GUN refurb or leave alone?

Discussion in 'On Topic' started by b370, Dec 28, 2008.

  1. b370

    b370 OT Supporter

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    Ok.... So I finally decided to pull my fathers old gun out and decide wtf I'm going to do with it. Mind you I havent touched this thing in 15-20 years, and the last time it was shot had to have been 50-60 years ago. :eek3: After some quick research online its a Winchester model 1890, and by the serial # it was produced in early 1894. Overall the gun is in decent shape. Only 1 screw missing and the rifling is fubar/worn out. I dont ever plan to shoot it, but I would like to remove the surface rust and at least restore it. So I guess my question is.... Steel wool and gun oil? Or?? I'd rather not do anymore damage than the neglect its already seen. Any recommendations? Thanks :wavey:

    Ohh and since everyone likes pics.... (sorry they are so big. I didnt feel like re-sizing)

    http://roostfest.net/ar15/winch1890 (1).jpg


    http://roostfest.net/ar15/winch1890 (4).jpg
     
  2. Dumbstixlars

    Dumbstixlars Ron Paul/AR-15/Glock/old car/Scooby/R/C croo OT Supporter

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    I'd rub some of the rust off with some oil and leave it alone if it were mine.
     
  3. spankaveli

    spankaveli OT Supporter

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    leave it alone imo
     
  4. Bloody Sunday

    Bloody Sunday OT Supporter

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  5. mephistopholes

    mephistopholes New Member

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    Don't do anything to an antique gun if you want to preserve it's value. If you want it cleaned or restored have it done by a pro that specializes in these types of guns. Much of the value of these guns is maintaining their original finish.
     
  6. kds99

    kds99 New Member

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  7. b370

    b370 OT Supporter

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    I guess I should have been a little more specific. The majority of what I want to do is clean the rust off and give the inside a good cleaning. Should I not use any steel wool and oil to lightly clean the rust? I fully know the difference of the abrasive qualities of steel wool so its not like I'm going to sand it smooth.

    Thanks again everyone :wavey:
     
  8. 7

    7 First comes smiles, then lies. Last is gunfire.

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    see if it's actually worth anything before you make a decision
     
  9. b370

    b370 OT Supporter

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    From what I have seen online and it is solely on overall condition prices have varied from $250-$900.00 -\+

    I took a grey scotchbright pad with some oil on it lastnight to just clean up a few small areas. Before I go and do anything stupid I'll get a green or white scuff pad and clean it with a boatload of oil. The more I think about it, I'll just give it a cleaning, try and remove as much rust as I can, and put it away

    :wavey:
     
  10. Soybomb

    Soybomb New Member

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    0000 steel wool + some oil, scotch brite pads usually don't get into the crevices like steel wool does, plus I think they leave metal looking more scuffed up than the wool. ymmv but ...
     
  11. 7

    7 First comes smiles, then lies. Last is gunfire.

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    actually if the bore is shot I wouldn't even worry about getting it re-blued or anything, just hang it on the wall or something. Then again I guess you could get it sleeved or something if you really wanted to shoot it.
     
  12. Milky

    Milky I'm in your Millenium Falcon, rumbling your Wookie

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    Scotch brite pads can take the bluing off as well. Try either 0000 steel wool or a rag with hoppes no 9 or gun oil.
     
  13. b370

    b370 OT Supporter

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    Its marked as a 22 short, but I faintly recall my father telling me it would do more than just shorts.
    After looking at what is available online (gunbroker and other related sites) I would say due to the serial # and limited production that year it would make it a worth while collectors piece. I highly doubt I will ever shoot it, and wouldnt risk having it sleeved when it wont be used again.
    Whats the cost to have a gun re-blued?
     
  14. b370

    b370 OT Supporter

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  15. Soybomb

    Soybomb New Member

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    I really can't tell anything from those pictures but in general you'd be looking for sharp edges on the rifling, the lands (the raised part between each cut) should be smooth and even, the grooves between the lands ideally won't be filled with rust pits and will be distinct from the lands. Ideally the bore will be shiny and pit free, but again some rust pitting doesn't mean its totally done for. The crown where the rifling ends, the last thing the bullet touches, should also be free from damage.

    Short of neglect leading to rust, or abusive from bad cleaning practices, I imagine the bore is fine. Its just plain hard to shoot out a .22lr, let alone a .22 short.
     
  16. b370

    b370 OT Supporter

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    Yea I find it very difficult to take photss of inside the barrel of a 22 :wtc:

    I'm also quite sure that quality of rifling back in 1894 is no where near the standards of today. To me it looks as if almost all the rifling is gone :eek3: and at the crown there is literaly no rifling marks. I'll try to get some better photos tonight.. Anyone have any tips at getting a good shot down the barrel? :x:
     
  17. el capitan

    el capitan New Member

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    my father in law has an 1897 and it looks to be in about the same shape. i'm going to find him some sort of shadowbox frame to mount it in and call it a day.


    i'm sure it will still fire, but it would probably do more harm than good.
     

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