My new (to me) 2003 Audi A4 1.8TQ

Discussion in 'OT Driven' started by V, Jul 5, 2005.

  1. V

    V Corrupt and Immoral

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    [​IMG]
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    2003 A3 1.8T quattro
    Black w/ black leather
    Moonroof
    Bose premium sound w/6cd in dash changer
    Xenons
    Cold weather package

    i like it. paint needs some work. ive already had like a million people say to chip it in the main forum.

    you guys know anything about brakes. thinking id like to replace the ones i have but i wouldnt know how to do it myself. whats the best way to go about doing that? and what kind of brakes should i get?

    questions, comments, input all welcome :)
     
  2. Y2kAccord

    Y2kAccord Everything happens for reasons I just dont know

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    Dont those have fake leather in them? I read from several sources that Audi never offered "leather" in the 1.8T till the B7's came out. They call it Buffalino or something like that.
     
  3. MrBucket

    MrBucket OT Supporter

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    buffalino is the leather i believe

    b5 1.8t had vinyl, b6 could get leather

    thats one reason i got the 2.8 b5 over the 1.8t
     
  4. V

    V Corrupt and Immoral

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    uh i'm pretty sure its real leather. i mean, they call it leather on the spec sheet. i'd be surprised if they charged you $1,000+ for fake leather
     
  5. MrBucket

    MrBucket OT Supporter

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    nah thats leather, hes just confused with the b5
     
  6. Y2kAccord

    Y2kAccord Everything happens for reasons I just dont know

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    Even Edmunds on their road test of a 2002 A4 said that leather was not available on the 1.8T had to get the 2.8 for it
     
  7. SantorinA4

    SantorinA4 New Member

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    You could get it in the B6 1.8T platform. It was a separate package, though. The B5 1.8T didn't offer it.
     
  8. Doodie head

    Doodie head i have no legs

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    the center section of the seat is leather and the side bolsters are vinyl/fake leather, hence the name leather seating surfaces
     
  9. deusexaethera

    deusexaethera OT Supporter

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    Unless you want race-stoppers, you could probably get what you're looking for with a pad and rotor change. EBC makes good pads (ALWAYS buy metal pads, not fiber -- it slips when wet), but I had great luck with a set of "generic" titanium-compound pads that I got out of JC Whitney, of all places. Titanium doesn't permanently soften when heated, like iron does.

    If you replace the rotors too, get slotted ones; the slots let the microscopic dust escape from between the rotors and pads so it doesn't end up lubricating the surfaces similar to graphite powder. I think EBC makes those too.

    ---

    Replacing pads is fairly easy, if you have a C-clamp, a repair manual, and a torque wrench. Jack the car up, pop the wheel off, unbolt the caliper, and use the clamp to press the caliper piston back into its socket. It's okay if you put one side of the clamp on the outside of the piston and the other side of the clamp on the opposite-side brake pad; it doesn't matter if you damage the pads, because you're ditching them anyway.

    After the piston is pushed back as far as it will go willingly, slide the pads one at a time toward the middle of the slot where the rotor passes through and pull them out. Then put the new pads in the same way they came out. If one of the pads has a springy metal bit on it, make sure it's installed in the side of the caliper pointed AWAY from the wheel, or else it could catch the wheel and damage it. The springy metal bit is there to scrape against the rotor to tell you when the pads are worn out.

    When you bolt the caliper back on, MAKE SURE YOU KNOW HOW MUCH TO TORQUE THE BOLTS. Last thing you need is for the brakes to fall off when you use them. That's where the repair manual comes in handy; it should have those numbers listed somewhere in it.
     
  10. MrBucket

    MrBucket OT Supporter

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    the b6 never came with the 2.8, only the 3.0

    you have the b5 and b6 confused as well
     
  11. V

    V Corrupt and Immoral

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    interesting. ive never worked on a car at all, so im not so sure i'd be comfortable doing that without some supervision or help from someone. how much do you think the labor would cost if i had it done in a shop or at the dealership?
     
  12. deusexaethera

    deusexaethera OT Supporter

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    A pad and rotor swap? Probably a couple hundred for the parts and another fifty for the labor. I've only ever done it on a car with two discs, and it took me about 40 minutes total. Four discs would take twice as long, but of course a pro could do it faster. Still, fifty bucks is fifty bucks.

    I did it solo my first time. No help from anyone, even my father (who'd done it a couple dozen times). It worked just fine; no hangups at all. Good thing too; the old pads were thin as paper, literally. If I'd driven it to a shop I would have worn them completely off and destroyed the discs with the steel backing plates on the pads.
     
  13. ISO9002

    ISO9002 New Member

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    Sweet B5-A4, I like B5 better than the new one! :bigthumb:
     
  14. MrBucket

    MrBucket OT Supporter

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    holy shit can no one get this right?

    he has a b6


    b5 a4 is 96-01
    b5 s4 is 00-02
    b6 a4 is 02-05
    b7 a4 is 05.5 and up
     
  15. V

    V Corrupt and Immoral

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    :rofl: :bigthumb:
     
  16. Phil02E46

    Phil02E46 mystash.org

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    nice car, congrats :cool:
     
  17. integra707

    integra707 New Member

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    Sweet car!

    I have a b6 S4 and love it... it's my second Audi.
     
  18. ISO9002

    ISO9002 New Member

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    Thx, still couldnt get it right :bigthumb:
     
  19. black 3g

    black 3g Guest

    I have a B6 A4 3.0 and love it. You might want to check out www.audiforums.com. They have a bunch of information over there. Rotor swaps are relatively simple and shouldn't take you too long if you are mechanically inlcined.
     
  20. Dr. Woo

    Dr. Woo Guns don't kill people

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    Audi brakes are not fun to replace. At least the rear ones. The piston doesn't just "push in" as previously mentioned...they do push in, but at the same time, they turn, so a C-Clamp won't work alone...you'll need a C-Clamp and a monkey wrench or some other kind of wrench to turn it as well. Unless you feel like spending $100 for the special VAG part, which does make the job 150% easier.
     

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