Possible Subwoofer Set-up - Opinions Welcome

Discussion in 'OT Technology' started by LowIS300, Oct 7, 2003.

  1. LowIS300

    LowIS300 Guest

    Well I'm thinking of adding some subs to my 2001 Suburban. I pretty much decided on four 12 inch subs and obviously an amp. What do you guys think of this set-up and how do you think it will sound. I've put systems in several cars, and they sounded great. But filling a small car with bass is quite a bit different that filling a Suburban will bass. The two 12's I had in my Lexus IS300 sounded awesome in the IS300, but it sounds like crap in the Suburban.

    Speakers:
    [​IMG]
    Four (4) Sony Xplod XS-L121P5
    Frequency response 18-2,000 Hz
    Power handling 350 watts
    Peak power handling 1200 watts
    Sensitivity 89 dB
    Top-mount depth 6-5/16"
    Sealed box volume: 1.0 cubic feet
    Ported box volume: 1.58 cubic feet.
    Rubber surround

    Amps - Sony or Profile

    Sony:
    [​IMG]
    Sony XM-2165GTX XPLOD
    1000W max power
    165W x 2 into 4Ohms, 20Hz - 20kHz, @ 0.1% THD
    200W x 2 into 2Ohms, 20 - 20kHz, @ 0.15% THD
    400W x 1 into 4Ohms, 20Hz - 20kHz, @ 0.1% THD
    Class AB
    Variable 50 - 300Hz Low Pass Filter
    40Hz EQ Boost
    RCA & Speaker Level Inputs
    Speaker Impedance : 2 - 8Ohms stereo, 4 - 8Ohms mono
    Frequency Response : 5 - 50kHz
    Input level range : 0.3 - 6V (RCA), 1.2 - 12V (High level)
    Power Supply Voltage range : 10.5 - 16V
    Current drain (at rated output 4Ohms) : 42 A

    Profile:
    [​IMG]
    Profile CA800 2 CHANNEL 800W
    Peak Output Power: 400W x 2
    RMS Output Power (4 Ohms): 200W x 2
    RMS Output Power (2 Ohms): 300w x 2
    Bridged RMS Output Power (4 Ohms): 600W x 1
    Dual MOSFET Power Supply
    THD: <0.07%
    Signal / Noise Ratio: 102dB
    High Level Inputs
    Variable Bass Boost at 45Hz: 0-12dB
    Switchable Crossover: High Pass / Off / Low Pass
    Variable Crossover Frequency: 40Hz - 500Hz
     
  2. amill94

    amill94 OT Supporter

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    I don't trust or like Sony brand audio stuff. I know that amp is nowhere near its said "specs". If you don't want to spend a lot of money, it'll be nice out of the cheaper setups...if thats what your going for. If you want better go with JL subs. I've used them for about 2 years. You can get a JL12w3 for cheap. I'm using a 12w6v2 now pushed by an Alpine MRD-500 amp.
     
  3. flynfrog

    flynfrog Cool isnt Cheap

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    i wouldnt purchase any of the products you listed
    you can also look at other brands beside jl Image dyanics resonat enginerring shiva audio ect

    as far as amps possibly a jbl d class or a crossfire maybe there are alot better products out there for a littl more money
     
  4. twistid

    twistid Banged By Super Models Moderator

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  5. flynfrog

    flynfrog Cool isnt Cheap

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    i second going with 0ne or two good subs instead of 4 crap subs
     
  6. denim

    denim New Member

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    I agree, it is much better to go with quality than quantity if your not going to compete
     
  7. LowIS300

    LowIS300 Guest

    I think I revised my selection of components. What do you all think of the 12" Kicker Solo-baric L7's? and a kicker amp? I was thinking of using Two of the 4 ohm L7's hooked up in parallel to a KX600.1 Kicker Amp
     
  8. blown11

    blown11 New Member

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    THAT SONY AMP IS THE BIGGEST PEICE OF SHIT IVE EVER USED....
    /rant off


    sorry I got one for free and it was a peice, save your time on that one
     
  9. boostin-gp

    boostin-gp Guest

  10. twistid

    twistid Banged By Super Models Moderator

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    remind me never to take anything you say seriously.
     
