Motorcycle Break-in: How do you guys do it?

Discussion in 'OT Driven' started by Wobistdu, Jan 30, 2009.

  1. Wobistdu

    Wobistdu Guest

    What type of bike do you have?
    How did you break it in?

    I have my m109r sitting in the garage awaiting breakin. I'm debating on following the manufacturers recommendation on breakin or putting it under load.
     
  2. LiveSideways

    LiveSideways Two bitches at the same time, synchronized swimmer

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    I've done the few new bikes I've had the same way... Avoid constant RPMs, lots of variations from load to no load, basically ride it like I would normally just dont cruise at a certain RPM. Granted this is only for the first hundred miles then after that I change oil and it's game on.
     
  3. Wobistdu

    Wobistdu Guest

    yeah i think i'm gonna give it some hell out of the box. i don't like that baby it for 100 miles shit. she needs to see 4,000-5,000 rpms for sure (1800cc vtwin)
     
  4. Coottie

    Coottie BOOMER......SOONER OT Supporter

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    What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ?? The Short Answer: Run it Hard !
    http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

    I didn't follow this guys method exactly but I remember reading this and thinking, just ride it like you would normally and ride it hard. I did and I'm happy with how things are progressing so far.
     
  5. mtnbikekid08

    mtnbikekid08 Aime-moi moins, mais aime-moi longtemps

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    Call the manufacturer, and see what they recommend.
    Do what they recommend, because IMO they know what is best.
    And while running a bike hard for break-in may see no adverse affects at first, you may see shorter lifespan of engine components, worse gas mileage or other things.
    If you don't want to call the manufacturer, just take it easy on the bike. Short-shift to keep RPM's down, and don't go too fast.
     
  6. BKhAH

    BKhAH OT Supporter

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    dosen't matter, run it hard.
     
  7. Eviloliv3

    Eviloliv3 New Member

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    the bikes are tuned typically perfectly for the parts that are on it. no worries about wrong fuel ratios. Run it hard, after 100 miles change oil to get metal debris out. change again at regular manufacturer specs

    i changed mine at 100, 400, 4000 and still pulls hard
     
  8. flynfrog

    flynfrog Cool isnt Cheap

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    on a factory engine they are loose enough to do pretty much what ever you want.

    My race engines are heat cycled different amounts to seat the rings
     
  9. Wobistdu

    Wobistdu Guest

    yeah it seems with modern maching techniques and the way cylinders are now honed, it's best to give them some serious rpms to get those damn seals seated right

    i'll let this baby see 5,000 rpms in the first 20 miles for sure
     
  10. mtnbikekid08

    mtnbikekid08 Aime-moi moins, mais aime-moi longtemps

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    This is why I don't like buying used bikes.
     
  11. Eviloliv3

    Eviloliv3 New Member

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    :mamoru:

    I let mine see 14,000
     
  12. mtnbikekid08

    mtnbikekid08 Aime-moi moins, mais aime-moi longtemps

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    250.:mamoru:
    Mine only goes up to 11,000.
    5k is what I do on the highway or the twisties.
     
  13. Wobistdu

    Wobistdu Guest


    why
     
  14. Wobistdu

    Wobistdu Guest

    well guys mine is a gigantic vtwin. red line is 7500. it generates max hp at like 5,000 rpms. :rofl:

    the hp increase from 5k to 7500k is like 5hp :bowrofl:
     
  15. Formula-95

    Formula-95 2:32 PM 5-13-09 Never Forget, Hamburglar OT Supporter

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    tell me...why do you want to avoid constant rpm's?
     
  16. Wobistdu

    Wobistdu Guest


    you gotta take the engine through the paces. vary the speed and rpms. lots of slowing down and pulling out. let the engine do a lot of the braking
     
  17. mtnbikekid08

    mtnbikekid08 Aime-moi moins, mais aime-moi longtemps

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    Because I don't know if it was properly broken in.
     
  18. Wobistdu

    Wobistdu Guest


    well you go by the manufacturer... which most mechanics prove is wrong. i read somewhere that yamaha once recommended letting a snowmobiler idle for 15min before you use it. problem is at 15min, the exhaust would melt the rear lights.

    so it goes to show that they are often wrong.
     
  19. Wobistdu

    Wobistdu Guest

    today's technology in engines is unreal. the old myth of a new engine being "too tight" or whatever is old and busted. the engines are ready to fucking rock out of the crate.
     
  20. igotyofire

    igotyofire New Member

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    ya thats why there is all those metal shavings in your first oil change. Look they spend the time to R&D , and lots of money goes into this(and theyre in the business of making money). Ofcourse they got a warranty to cover so this may cover some quality control issues, But for the most part I'd stick to it with slight decression. I can easily put on a couple hundred miles a day depending where im riding & It wont take that long to get past the break in period anyways. Remember your engine isn't the only thing breaking in here too....clutch More importantly & tranny.
     
  21. igotyofire

    igotyofire New Member

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    various loads & pressues should help seat the piston rings
     
  22. Eviloliv3

    Eviloliv3 New Member

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    idle to 8k its like a 500, 8k-14k it screams like a motherfucker

    first time i nailed it i almost fell off the bike with how hard it pulled

    95hp on a 423lb bike FTW

    ibgetliterbike
     
  23. Wobistdu

    Wobistdu Guest

    u see that fucking zx14? 208hp :rofl:
     
  24. Wobistdu

    Wobistdu Guest

    yeah i'm not gonna beat on it. but the manual is like "don't exceed 3500rpms in the first 100 miles" i think that's a bit weak.
     
  25. mtnbikekid08

    mtnbikekid08 Aime-moi moins, mais aime-moi longtemps

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    No, it's called short-shifting and I do it all the time. I almost never hit more than 4 grand on typical street-riding, except in the twisties.
     

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