Single stage paint compounding

Discussion in 'That'll Buff Right Out' started by The Bilingual Gringo, Aug 18, 2009.

  1. The Bilingual Gringo

    The Bilingual Gringo KMD, 3rd Bass, just ace in the hole

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    I'm familiar w/ using a rotary on clearcoat, but my GTI is slowly turning from Tornado Red to Tornado Pink.

    I've done countless cars before, but never anything that wasn't clearcoated. Any advice?
     
  2. themolsen

    themolsen New Member

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    hmm....you probably don't need something very aggressive. start fine and see if you get the results you want. and go EASY on the pressure...you may even want to use a random orbital just to be safe. in my experience, single-stage paints have been really easy to correct for oxidation.

    after you're done, use a good sealant
     
  3. BlazinBlazer Guy

    BlazinBlazer Guy Witness to The De-Evolution of Mankind.

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    I'd agree... maybe start out with a PC and something along the lines of Meg's Ultimate Compound (or #205 if you're using the pro line) and see how it reacts.... then step it up from there.

    If you don't have a PC and just want to use the rotary in the first place, I'd say still stick to the same products but keep the speed way down and don't apply more pressure than the weight of the machine against the panel.

    The only thing you should really be concerned with is cutting down into the primer, past that it's not much different than working with clearcoat.
     
  4. JRock10

    JRock10 Active Member

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    yellow pad, hyper compound, 1800 rpms
     
  5. JRock10

    JRock10 Active Member

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    j/k. do what those guys said.
     
  6. Priest Tango

    Priest Tango Custom User Tits

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    i hate my mk3. i must be doing it wrong though, cuz it looks pink with in a week :rofl:
     
  7. BlazinBlazer Guy

    BlazinBlazer Guy Witness to The De-Evolution of Mankind.

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    You have to wax after you polish.... :mamoru:
     
  8. Priest Tango

    Priest Tango Custom User Tits

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    with the way this thing is over-engineered i kinda figured they'd add something into the paint that would wax it on its own.


    thanks vw for making the mk3's coolant run through the oil filter adapter to run as a makeshift oil-cooler :mad: 6 hours later and the upper rad hose is replaced :mad:
     
  9. The Bilingual Gringo

    The Bilingual Gringo KMD, 3rd Bass, just ace in the hole

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    :cool:

    I have to order some supplies so I'll give that a shot. My old Corrado before this wasn't a problem. I had used an orbital on this car before, but it's not long lasting enough.
     
  10. Scottwax

    Scottwax Making detailing great again! Moderator

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    Here is a write-up of a single stage guard's red Porsche 928 I detailed recently...

    1989 Porsche 928. Former autopia member referred this customer to me (through rennlist, I believe). Overall it was in decent shape, had some surface oxidation but otherwise looked well cared for.

    Miserable working conditions, rained overnight and during the detail (for an hour or so), then the sun came out. Combined with no wind and temperatures that reached the low 90s with humidity nearly as high, it was all I could do to not drip sweat on the car when I was working on it. Changed my shirt 4 times, would have changed my shorts and underwear too if I had brought extra. My shirts were not simply damp with sweat but absolutely SOAKED!

    Anyway, back to the detail. The owner is selling this car so he didn't want me to go too nuts on it, said to save it for his 997 Carrera he also wants done. I did a couple test sections with Meguiars #205 with a yellow Meguiars polishing pad via G110 and it did an amazing job on the oxidation.

    I had the car in the garage while polishing because it was raining so this isn't the best lighting for a before and after.

    Before

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    After

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    I followed #205 with a coat of Carnauba Moose, really turned out deep and wet for just two steps.

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  11. Scottwax

    Scottwax Making detailing great again! Moderator

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    Here is another single stage guard's red 928 I and a guy from Autopia did via rotary:

    This was a fun one, other than it being 40 degrees! Weekend Warrior (aka Dave) was in town and wanted to know if he could tag along on a detail with me and maybe even assist if I was comfortable with that. After meeting him, talking to him and seeing him work, he really didn't need all that much help from me! Other than using a bit too much product, he seems to have rotary buffing down pretty good.

    The hood was the worst part of the car, but under the garage lighting it was hard to see. Didn't bring my halogens, it was pouring in the morning when I left and I didn't have anything to cover them on the way to my car.

    The bumper and driver's side front fender appear to both have been reshot at some point and VERY improperly blended, both those areas turned pink and didn't respond to anything. Both areas also had paint checking, as you can see in this shot of the bumper.

