Muscle car crew, help me build an engine

Discussion in 'OT Driven' started by quakefiend420, Jan 15, 2008.

  1. quakefiend420

    quakefiend420 If you can read this, you're too close

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    i'm biulding my first chevy 350 engine with my little bro, and turns out a head is cracked, it has 462624 heads on it, which, after a little research, seem to be crap anyway...so now we're trying to decide how we should be building this motor...i'd like it to be reliable, but still have a decent amount of power...

    no boost is planned
    block is undecked so far as i know, has been bored .060 over
    we haven't gotten into tearing the bottom end down yet, that comes tomorrow...
    already have an edelbrock performer intake and 1406 600cfm carb that's almost brand new
    accel distributor that's also almost brand new

    i'd like to use as much of what i already have as possible, although i realize i may end up replacing something

    we have no idea what the cam is yet, or the pistons or anything else on the bottom end, just that they're flat-tops with valve indentions

    if you were given a budget of 1K "or so" for parts(don't include stuff like plugs, fluids, gaskets etc...small stuff), what would you do with this motor for the best mix of reliability and performance?

    is a port and polish on the intake and heads feasible for a couple guys that aren't idiots that have a dremel and know how to use it? or should we just forget about it, because i don't think at this level it will justify the cost of having it done...

    EDIT: budget has been bumped to 1400USD
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2008
  2. quakefiend420

    quakefiend420 If you can read this, you're too close

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    this thread is going to fail horribly :o

    novtecnocare :hs:
     
  3. KiddX

    KiddX Tigth as Piston In Ferrari Engine!

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    you should put like, pistins n shit in it. and maybe one of those camshafts
     
  4. KiddX

    KiddX Tigth as Piston In Ferrari Engine!

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    oh oh and vtek!
     
  5. Oriion

    Oriion Active Member

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    order some overnight parts from harries, and get 2 of the big ones!
     
  6. bomberboy

    bomberboy New Member

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    Theres a lot of things you can do for free. Chamfer the oil holes on the crankshaft, ect.

    As for money wise is the bore fresh? If no plan on just refreshing the engine. You said it was .60 over? Hopefully it's good.


    You can try porting/polishing your shitty heads as they're. Heads are where you will pick up the most power. A nice set of aluminum heads will pick you up nice power-which is what I'd do if the bore, ect is good. Otherwise plan on dropping most your money in rebuilding the engine to good specs.
     
  7. MAD PUNK inDC

    MAD PUNK inDC Sic Semper Tyrannis

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    if you already have the block .60 over, I would suggest picking up a budget 3.75" stroker crank, set of 6" rods, and 4.060 pistons. This should give you a great rod/stroke ratio, good torque, and a displacement of about 388 cubes. Combine this with a set of decent cast iron heads such as Dart IIs,, and port match your intake manifold, and you should easily see a combination that will give you over 430hp on pump gas.
     
  8. bomberboy

    bomberboy New Member

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    This is going to go way over his budget. Even an Ebay kit would be more than that.
     
  9. quakefiend420

    quakefiend420 If you can read this, you're too close

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    one is cracked, badly enough to be seen with the naked eye...so it's pretty well fucked...and 76 cc combustion chambers ftl anyway
     
  10. quakefiend420

    quakefiend420 If you can read this, you're too close

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    that's one thing i forgot to mention, i'd like to stay on pump gas...
     
  11. bomberboy

    bomberboy New Member

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    What is cracked? A piston? Hopefully the bore is good, otherwise you may need to get it sleeved. The engine may end up being a junker.
     
  12. quakefiend420

    quakefiend420 If you can read this, you're too close

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    it's got about 9K miles on it, however i dunno how long it went with the head pouring coolant into that one cylinder...the walls look a little rough(under a shitty droplight at midnight, so who knows)...we're gonna try to sand it a bit with 2K grit and see how it looks tomorrow...hopefully the block is still good as is, we'll see
     
  13. quakefiend420

    quakefiend420 If you can read this, you're too close

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    a head
     
  14. jdhommert

    jdhommert OT Supporter

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    I'd recommend against porting the heads yourself.
     
  15. bomberboy

    bomberboy New Member

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    Ohhh. Good luck with that. There are short block 350s on ebay for $899 shipped. Rebuilt, ect. Just need your intake manifold/carb/oil pan/all your accessories. May end up being the best bet.
     
  16. MAD PUNK inDC

    MAD PUNK inDC Sic Semper Tyrannis

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    Not really. Dart IIs ( think they are called Sportsman IIs now by World) should only cost about $400 assembled. A budget rotating assembly should run about another $500-$600. Thats most of the major stuff. Problem is going to be the nickle and dime junk that goes into an engine like that (flexplate, balencer, oil pan/pump, ect) and the machining along with it. $1000 can be done taking a cheaper route like using the included rotating assembly, but I highly recamend a tear down and inspection of all parts, and matching the heads, intake, and cam so you don't end up with a big inch dog.
     
  17. bomberboy

    bomberboy New Member

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    Wow haven't seen any of the Dart II's. Seems like they're pr etty good deals. Summit Racing seems to have decent budget heads as well.
     
  18. quakefiend420

    quakefiend420 If you can read this, you're too close

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    what's the deal with hypereutectic pistons?
     
  19. quakefiend420

    quakefiend420 If you can read this, you're too close

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    i already have a new flexplate, the oil pan and pump should be good, although i was thinking about an electric just to try and make it run forever :o

    harmonic balancer should be fine as well, unless there's a reason i need to change it due to changing internals
     
  20. MAD PUNK inDC

    MAD PUNK inDC Sic Semper Tyrannis

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    great for NA applications, works okay with a light spray if you get some good quality units. Wouldn't use them for boosted or heavy nitrous use though. They don't expand and contract as much as forged units, so they are quieter, and less prone to blowby.

    on a similar note, I highly suggest using Total Seal rings. I've seen many dyno examples over the years showing they can be good for an extra 5+hp across the entire rpm range, while contributing to better vac, and less blow by as well.
     
  21. quakefiend420

    quakefiend420 If you can read this, you're too close

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    any advantage for a NA motor with no nitrous? or should i put the money elsewhere?

    and i'll keep the total seal rings in mind, thx for the tip
     
  22. MAD PUNK inDC

    MAD PUNK inDC Sic Semper Tyrannis

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    you should at least do an inspection and cleaning of the oil pump to be on the safe side and see if you need a rebuild. Check to see if it's within tolerance with a feeler guage. You won't really need a high volume or high pressure unit. The standard SBC oil pump was pretty damn good to begin with.

    With the flex plate and balancer, you might need to have these balanced if you move to a different rotating assembly, though most SBC's are internally balanced, so there is a chance you can still use the same units.
     
  23. jdhommert

    jdhommert OT Supporter

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    If you know for a fact that you will never, ever boost or bottle the engine, hyperutectic's will be ok, but if you think you may bottle/boost it, definatley spend the cash to forge at least the pistons while its out.

    If I knew i wasn't going to do these, i'd do a high compression lightweight build. Although this is going to be way out of your budget anyway.
     
  24. quakefiend420

    quakefiend420 If you can read this, you're too close

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    ok, i'm getting mixed reactions here...let's say the budget was bumped to 1400...what does that change?
     
  25. quakefiend420

    quakefiend420 If you can read this, you're too close

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    problem is, later, i may get bored :embd:
     

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