Discussion in 'OT Driven' started by Light Speed, Jul 9, 2007.
at what # miles will the engine be broken in at
Most modern engines don't have "break-in periods", at least if you believe the owner's manuals. That said, be nice to it for the first 1000 miles, change the oil after that first 1000 miles, and use synthetic oil from there on out.
By the time you get your car the rings are pretty much seated in already so i wouldn't really worry about the break it. I would probably change the oil pretty soon after purcase though because there is always going to be some metal garbage and what not floating around after initial start. I wouldn't be hesitant about not flogging the car because chances are every lot attandant or transporter has already done that for you.
I remember when the Cobra R's came out in 2000. Alot of them were shiped to the terminal where my dad was a mecahnic. He had mutiple calls to the yard because guys were beating the fuck out of them. They blew 3 up before they could make it onto the trucks and many left with some pretty bald tires.
Damn if i was that dealer i would not take delivery of those, who ever signs off on that paperwork when they are dropped at the dealer is then responsible for any damage
You cannot possibly believe that it's good for an engine to be run hard when it's brand new.
How many Mustang threads do you start a week?
Not sure why you addressed the thread to Mustang people but... I've always taken it is easy for the first 1000 miles, changed the oil and then driven it "normally".
dealers don't always sign for them. Often the trucker drops em off and leaves em. Delivery can even take place at night, when the dealership is closed.
um, it's called seating the piston rings... it requires WOT under load.
Dude most dealers don't give a fuck at all. The PDI guy signs off on them and he gets paid by the hour. He could care less what the hell they get off thoes trucks. And management has their head so far up their asses they never pay attention to shit like that.
That's what I say aloud to many of your posts. Agressive throttle inputs expedite ring seating, genius....
The rings will seat regardless of how much load you put on the engine during break-in, and in fact you want them to wear as smoothly as possible instead of chattering against the cylinder walls under heavy load. Not to mention, you WILL damage the crank and rod bushings if you go WOT during break-in, because the metal shavings will get crushed between mating surfaces before they can be flushed out by the engine oil.
Before you tell me I'm full of shit, I don't know a single person who's ever heard of driving any kind of car hard during the first thousand miles. I even went out and specifically asked people with all different kinds of cars yesterday after seeing this thread, from Honda Accords to classic Corvettes, and they all said you guys are totally full of shit. I looked online too -- I used the search term "proper engine break-in" -- and I saw, from motorcycle engines to car engines to generators to airplane engines, the exact same recommendation: run the engine under the lightest reasonable load, and change the oil after 1000 miles or 12 hours of continuous use. (The only exception was airplane engines, which recommended full-throttle to get off the ground, then power reduction to minimum cruising speed as soon as possible. The reasons for this should be obvious.)
As for myself and my family, we've never gotten less than 200kmi out of an engine except when the car got totaled in an accident -- all without a single rebuild.
Goddamn you people are backward. I bet you think you're safer not wearing your seatbelts too, because you can slide across the bench seat in case you're about to get broadsided. (I actually know a guy who insists his father is alive because of this. He's from Bumblefuck USA and full of shit, too.)
I give up. Have fun fucking up your perfectly-good engines.
yes i know how it works, i work at a dealer, Im still supposed to check them over for damage. Ive scratched brand new cars, and just ignored it and let them pass.
I know many people who beat the shit out of the car during the "break in" ranging from 03-04 cobras to vettes, to full out drag cars. In fact one of my friends with a full out drag car asked his engine builder about this exact thing. The builders response "WOT as soon as everything is warmed up and if you hurt anything I'll rebuild it free." MY friend has killed lots of trans, no motors. The rings need pressure to seat....
yea, every tech that I trust has told me to drive it during break in exactly how you're gonna drive it for the rest of it's service life. I drive my vehicles hard -- and they all recommend I do that right off the lot.
That’s what I have heard and followed as well. I remember a debate on Tech about this that went for a good while. The general consensus was that there honestly is no set standard for proper engine break in procedure. The only thing that everybody agreed on was that fact that an engine should be broke in on a non constant rpm level. To fully seat the rings, the rpm level should be varied.
We usually let them idel for a short while, throw a drivable tune in the car, and drive them around for the while at a non constant rpm. If everything is ok, it goes right onto the dyno for tuning at WOT. Never had any motors that were broken in like that fail and the majority of these guys are spraying the fuck out of thoes motors with 250+ shot.
hey, leave the 4L out of this.... he's used to the 1.8L engines. hahahaha
deusexaethera should never post in any car related thread ever again
Varied RPM level is very important as well (so no long trips with a constant engine speed).
The fact is that most of the dealers and shit have fed lies to the people who buy cars, most of which happen to be completely ignorant. This has spread over the years and deus and all his friends are a perfect example. Many engines are already run for a while before hitting the showroom floor, so yes, many people can easily get away with thinking that you should baby the car and not get over 50 mph or 3k rpms or some bullshit like that. But for the people that actually know what they're doing, what we've said is the PROPER way to break in an engine. Anyone with half a brain or any knowledge about engines could put two and two together to figure this out.
FYI 2003 and 2004 SVT Mustang Cobras were broken in by the factory.
How I break in a motor: Assembly/purchase of vehicle, then run it hard for 20 miles or so, change the oil, then drive it normally.