Recommend AMP and/or Size..

Discussion in 'OT Technology' started by DatacomGuy, Oct 25, 2003.

  1. DatacomGuy

    DatacomGuy is moving to Canada

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    I have a JL W3 15" sub. Right now I am running it off of an MTX 4-channel amp. Don't remember the size (I've had it for years :hs: ) and I'm running each voice coil bridged to one side of the amp (i.e. VC1 to Front left and right, VC2 to Rear left and right).

    Sounds good, hits decent.. but nowhere near it's full potential. I'd like to get something used of ebay to save my wallet a bit.

    Recommend a good brand and or size.. I'm more or less looking for size (wattage) then brand. I'd like to use the MTX amp for the mids and highs as I just got a crossover..so I'd like this to sound nice.

    K. Go.
     
  2. twistid

    twistid Banged By Super Models Moderator

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    dvc 2 or 4 ohm???
     
  3. twistid

    twistid Banged By Super Models Moderator

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    also what size, and type of an enclosure is it in???
     
  4. GlocksRock

    GlocksRock Glock > You

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    I would give that sub about 500 watts rms.
     
  5. twistid

    twistid Banged By Super Models Moderator

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  6. 04

    04 Guest

    It would probably work well with a Lanzar Vibe 1200D too, especially if its dual 2 ohm coils for a 4 ohm load is like around 400 to 500wrms. Dual 4ohms would get you around 800wrms, which is probably more than the speaker needs.
     
  7. DatacomGuy

    DatacomGuy is moving to Canada

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    Right now It's not setup.. but when I had it setup previously I had it setup as dual 4 ohm. Sounds OK with the MTX amp, but like I said.. nowhere NEAR what it should.
     
  8. twistid

    twistid Banged By Super Models Moderator

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  9. DatacomGuy

    DatacomGuy is moving to Canada

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    250w enough?? :eek3:

    According to this site, max RMS on the sub is 400w..

    And I did some research, and looks like my current amp is the MTX Blue Thunder 504. (80x4 or 160x2)
     
  10. twistid

    twistid Banged By Super Models Moderator

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    that amp is underrated, they test their amps @ 12.9v unlike most companies that test @ 13.8v. you also need to look @ the 375W x 1 @ 2 ohms, since your sub is a DVC @ 4ohms/coil.
     
  11. DatacomGuy

    DatacomGuy is moving to Canada

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    This is where I get lost on the whole ohms deal. I'm a noob when it comes to that stuff.

    If the DVC is @ 4ohms/coil, then how would the 375 @ 2ohm effect the setup? Educate me. ;)
     
  12. twistid

    twistid Banged By Super Models Moderator

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  13. 04

    04 Guest

    If your current amplifier is 160x2, and you are using both bridged channels for the sub, then the subwoofer is getting 320wrms. However, if you are only using one channel, then thats about 160wrms. Upgrading to a new amplifier of 400 watts will get you less than 4 decibel louder assuming you are only using one bridged channel for the subwoofer. That isnt really a lot. It takes 4 times as much power to get the cone to move back and forth twice as far also.

    You said that your current setup doesnt sound right? Does it sound distorted, or not loud enough?
     
  14. DSHR

    DSHR Well-Known Member

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  15. 04

    04 Guest

    I agree, but you COULD get the Lanzar vibe 1200d for around 230 or so, but it will only put out 800wrms or so into 2ohms. The Lanzar has a subsonic filter too, which could be a plus. But either the JBL or Lanzar would be a good amplifier.
     
  16. DatacomGuy

    DatacomGuy is moving to Canada

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    Sounds fine, just not loud enough. I know it's not hitting its peak.. I want it to shake the whole car.. I want to get max potential without blowing it.

    BTW - I was running each voice coil to each side.. so the 320wrms is accurate.
     
  17. DatacomGuy

    DatacomGuy is moving to Canada

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    Which one is better/more reliable/will last the longest
     
  18. GlocksRock

    GlocksRock Glock > You

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    I'm gonna say the JBL, but it all depends on how hard you run it.
     
  19. 04

    04 Guest

    I too would say the JBL is probably more reliable. But I haven't had any problems with the 2 Lanzar vibe 1200Ds I have installed either.

    However, I wouldnt expect much more of a difference if you upgrade to a 800 watt amplifier, unless your current amp isnt really putting out 320 watts.
     
  20. DatacomGuy

    DatacomGuy is moving to Canada

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    :hs: Great. :rofl:

    So should I consider different subs and a different amp then?

    I'm just not overly pleased with how hard it hits. So hard to explain over the internet..isn't it? :rofl:
     
  21. GlocksRock

    GlocksRock Glock > You

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    I think it just needs more power, that sub is a great sub. Not the best you can buy, but far from crappy too. Maybe you need a new box?
     
  22. 04

    04 Guest

    Well my guess would be that somethings wrong if a 15" W3 isnt loud enough...

    Do you want it loud enough so that your vision is blurred and you can hear your car down the street?

    Something very well could be broken, or you might have the W3 in a less than optimal enclosure. How large is the box its in, and is it ported, sealed, bandpass, etc? If its ported, can you give me the dimensions for the port?
     
  23. DatacomGuy

    DatacomGuy is moving to Canada

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    It's a single sealed enclosure. (Without looking at it) About just under 3 feet long, foot deep (front to back), 20" tall (give or take, it's not in front of me right now).

    As far as I know, the sub is OK. I installed it brand new (warranty exchange, that MTX amp kept blowing out my Orion 15", so they gave me JL instead). Only installed 4 months or so before I sold that car and put it in my garage, where it sits now. I should probably test the amp though.. if I remember, one of the sides of the rear channel is weak (low output), but would that effect it THAT much?
     
  24. 04

    04 Guest

    Well the enclosure size should be fine.

    It is possible that the amplifier may be broken. If possible, try hooking up a different amplifier in its place. Also, make sure that the polarity is correct between the wiring of the two voice coils, if the polarity is switched, then you will have greatly reduced output. To test this, simply flip the + and - on one of the amplifier terminals.
     

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