Stereo Install v. 2004 Corolla

Discussion in 'OT Technology' started by eighteen_psi, Jul 27, 2005.

  1. eighteen_psi

    eighteen_psi Active Member

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    So I got the rest of my gear today (for this stage at least) and got it all in. System thus far is:

    Clarion DRX9675z Head, Precision Power PC6600.2 Amp, Stinger Dream Series RCA Interconnects, Clarion EA1251 CeNET iPod Interface & a silver 6GB iPod Mini.

    Power is via Cableco Tech. 4AWG (With 1000V Jacket :p), ground is the same with 600V Jacket. Fusing is a 100A Monster breaker up front and fused distribution block at rear. Speaker connections are Cableco 12AWG. Power is up the driver's side, low level up passenger, high level up the middle.

    Coming soon is a set of Boston Acoustics Pro Series 6.5" Components for the front, and coming later is a pair of Boston Pro 8's for the bottom end. As it sits, with the stock premium components up front and 6x9's out back, it actually sounds *very* good. The amp has way more power than they can handle though, so the gain is down at bare minimum to keep it in check...but it still sounds quite nice and plays quite loud. The amazing bass (relative) has to be from the component baffles/enclosures in the door, which are quite nice...can slam the crap out of them and not get a bit of rattling or distortion.

    So, on to the pics of the head (<3 Zucchero..check him out)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The iPod interface works at it ought with newer heads...Clarion told me it would simply input audio for this one (a flagship 2001 model). Funny thing is it works perfectly and can control the iPod directly, see playlists (as long as you name them clarionXXX) and can display ID3 tags (another trick it doesn't officially support, though it does officially support CD-TEXT). The adapter also uses CeNET bus power to charge the iPod :cool:

    As shown, the face is angled for best viewing.

    One pic of the amp in temporary install location:
    [​IMG]

    Going to be fabricating a shelf for it to tuck it, a 1 Farad Cap, the distro block and Boston crossovers all up under the rear deck, making it nicely invisible. Probably out of aluminum but I'm not sure yet.

    So yeah...I'm happy with it for the time being. Just a little more crossover and PEQ tweaking to do. It'll be flat out awesome with the Pro's in getting ~200RMS per side :eek:

    Clarifications:

    Cableco Tech. is a high end/specialty cable house in the SF Bay area that hooked up cable stock and other wiring materials for some IT work I did for them a while back...figured I should mention that :rolleyes:

    It should also be noted that I do have a distibution block with a 40A fuse (that will increased if nescessary)...the breaker up front is mainly intended to protect against shorts (broken jacket, whatever) and provide an easy disconnect for working on the system.
     
  2. veonake

    veonake OnT poster, OT lurker

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    So you got the cable very discounted or for free, right? I hope you didn't pay a premium. Oh, and sell your cap.

    Nice choice of Boston Pro's and PP amp. As far as the install goes, I'd move the iPod to a hidden location for a more professional look, since you don't need to see it with the Clarion controlling everything. If your amp has a fuse (which I'm 99% sure it does), you really don't need a fused distro block unless you have multiple amps and want to quickly identify the amp with the problem.

    What are you using to adjust your PEQ? By ear? as for the X-over, are you going to use the passive ones included with the Pro's, or will you be actively bi-amping and using the Clarion's onboard x-over (assuming it has one)?

    Next thing, will you be keeping your rear speakers or going for front stage only? Lastly, where will you mount the Pro 8's?
     
  3. bearsdidit

    bearsdidit OT Supporter

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    old ppi is great... you cant go wrong with boston either.. when i instlal ipod adapters i usually leave the end of the cable in the center console or glove
     
  4. eighteen_psi

    eighteen_psi Active Member

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    I can put it in the console too..haven't decided where it's going to end up. The cables for both the interface and the ipod itself are both plenty long. I might do that at some point, we'll see.

    I got the cable for free, though its far better stuff than most available at retail (far higher strand count, far more flexible, nicer jacketing, etc). The cap, well it benefit me quite a bit with my previous monster rig in my tbird so I was gonna just throw it in..not going to hurt anything. But you're probably right..I probably don't need it. Eh....it's a nice one and can probably fetch me some decent money so maybe it'll go.

    The amp does not have a fuse, but rather internal (breaker?) protection (a big selling point of these amps since it supposedly robs a lot less current than a fuse...) Dunno if i buy that, but yeah...it's not that I don't trust it but I have the block and fuse..why not have an extra margin of safety? It's another item left over from my previous install.

    The EQ is just being adjusted by ear, both with some quality tracks and test tones (though I'm only going for something 'pretty good' given the stock components are still in). I was planning on using the boston's passive crossovers since they're supposed to be quite good, but I do have options if for some reason I wasn't happy. The head has crossovers on all outputs, and the amp has its own as well (which I'm currently using so I don't destroy the stock speakers).

