Discussion in 'OT Technology' started by Phrogg, Jun 10, 2005.
Need a little bass, not overkill at all.
Would an infinity basslink be good enough?
It's a sedan
I'd recommend you stay away from the bass link. I've always hated them. A nice 8" or 10" sub and small (150W) amp should be sufficient.
look for an audiobahn 10 inch powered bass tube... i threw one in my mustang and it has enough thump to be heard a good few hundred feet away (versus not being able to hear any bass outside the car when it was stock)... for ~$250 you cant go wrong...
i've worked on a couple 3s in the last couple months... i remember doing a single 12 powered by an mtx amp that sounded great.
WORST idea EVER!
Please do some more research and get a little more experience before making recommendations here. For $250 you can go wrong in this situation.
In a dissenting opinion to jollyogre (often), I think for a person that is looking to just round out their bottom end a little bit, doesn't want to spend a lot of money, and is new to aftermarket car audio, the infinity basslink is a great idea.
Until a month or so ago I had never heard one, but many people on vwvortex.com have them and gave rave reviews. I heard one playing at my store (CC, yes most of the stuff we carry I would not install in my car) and asked the car audio salesman what sub was playing because it sounded better than most of the stuff they usually play. He pointed down to the small 10" infinity basslink. I say go for it.
i had the same delima, and through a friend and bestbuy i got a hookup:
10' Alpine Type-R $94
Alpine 700W Class D Bridgeable Mono MOSFET Amplifier (350 watt @ 2ohm) $114
and i couldn't be happier, it sounds great, not too much nor to little. And it was cheep
a soundsplinter RL-i 8" sub can fit in a .2net displacement box and sound amazing needs 150-350watts @2ohm and you'll be golden
i'm sure it sounds good.
I agree. The basslink will do a good job of filling in most of the bottom end on all types of recordings. It doesn't produce that in-your-face 'slam' that bigger woofers provide, but it is surprisingly punchy, and stays musical even when you crank it.
My only gripe? It won't hit the lowest notes of some of those synth-bass recordings these days, but it does a great job. Plus it should integrate well with a factory setup. Go for it!
at risk of being flamed cause i'm a n00b, the basslink isn't bad, nor is the audiobahn tube. both are amplified and if i recall both have speaker level inputs. Note: NEITHER WILL PROVIDE THE AUDIOPHILE QUALITY THAT SOME OT'ers DESIRE, they may provide the bottom end that YOU are looking for, just go listen to some, take your favorite cd, and listen to how the units perform. It's all about what you're looking for, so if they work for you, then go for it.
Not because you're a "n00b", but because the majority opinion is that audiobahn is a sub-par brand. Infinity is not.
Oh, that reminds me, I was talking to an installer at my store two days ago and he mentioned he was about to put in a $6000 system in his car. So, I asked him what it was, and he said "pretty much all kicker". Ok, we get like 60% or more off kicker products through our discount so it's gonna cost him a fraction of the price, whatever. Then he says he is going to put in a 12-farad audiobahn cap. He sure was pissed off after I took the time to explain to him that yes it will fix his light dimming, but it's basically a waste of money otherwise. I don't think he likes me anymore.
I'm with you on the Audiobahn thing. Don't like them personally, but I thought that for the price ($250) sub/amp/box all in one, it gives satisfactory performance for most of the average joe customers. (I think i covered the most non-discriminating customers) Oh, and tell your installer not to do his solos ported, cause with the 1200.1 he's gonna use to power them and a 12 farad audiobahn cap, he's going to blow them. I promise. Been there done that way too many times.
What would the cap have to do with anything? But, I don't think I'll let him know, because for one I don't really care for the guy, and two, it would be funny.
not enough voltage....even with the cap. that's gonna need an upgraded alternator and a heavy battery. those big kicker amps draw a LOT of current.
You mean not enough current I assume, but yea, I know. That's why I'm asking why you mentioned the cap, because the cap won't really make a difference. You do know that most all car audio caps don't work as adverstised, right?
you do realize that a cap does *NOTHING* for "upping" voltage. The only thing a cap can do positively is to compensate for quick dips. And most people use caps in situations where the dip is too long and then the cap quickly becomes more of a hinderance than a help because you must recharge it.
yeah, fully aware of that one. i had to be broken of the habit when i started at a "real" custom shop. I thought caps were great...yeah i was wrong. helpful in some situations, but not many. I am a fan of the Batcaps, tho. I ran 3 X300's on a 1000BD in my truck, and they worked well til i tried to run headlights, A/C, wipers, stereo all at once and locked up my alternator. (it was stock, i was just getting by for the time being, waiting for a hi output model) But, I agree with you on the cap thing
it's an either or thing. drop voltage-draw more current, drop current-draw more voltage. and yes i do know that most don't work as advertised. that's a large misconception that i have seen, even among some "well-trained" folks.