Masking a car...

Discussion in 'That'll Buff Right Out' started by Skoles, Jul 20, 2006.

  1. Skoles

    Skoles Guest

    I don't think it's really mentioned that much.

    - How do you properly do it and what tape do you buy?
    - Do you tape up just the rubber or include the emblems/sidemarkers too?
    - How long does it take you?
    - When you clean the trim, do you mask the surrounding paint beforehand?
     
  2. Buck-O

    Buck-O Guest

    1: The only decent tape worth buying IMHO, is the Scotch 3m Green High-Tack masking tape. Sticks to just about anything, and leaves no adhesive residue.

    1b: Masking is an acquired taste. I used to be an interior house painter. And did alot of high end work. Which required ALOT of masking. And as a result ive become very proficient at it, and can mask a perfectly straight line, and match just about any countour. Its just a mater of practice, taking your time, learning not to stretch the tape narrow, and learning how to work with it. Bestt hing to do is buy some cheaper masking tape (i still recemend the cheap tan Scotch 3m, becuase it doesnt leave adhesive residue), and mask the shit out of everything untill you learn how to run a tape line. I also recemend useing 2 inch masking tape for most car jobs, so it give you a git of room to work.

    2: Depends on the emblems and side markers. SOme emblems ill mask, others i wont. If it looks like it would be a pain in the ass to get your polish and wax out of, chances are it needs to be masked.

    3: Again, im a bad judge of this. Beucase i can whip out the masking on a car in less then 20 minutes most of the time. It will probibly take you well over a half our the first couple of times you do it. Again, practice, practice, practice...use the cheapy stuff, andmake it work for you. Then move to the nice hich tack green.

    4: No, personally i dont. Becuase the green high tack tape will likely peal any sealent or wax off with it. Hell, the tan stuff probibly would. And the Green/Orange low tack blue tape, is to fucking expensive to waste on a car. What i use for trim is an older water blade ive got. I take it and put it up to the trim line, and use it as a quick masker to get right up to the paints edge. Works well for me. I dont use it to dry anymore, so i might as well use it for somthing. Hehe.
     
  3. Skoles

    Skoles Guest

    Bonus question:

    How do you all thoroughly dry a car quickly? I use one of those Absorber™ towels and drag & dab it across the car (probably a bad thing). Opening the doors & trunk to get the pockets of water. But still I have the problem of water hiding in creases & trim only to rear it's ugly head when the towel of wax/polish goes by & sends a streak of beads down the car & dampening my rag.
     
  4. Buck-O

    Buck-O Guest

    Get a good waffle weave dryinf towel, and hit up the car in all of the water collection nooks and cranies. Typically, the MF will be able to wick the water out of the depressions, and channels without to much hastle.

    You can certaintly use the absorber in that way. But if there is still residual dirt on the car, such as that left behind by missing a spot on the car...you will be grinding that dirt into the paint. Best to use a waffle weave MF towel, that will pick up the dirst and keep it away from the paint.
     
  5. crazynova

    crazynova OT Supporter

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    Give me 2 good size Microfibers, and I can dry a complete car in around a minute...
     
  6. Beason

    Beason They call me "The Stig"

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    [​IMG]
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    blue tape works great on everything but rubber weather stripping, seems to have little grip on it.
     
  7. Scottwax

    Scottwax Making detailing great again! Moderator

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    Optimum No Rinse allows you to wash and dry a car very quickly and as an added bonus, almost no water left in the seams and trim.

    I normally don't mask a car off when using the Cyclo or PC, however, if the vehicle has trim I know is prone to hazing from polishing, I will tape off that trim. Never timed myself, 30 minutes or so?
     
  8. Buck-O

    Buck-O Guest

    Exactly.

    BLue tape is for medium low tack situationswhere you want less adhesion then with standrd masking tape.

    THe green high tack tape is for those areas where regular masking tape wont stick solidly. And was designed almost exclusively due to the demands of the automotice industrly (Such as the original msking tape was).

    One of the main reasons i use the green is becuase it will take the beating of the pad being on it. Where tan, and especially blue, will pull under the stress of the pad, and polish.
     
  9. BlazinBlazer Guy

    BlazinBlazer Guy Witness to The De-Evolution of Mankind.

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    :werd: I just pick up rolls of the green stuff (I think it's Scotch 233+) from the paint and body supply shop.
     
  10. RyRy

    RyRy Active Member

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    I :love: the blue tape as well :bowdown:
     

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