    I also intend to run the rears, but I'll fade them out unless there's people back there. If I determine the Boston's need (like?) more power than the amp can deliver, I'll bridge the 4 F/R channels to em and just say screw the rears....or I may just do that anyway. I've never run rears in my installs, since you just don't need them with a nicely amped, wells sorted component set up front. The fact that they have a pretty trick mount setup as it is helps me out there too. Just deaden up the doors a little and I should be good to go, as long as the boston tweets fit in the stock pods (which it seems they will).

    As far as the 8's, I'll be building a box for each around 0.3 Cu Ft., one on either side of the trunk in the curves area where they'll fit nicely...so they'll use up pretty much no trunk space (and with the gear tucked up under the rear deck, it won't either). At that point I'll probably deaden the trunk (I still have a large roll of brown bread sitting around somewhere) and whatever else needs it, and perhaps upgrade the stock alternator if need be. These won't be coming for a little while so I have plenty of time to figure it out.

    One other advantage or not running rears would be the abilithy to mount the gear rack up higher (tigher to the rear deck)...neither way is a problem but without speakers it'd go from discreet to completely invisible from the outside...we'll see.
     
  5. veonake

    veonake OnT poster, OT lurker

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    Sounds like you've thought this one through, cool.
     
  6. johnson

    johnson New Member

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    Got any diagrams on how youre gonna build the amp shelf? I got two amps but only want to use one side of the trunk and leave room to lift the carpet for the spare tire so im only going to using the back part. Right now I was planing to lay one amp down then have the other amp sitting straight up (opposite angle of the rear seat) but that wouldnt be too good for cooling since the fins wont dissipate heat well.


    amp will be on the top right side of trunk. top left side is a small sealed box
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  7. bearsdidit

    bearsdidit OT Supporter

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    well the purpose of fusing wiring inline is to protect the wiring not your equipment, it is a good idea to fuse your wiring.
     
  8. veonake

    veonake OnT poster, OT lurker

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    Why do you need more than a fuse at the battery and at the amp? How is adding another fuse protecting the wiring?
     
  9. eighteen_psi

    eighteen_psi Active Member

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    Yeah :confused:
     
  10. bearsdidit

    bearsdidit OT Supporter

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    if the current from your battery to your amp exceeds the handling capabilty of tthe wiring you're using, it can possibly catch on fire. basic mecp knowledge.
     
  11. eighteen_psi

    eighteen_psi Active Member

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    Thus the breaker....that cable would move 100A all day though. What it wouldn't enjoy (for too long anway) is a short to ground...

    Thus the breaker.

    :squintd:

    I trust the internal breaker on my amp too....I just have no idea how to reset it if it needs reset (or if it even does)...and I'd prefer to replace a cheep 40A than have to service that amp (which can't be cheep). So I underfuse at the block.

    If the amp had a fuse I wouldn't even need to run the disto block.
     
  12. eighteen_psi

    eighteen_psi Active Member

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    [​IMG] :big grin:

    So it's done. I was going to go even thicker but it would have driven up the cost a lot and still bowed a little (that amp is pretty damn heavy). The picture makes it worse than it really is though...by no means anything to worry about. Next time I'm in there for something I'll drop another 2 from the middle to hold it there too but it's more than solid enough as is.

    Decided on lexan since it was easily obtainable and easy to cut...and drill, and acoustically dead. All the carriage bolts have rubber washers between everything though too, and the amp is mounted on rubber standoffs. Worked out pretty damn nice, IMO.

    Can't see it at all from the outside, and can't see a damn thing with the trunk open unless you drop down to look.
     
  13. veonake

    veonake OnT poster, OT lurker

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    Yes, I am well aware that if the wire you are using is too small of a gauge for the current it is being asked to carry it can heat up enough to the point of catching fire. However, when you have a fuse on both ends of the line, it seems what you are getting at is that electrons bunch up in the middle or something, so that they won't break the fuses at either end, which I don't understand. It would seem to me, that as soon as their is too much current draw anywhere, the fuse would blow. Maybe you could give me a link to explain this better. It's very possible you are 100% correct and I just don't understand correctly. Please explain further.
     
  14. bearsdidit

    bearsdidit OT Supporter

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    when i initially read his post it seemed that he didn't have a fuse or breaker between the battery and the amp... most people think that if the amp has an internal breaker there is no need to fuse the wiring. you're good on your understand of this concept.
     
  15. veonake

    veonake OnT poster, OT lurker

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    Alright, cool. I thought there must be a misunderstanding somewhere.
     

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