oxidation on 1991 crx si

Discussion in 'That'll Buff Right Out' started by crazy__mike, Mar 13, 2002.

  1. crazy__mike

    crazy__mike Guest

    I have a sun roof that has seen better days. I have a large white spot in the middle and I can't remember the last time the car was wax. What wax should I use. Do I just need to wash the car and then wax it. Do I need to place something on after the wax, or is it okay just to wax it and let it alone. I don't know anything about detailing cars so anything would help. I know about car performance, so its time to learn about detailing.

    What brand of wax should I use?
    What brand of soup should I use?
    Any other products that I'm forgoting.

  2. crazy__mike

    crazy__mike Guest

    Just read scot's detailing post.
    Thanks for the help, I'll let you know if I have any questions.
  3. Scottwax

    Scottwax The Detailing EDU is stickied in the Detailing for Moderator

    May 5, 2000
    Likes Received:
    Home of the Texas Rangers
    First things first--why did you let it get so bad? Did you buy it that way and it was the previous owner who neglected it? Just curious as to why some people wait until the paint is like chalk before they decide to do something about it.

    1) Unless you are willing to spend some serious time every couple of months keeping your paint up, don't waste your time and money doing anything about it now. Bringing back the shine and then not waxing it at least every two months, and you will be right back where you started.

    2) Look at the product list-lots of product recommendations. I would suggest you use either Meguiars or 3Ms professional lines to restore the paint, and then protect it with a high end wax-Meguiars #26, Pinnacle Paste Glaz or Sovereign, Zainos, Klasse.

    3) When working the paint, just do a small area at a time-about 18" x 18" and work the polish or compound into the paint until it looks nearly clear and dry, then buff off the excess. I use terry cloth towels folded into 1/8ths so I can apply even pressure, then refold to a clean spot for every new section. You may get some streaking or an uneven look, in that case, go back over the area and work in the shade. Once the polish or compound has eliminated the oxidation, then you want to further smooth the paint with a swirl remover, and use it the same way as the polish. You should probably go over the car twice with a swirl remover. After that, use a light glaze-they have minimal abrasives and a lot of feeder oils to restore shine. After that, then you can wax. I usually go over a freshly waxed car with a quick detailer to make sure all excess residue is gone.

    If the paint has a gritty feel after the first pass of polish/compound, then use a detail clay to get rid of the imbedded grime and contamination. You want to polish first in this case so the oxidation does not contaminate the clay bar.

    4) Two to three weeks after the initial restoration, go back over the car with the swirl remover and light glaze, then wax again, and again after about 5-6 weeks. After that, then probably every two months with just the glaze and wax and the paint should continue to look good.

    5) Stay away from gas station touch free car washes. They use harsh chemicals to remove dirt without resorting to brushes. Either hand wash your car at home using car wash soap, or at a self serve car wash and supply your own car wash soap and don't use their brushes.

    I recommend you go to www.meguiars.com and see where in your area you can purchase Meguiars professional products and get the following:

    From Meguiars Body Shop Pro line:

    Dual Action Cleaner/Polish-starts off strong and the cleaning agents break down into a polish.

    Swirl Free Polish-an excellent swirl remover. Has some light abrasive properties, but like DAC/P, it also has dimishing abrasives.

    Hand Polish-a very light glaze with lots of feeder oils.

    Those should be sufficient to bring back even stubborn oxidiation, but if your paint is real bad, you may need Diamond Cut Compound. Despite what they say on the product, you can get good results by hand, but if you are confident in your abilities to use a buffer, then go ahead and use one--just remember than a product like Diamond Cut has some serious cutting power and when combined with a buffer can go right through even a thick coat of paint if you are not careful.
  4. crazy__mike

    crazy__mike Guest

    Thanks for your help with this

    Believe it or not, I got the car about 8 months ago, and every month I use to wax the car with turtle wax. I was it every saterday, to keep the rust away. Over all the car is looking good, but it has some oxiy problems, that I would like to take care of. SO I went out today and purchased the goodies that you said would help, I just need to pick up the cloth towls and I'll be good to go.

    Thanks again for your help:bowdown: :bowdown:

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