Need a New Chain for my 04 GSXR 600

Discussion in 'OT Driven' started by DJMunich, Oct 18, 2004.

  1. DJMunich

    DJMunich American Eurotrash

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    Check out the old chain:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    So, on a scale of 1-10, 10 being the worst, how bad is that chain?

    Obviously I'm gonna need a new one in the near future, so I figure why not just go aftermarket? From what I can gather, the two respectable manufacturers of chains are DID & RK, correct?

    Here are the questions I need some help answering:

    1) I've heard a lot about a 520 conversion kit... I'm clueless. Clue me in. Advantages & Disadvantages?
    2) I'm thinking about changing out the rear sprocket along with the new chain (assuming it's a necessity). I've learned my stock sprocket has 45 teeth. I don't want a pure stunt bike, but with my fat a55, my bike comes up in 2nd, but it takes a hell of a lot of work. Would a 50 tooth sprocket make it a little more wheelie happy?
    3) My bike's shop manual says the standard drive chain is "RK525SMOZ7" I'm assuming that means it's got 525 links, right?

    Anyway, I just need someone to throw a package together for me, something a little more wheelie happy (not insane - still pretty good on the highway), but something that'll last me a while too. I'd like to spend about $200 max for the chain & sprocket together... If anyone knows somebody that can hook it up, let me know.

    Also, should I just have Gemini put it on for me? Looking at my shop manual it looks like I definately can't do it myself...

    Again, any advice is appreciated. If you can answer my questions, and/or even throw a package together for me, that's even better, and greatly appreciated! :bowdown:

    TIA,

    -DJMunich :)

    CLIFFS: Need a new chain for my 2004 GSXR 600 - help me choose. Thx :)
     
  2. GCEX

    GCEX Drifting Along

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    Dude, you just got the bike. :eek: Honestly, how many times did you lube the chain? I keep my bike outdoors, but I always lube the chain after every 2nd or 3rd ride.
     
  3. DJMunich

    DJMunich American Eurotrash

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    I don't lube it that much... but probably not enough either.

    I've got 7,500 miles on it; both the chain & the bike... :wiggle:
     
  4. GCEX

    GCEX Drifting Along

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    Damn, you're having fun on that thing. I'm no expert on bikes, I've only had mine since December.

    My $0.02: the chain isn't slack, there's still a long way it can be adjusted, it's just showing signs of rust. Try cleaning & lubing the chain. The manual says to use kerosene to clean the chain, but I don't know where the fuck I can purchase kerosene, so I use WD-40 and it works pretty well. Let the WD-40 dry/evaporate some and then throw on the chain lube.

    I had a bit of rust on one link on my chain, but it went away after I did that. It'll take some elbow grease but it's better than spending money you don't need to spend.
     
  5. DJMunich

    DJMunich American Eurotrash

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    Yeah I'm riding the hell out of it... shit with the mileage-independant warranty, I don't give a fock! :nikko:

    Anyway, I'll try that tomorrow :)

    Thanks GCEX.

    On another note, by posting the same exact 1st post in a couple other forums, I learned a lot about sprockets & chains... and probably will be switching out my chain & sprockets for a 530 chain w/ -1 tooth up front, and oem 45 tooth setup in the rear, for easier wheelies...

    Well see what happens :)
     
  6. dontothejuan

    dontothejuan New Member

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    no your chain does not have over 500 links. look at your chain and how large the links are, do you really think that your bike has over 500 links in it. chaain has like 120 links cmon dont ask stupid questions. also dont go up 5 teeth in the rear. go down 3 in the front
     
  7. dontothejuan

    dontothejuan New Member

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    sorry not 3 but 2 in the front
     
  8. dontothejuan

    dontothejuan New Member

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    sprocketcenter.com
     
  9. oakie

    oakie my ninja.

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    about a 1.5

    looks like you've got surface rust. surface rust is not a very good indicator of the chain's actual condition. ke others have said, get it good with a rag and some WD-40. Wipe it completely dry after cleaning then apply the Maxima to the inside of the chain and let dry. it doesnt need to be heated or spun after application.


    520 chain is a smaller/lighter chain. the "5" means eighths of an inch ebtween the pins, and 20 is eighths link width. because it's essentially thinner than the stock 530 chain, it is therefore lighter and a bit more responsive. the drawbacks to a 520 chain are decreased longevity of the chain and sprocket. 520's stretch faster and the teeth on the thinner sprocket will wear faster. your stock chain should last you at least 15,000 miles with proper care. honestly, there's little difference that you'll feel just from the chain... and wouldnt be worth doing unless your stock chain is in need of replacement anyways, or you plan on swapping gear ratios.

    the key is usually 3 up in the rear = 1 dropped in the front. to go up in the rear is safer than dropping teeth in the front as the reduced diameter in the front increases chain angle and therefore, wear. combining 1 in the front with 3 in the rear will give you a REALLY snappy response, much like your 5 up rear idea. if you're not looking to stunt, you dont need to go that far. 2-3 up in the rear should give you the response you're looking for without making 1st gear completely useless.

    besides, if you want wheelies, you should be clutching them up for better control anyways, and if you're actually skilled, you should be able to snatch up a ninja 250... you shouldnt rely on gearing or you'll end up looping it quickly.

    check out the RK chain website.
     
  10. mnewell

    mnewell Lucy.

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    Drift speaks the truth...
     

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