  11. boostin-gp

    boostin-gp Guest

    Might as well go ahead and pick up the MTX RoadThunders. Basically the same f-ing sub.

    The coustic CF series I could do. But the Coustic BP series is entry level stuff. If you are telling him to pick the BP 12's over the Sony P5 12's, I dont know where you've heard both of them. Maybe this years new Coustics are really nice subs? I remember last years BP's and they didnt impress me at all.

    I would rather spend the extra $5 a sub and get the P5's over the Coustic BP's.

    Please explain to me why you wouldnt - are the BP's REALLY that much better this year?
     
  12. twistid

    twistid Banged By Super Models Moderator

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    everything sony we sold, came back... so we dropped the line, and the other shop in town picked it up... so we still see them. where rarely has anything coustic/mtx had to be RAed... if it did it was for owner abuse, not manufaturing issues... coustic/mtx stay out there, and are great bang for the buck.
     
  13. boostin-gp

    boostin-gp Guest

    I agree. Other than MTX and thier dustcap issues on the 6000's and 8000's, I have had no issues.

    I agree... Sony's line last year SUCKED when it came to subs. I still hate thier amps, and honestly never recommend them. But thier P5 subs, for the money, IMO are well worth the $5/each over the BP's.

    They have the same sensitivity. They handle more power RMS and peak. They play a a larger range of sound, and I just looked at sounddomain again, and the Sony's are actually sale priced $5 LESS than the Coustic BPs right now.

    Coustic has some nice subs, but my vote stands for the P5's. :wiggle:
     
  14. 04

    04 Guest

    That doesnt mean anything, all the manufacturers rate their products differently, you cannot compare numbers like that to get an accurate representation. And besides, none of those parameters mean anything in terms of how much output you will get below 100hz.
     
  15. boostin-gp

    boostin-gp Guest

    What are you supposed to compare then? Anything else is up to the listeners ear, and more importantly, the box design.

    Maybe I dont know quite as much as I thought I did. Please explain.

    <- always learning
     
  16. twistid

    twistid Banged By Super Models Moderator

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    wait, what dust cap issues??? do you work for a chain store??? the Walmart's, CC's, BB's, REX's, etc. get b-stock items... companies cut corners for the large chains with buying power... and not just in car audio is this the case.
     
  17. boostin-gp

    boostin-gp Guest

    yeah... i'm at one of the major chain stores you listed.

    we see a lot of the 6000/8000's come back and teh dustcaps just come unglued.

    didnt know about the b-stock shit. so basically we're getting sub-standard equipment? :hs:
     
  18. twistid

    twistid Banged By Super Models Moderator

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    you know those really purdy type rf rockford amps??? most regular shops that are authorized dealers don't carry them. companies like rockford, pioneer, mtx have all been known to cut corners for chain stores, which gives the products a bad image.
     
  19. 04

    04 Guest

    The only parameters you can compare between loudspeakers are those that can't be fudged, and that actually mean something. Such as driver damping, Vas, and free air resonance. Those cannot be fudged, and they are used for box design. You can extract true "sensitivity" ratings from them, but very often car manufacturers will rate system senstivity in car, or a .5 meter, which gives inaccurate results.

    Power ratings for a speaker dont mean much at all. 900 watts RMS could mean the speaker could handle 900 watts RMS for 2 seconds, or two hours straight. They don't tell how it was measured, if its a test tone, pink noise or other signal. You see how that specification could be misleading?

    To determine the output of any driver at low frequencies, you simply multiply the speaker's radiating area (cone area) by its linear excursion. The one that is the highest will have the POTENTIAL to get the loudest. Box size and type also play a very large role at this point, but sensitivity does not. Power handling is a factor as well, but like I said before, each manufacturer rates it differently, making comparisions very difficult if not impossible.
     

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