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    Before shots, that is Dave taping off the car:

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    I started off with Meguiars #83 using a yellow Meguiars polishing pad @ 1400 rpm, finishing @ 1000 rpm. Just the fender was done. I know it is hard to tell, nothing really to reflect off the paint and less than idea lighting. During the time I was going over the car with #83, Dave was spot buffing the bumpers/tight areas using a PC, 4" LC CCS polishing pads and #83.

    [​IMG]

    The hood was taking two passed each section with #83, so I decided to try using Clearkote's Blue Moose Cutting Creme, which is meant for oxidation. Works amazing via rotary! Again, using a yellow Meguiars polishing pad at around 1400 rpm, it was like I was buffing with baby oil, it was so smooth! Of course, I had already done the rest of the car using #83, but next time on single stage, I am starting with Blue Moose.

    Got paint transfer?

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    Just one fender....

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    After all the polishing...

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    After going over the car with #83/Blue Moose, we both took a side and used Meguiars #80 @ 1100 rpm using yellow Meguiars polishing pads. After Dave got most of the passenger side done and while I was working on the back end, he went over the whole car with Clearkote's Pink Moose using the PC and a blue Swirl Buster pad. Since I didn't have my halogens and there was no chance of seeing the sun, I felt it best to finish out via PC than the rotary. As he finished with the Pink Moose, I went over the trim with Ultima Tire and Trim Protectant. Finished the car off with Carnauba Moose by hand, buffed off with the new version of Optimum Car Wax while Dave cleaned the glass with Clearkote's Quikshine. We dressed the tires, but only cleaned the wheels since a new set is going on the car soon.

    I received a very nice e-mail from the owner of the car (he found me on a Porsche board and Anthony Orosco referred him to me):

    Wow, car looks great. Better than I expected! Especially the "pink accents"! They even shine.

    Anything special I should do? Did you get any before pictures? Know you said you got a few after! I get the wheels on it I will shoot you another picture... will look like a whole new car with the rims and tires on it.

    Now my boy and I got to get on the interior! Thanks again, will pass your name along to others! Appreciate you taking care of me.


    It really makes my day when a customer takes the time to drop me a personal note like that. :)

    On to the after shots! I expect Dave will post his when he gets back home tomorrow.

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  12. Run N. Gun

    Run N. Gun Active Member

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    :bowdown:Talk about bringing those Porsches' paint back from dullsville! Both look very wet and glossy, just like they should.

    Gringo asked a good question, with a good response up by Blazin', and you gave us a very comprehensive post with solid reference info, Scott. Why not make this thread sticky for future reference? :x:
     
  13. midnite

    midnite OT Supporter

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    do you guys think #105 would be too much for single stage? My car looks quite similar to car#1 Scott did. I have 105 and 205 on order, I will try 205 first and see how it works just thought I would ask.
     
  14. BlazinBlazer Guy

    BlazinBlazer Guy Witness to The De-Evolution of Mankind.

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    I wouldn't go to 105 unless two criteria are first met:

    1) You have tried 205 via both PC AND rotary, and it isn't doing the job even on a more aggressive pad.

    2) You either (a) know the paint is thick enough that you won't cut through or (b) you have a paint thickness gauge and know how to use it.

    105 is a VERY aggressive compound, so on single stage I would be quite leery of it as anything but a last resort.
     
  15. Priest Tango

    Priest Tango Custom User Tits

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    wait....the headlights on those porsches pop out? ooooooohhhhhhhhhh i always thought they were somehow aimed to actually work like that :o
     
  16. The Bilingual Gringo

    The Bilingual Gringo KMD, 3rd Bass, just ace in the hole

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    Fuck, awesome work Scottwax. I have a feeling that the pads that I'll order will look like that. I'll snap some pics of my car later on this afternoon to give an idea.
     
  17. themolsen

    themolsen New Member

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    I forgot that Carnauba should be super-awesome on a single stage paint
     
  18. Scottwax

    Scottwax Making detailing great again! Moderator

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    Actually, unless a single stage paint has been polished a lot, they have a lot more paint to work with the base coat/clear coat. You've got about .5 mil of clear that can be safely removed (and at that point, don't think about polishing again), while you can have 4-5 mils of single stage paint over the primer.

    However, always try the least aggressive combo first.
     
  19. midnite

    midnite OT Supporter

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    I can remember taking a paint gauge to it when i first bought it and it was pretty thick as it has been repainted in spots. Will try the 205 first I think it should be good enough. Thanks for the help as always :cool:
     
  20. BlazinBlazer Guy

    BlazinBlazer Guy Witness to The De-Evolution of Mankind.

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    :o Just goes to show that I don't work on single stage paint often, and when I do it's on older cars that I have to be VERY careful not to cut through.
     

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