Paging Scottwax and crew

Discussion in 'That'll Buff Right Out' started by red, Dec 26, 2009.

  1. red

    red New Member

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    The problem:

    (thumbnail'd)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    This truck got it every day from a sprinkler for about a year.


    In the garage:


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    ...and about 50 pounds of microfiber mitts and rags and whatnot.


    The solution:
    ?

    I have no idea where to begin. I suppose washing the fucker wouldn't be a bad start, but I'm not sure what the right way to go about getting those marks out is. I understand most of the answers I'm looking for will be in EDUs somewhere in this forum, I'm just not sure which methods I should use.

    halp?
     
  2. Scottwax

    Scottwax Making detailing great again! Moderator

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    Throw the rubbing compound in the trash. Best OTC product for compounding is Meguiars Ultimate Compound and it isn't even close. You are MUCH better off getting a PC7424 XP or a Meguiars G110v2 than polishing out your car by hand. However, if you read the swirl removal by hand sticky, you will be able to make a noticeable improvement.
     
  3. red

    red New Member

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    The "swirl removal by hand" method is the same method I should use to get those water marks out?
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2009
  4. Morgan06

    Morgan06 New Member

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    The drip marks? Clay may take care of it on it's own and no need for compound- without the PC or G110 and being stuck polishing by hand you may find just the wash/clay/wax to be sufficient.

    Not show car, near new truck or swirl free finish- but clean and protected from further stains.
     
  5. red

    red New Member

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    Awesome. Thanks.
     
  6. justin30513

    justin30513 New Member

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    I've used Ultimate Compound a lot and love it. Best deal out there. Finishes out very nice. If you could get a G110V2, you'd be set for life.
     
  7. red

    red New Member

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    But that's for getting circles out, not for getting watermarks out, right?
     
  8. quamen

    quamen New Member

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    call a professional in your local area, those prodcuts you have will not cut it.
     
  9. BlazinBlazer Guy

    BlazinBlazer Guy Witness to The De-Evolution of Mankind.

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    Read the EDU thread.... there is much for you to learn, grasshopper. :eek3:
     
  10. Paintballny

    Paintballny New Member

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    +1 on throwing that compound out. All you will do is damage your paint.... ask my previous accord how I know...
     
  11. red

    red New Member

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    For fuck's sake. All I'm trying to do is get the watermarks out. I don't care about the rest.
     
  12. Paintballny

    Paintballny New Member

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    Vinegar and water on the glass.....t hen just wash with good carwash soap and then clay and wax. Should be enough...
     
  13. Scottwax

    Scottwax Making detailing great again! Moderator

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    Well, for fuck's sake, we are trying to help you do that the best way possible.
     
  14. red

    red New Member

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    Sorry, drunk posting :uh:

    I'm just a bit confused by all of talk about what the best rubbing compound is, when the only person who mentioned the water marks is saying that the clay bar is actually the way to get them out.
     
  15. BlazinBlazer Guy

    BlazinBlazer Guy Witness to The De-Evolution of Mankind.

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    All we're saying is you don't want to be using that Turtle Wax shit in any way, shape, or form. And without actually seeing/feeling of your truck's finish in person, there's no way for us to judge the damage and say that just a clay bar is needed to fix the water spots. If all they are is calcified surface deposits, the clay bar will do the trick.

    However, it's possible that the contaminants have etched the paint, in which case only some deep compounding and polishing will provide defect correction. Even then, if the etching is deep enough it may not be possible to remove the defects without refinishing.

    So the ball is in your court. I'd say at this point you need to get a clay bar and give it a shot; once you've done that we can revisit whether or not deeper compounding/polishing will be necessary to take care of your problems.
     
  16. red

    red New Member

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    Excellent. Thanks.

    This neighborhood has some extreme faggotry regulations on water usage, so I have to wash the thing ass early in the morning, and I haven't had time yet. Probably give it a go tomorrow.
     
  17. quamen

    quamen New Member

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    first off no clay bar is going to get those water marks out, or i want that clay bar. I have been detailing professionally for over 10 years, and water marks are one of the hardest thing I have come across to remove. I usually end up going really aggressive with the rotary, or wet sanding to remove the defects.

    Second you post a picture of a orbital buffer which doesn't generate any heat, it just mimics the hand motion and save you some time and your arm from falling off. That combined with some store bought compound your your looking for a worse nightmare than you have on your hands now.

    Again water marks are extremely difficult, and I have tired water mark removers, the vinegar trick etc, with less than great results. I would really spend the money and have a professional evaluate the situation and give him his opinion. Plus by the picture we have no clue to determine how far the marks have etched into the paint, how much clear is on the paint etc. This type of question your asking, it very different for each job depending on the severity of the water marks, the year of the vehicle, color etc, it all depends. We are just trying to help and i would love to say your method is going to work, but in this case i feel your best bet is to have it done professionally or learn the correct techniques to tackle a job like that
     
  18. Morgan06

    Morgan06 New Member

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    Usually we can come to sort of consensus, but I'm sticking with my suggestion of taking the path of least resistance. No reason to step up to wetsanding and 105 via rotary just yet.

    Threadstarter has clay on hand and I'm assuming soapy water to go with it- sight unseen all anyone can suggest would be to try it first. It may work, it may not; it may take him two hours or just a few passes.

    If that doesn't work I'm sure he's got some iso-alcohol, vinegar or maybe even an all purpose cleaner and bug sponge to try. Followed by even his 'turtle shit' by our standards rubbing compound. It may save him a trip to a professional detailer and a couple hundred bucks.
     
  19. red

    red New Member

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    Don't know what to tell you bro.


    [​IMG][​IMG]


    [​IMG][​IMG]


    Shit worked. :dunno:

    I had washed the truck before I took these 'before' picks of the water marks. They don't come out with soap and water. Probably going to take me two days and three elbows to get all of them off with the clay, since most of that side of the truck has water marks on it, but the clay definitely works.
     
  20. red

    red New Member

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    [​IMG]

    Thanks for the tip.
     
  21. Morgan06

    Morgan06 New Member

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    My nga.

    Glad it worked even if it will take a while. Please make the check out to "NYG Defensive Coordinator Fund".
     
  22. red

    red New Member

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    Screw that. I enjoy watching you suffer. :mamoru:


    But thanks for the help :h5:
     
  23. Run N. Gun

    Run N. Gun Active Member

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    Don't forget, you can wash with vinegar and water to help remove water spots.
     
  24. red

    red New Member

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    Yeah, that was plan b.
     

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