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    Good stuff. Thanks!
     
  10. jeyur

    jeyur cum fairy OT Supporter

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    thanks for this cedric
     
  11. everlong

    everlong nice crew

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    A couple of general advice I've taken into account.
    When buying a suit, alwasy make sure the shoulders fit, the tailor take care of the rest.
    When buying a topcoat buy it in the same size as the suit jacket. It may feel a bit tight, but if you size up it wont look that good. Of course you will have to size up if the brand of choice in topcoat is small in sizes, but you get the idea.

    A 3 buttoned suit will make you look taller. And you should get a suit wich turn invards(not a completely straight model, since men are not straight poles eighter).

    Edit: There are alot of people who will sell you anything no mather the fit, either out of ingnorance or greed. So you need to go to the tailor each time and get things fixed.
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2009
  12. ihaveanevilplan

    ihaveanevilplan Everybody wake up, wake up, it's time to get down Moderator

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  13. Soren

    Soren OT Supporter

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    i heard 3 button suits make you look shorter :dunno: i think GQ suggested 2 button suits for short guys and 3 button suits for tall guys.
     
  14. everlong

    everlong nice crew

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    It may just be me remebering it the wrong way. I'd trust GQ.

    Edit: While on the subject. Have anyone read Gentleman - A timeless Fashion by Bernhard Roetzel?
     
  15. cedric

    cedric I don't have a contract

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    Nobody has an answer to my question about the 6" drop? :(
     
  16. everlong

    everlong nice crew

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    As you say cedric, it dosn't make any sense. I use 52"(european size) in jackets, and pants is 33" or 34" depending on the model. The main thing about the suit is that it should fit, and since there are so many different body sizes I consider such things as guidelines, not rules.
     
  17. ~stangzorized~

    ~stangzorized~ New Member

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    Have like 3 weddings coming up during March-July. Think I'm just going to buy a light, cotton grey suit from jcrew..
     
  18. giz

    giz Active Member

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    inseam for me is 30" but my chest is going to be either 38" or 40"

    I say go with what fits you, not some rule
     
  19. steezebag

    steezebag New Member

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    great guide :bigthumb:

    the only suit I own is a one button really slim one from zara :hsugh:

    not very formal
     
  20. cedric

    cedric I don't have a contract

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    I went back and exchanged the trousers for a size 33 just so my legs don't look so damn skinny. HUGE improvement :o
     
  21. Nuts in Da Ass D in Da P

    Nuts in Da Ass D in Da P theslip.wordpress.com

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    get good tailor /thread
     
  22. cedric

    cedric I don't have a contract

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    One button suits ftw. Not the most formal thing, but if it was good enough for Miles Davis, it's good enough for me :cool:
     
  23. cedric

    cedric I don't have a contract

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    :ugh:
     
  24. nicklk

    nicklk New Member

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    I'm too big for a 36 and too small for a 38 :wtc:

    Having to get a custom 37 ftl
     
  25. steezebag

    steezebag New Member

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    I'm not 100% sure if its for me though... I'm tall and fairly thin (like 6'1 160?)
     

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