LT1 sages I seek your wisdom

Discussion in 'OT Driven' started by Possum Stomper, Mar 30, 2004.

  1. Possum Stomper

    Possum Stomper The Great Bird of the Galaxy

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    i am tired of 275 horsepower, what kind of NA mods can you do to an LT1 and stay within GM/SLP, mild or otherwise

    1994 Formula
    83k
    T56
    the previous owner put about 50 pounds of subwoofers in the back too :hs:

    merci beaucoup mes amis :bigthumb:
     
  2. lt1form

    lt1form New Member

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    KN fipk is a very noticable improvement, also cat back exhaust.
    Free mods are good too. check out cz28.com
     
  3. you know me

    you know me OT where the douchbags play

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    take that system out, LT4 heads/cams, exhaust, gears.
     
  4. Possum Stomper

    Possum Stomper The Great Bird of the Galaxy

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    :cool:

    what are some popular hed/cam combos in general?
     
  5. you know me

    you know me OT where the douchbags play

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    the LT4 heads/cams are popular, I think that LPE would be good, MTI, mallet if he sells them. ect
     
  6. Possum Stomper

    Possum Stomper The Great Bird of the Galaxy

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    i want an LS1 :wtc:
     
  7. Bad Mojo

    Bad Mojo Guest

    It's not staying within GM/SLP, but Lethal EFI claims the fastest N/A LT1, and from what I'm hearing on the boards makes custom cams with some pretty incredible numbers (known as the the "Joe O." cam). The web site isn't much (in fact, there's no links to anything) but from what I hear Joe is pretty friendly and very knowledgable, so might be worth a call?

    http://hometown.aol.com/one94ta2try/myhomepage/
     
  8. Possum Stomper

    Possum Stomper The Great Bird of the Galaxy

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    what kind of bore/stroke kits are out there, what is the maximum displacement that can be had out of an LT1?
     
  9. jeff2577

    jeff2577 OT OG

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    Ah come on Kevin, you know the LT4 package can be outdone by a set of LT1 heads for cheaper.

    Easiest upgrades to get more power, heads, cam headers and exhaust. Don't fuck around with the small stuff, just do it.

    Gears just give you the feel of more power. But are a good mod.
     
  10. you know me

    you know me OT where the douchbags play

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  11. Possum Stomper

    Possum Stomper The Great Bird of the Galaxy

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    how much of a pain in the ass is Opti-spark?
     
  12. Possum Stomper

    Possum Stomper The Great Bird of the Galaxy

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    interesting thread btw
     
  13. Bad Mojo

    Bad Mojo Guest

    Enough of a pain in the ass that most LT1 owners know odds are it's going to eventually need replaced unless you never drive in the rain. '95 and up LT1's had a vented optispark that is less likely to fail from getting wet, but the earlier LT1 wasn't vented and if it got wet, was usually shot. If you do ever need it replaced, I'd go with a later vented unit, here's a couple of sites detailing the swap:

    http://www.fierolt1.com/lt1_95_up_OptiReplace.htm

    http://para.noid.org/~muttvette/opti.html

    http://www.moreperformanceinc.com/optispar.htm

    http://www.fierolt1.com/lt1_9394OptiRepair.htm
     
  14. Supernoma

    Supernoma servus publicae OT Supporter

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    Bypass the engine coolant line in the throttle body. Not alot of power, but it's free and takes all of 30 mins. :)
     
  15. Possum Stomper

    Possum Stomper The Great Bird of the Galaxy

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    what does that do?

    speaking of intakes, how far is the stock one good for?
     
  16. Bad Mojo

    Bad Mojo Guest

    Probably the best description of the TB bypass mod I've seen, from 14u2nv on LS1tech.com:

    The LS1's throttle body is heated by the engine's coolant/antifreeze. There is a small coolant hose that brings hot coolant to the throttle body and another hose that continues from the throttle body to the engine. This was designed mainly for cold temperatures; to avoid the throttle body freezing. If you are in a fairly warm area year-round I would say it's not required. Being that you are up north and if you plan to drive your car in cold weather you may want to keep this feature connected at least during the cold months. You can do the bypass for the warm weather then switch back when it gets cold. The by-pass is really easy to do and very cheap. Whether or not the by-pass actually increases power is debatable, but as easy as it is to do and for the low cost...why not? Some guys have the theory of any cold air brought into the airbox via: RAM AIR, cold air induction kit, and/or free ram air mod will be heated as it passes through the hot throttle body. Take it as you will...but like I said, why not? Every little bit helps!
     
  17. Possum Stomper

    Possum Stomper The Great Bird of the Galaxy

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    opinions on shifters?
     
  18. Bad Mojo

    Bad Mojo Guest

    Roll the dice.

    Opinions are pretty split between the PRO 5.0 and the B&M Ripper.

    I have the B&M in mine just because I got a smokin' deal on it ($50 if I remember right, almost new). Before the deal came up I was really on the fence about it.

    One important consideration though is if you go with a 3rd party short stick (the LSS or the JSS), they only sell them for the PRO 5.0, not the B&M. I did get my JSS to mount to my B&M with no problems, but the shift to reverse was WAY the fawk out to the right, it even rubbed the console. I'm back to the stock B&M stick now.

    Is your car equipped with the factory Hurst? If so, some folks swear by the Hurst/Short stick combo. It was a noticeable improvement for me, but the B&M feels even better still.

    My last F-Bod was a '95 Z28, I used a B&M in it, *big* difference.

    Given the choice though, with no sweet deals, I would probably opt for the PRO 5.0, just for the short stick support.

    Before you buy either, keep an eye out on the for sale forums on LS1.com and LS1tech.com, you can usually pick 'em up much cheaper than retail. The shifters fit from 93-02 on both models, so it doesn't matter if it comes off an LS1 or an LT1.
     
  19. Prime Rib

    Prime Rib Guest

    IMO, motors should be built from the ground up. Installing Heads/cam on a stock motor without full exhaust and proper breathing capabilities is like building a House from the roof down....Those cars will make EXCELLENT power w/ a properly setup motor, but it requires air flow first..

    Start out with a full exhaust system from the motor back. A good set of headers, off road Y pipe and a good flowing catback with yeild 30+ RWHP or more which is roughly 50-60 crank HP. Headers for an LT1 can be had cheap these days, full exhaust is a VERY cost effective mod for those cars especially since the manifolds SUCK. Along with a cold air intake, you should be good to go with bolt ons. Most of the other small stuff really doesn't do much so I wouldn't waste my time..

    A full bolt on LT1 should keep you busy for a while. Most M6 cars w/ full exhaust make roughly ~300-315 rwhp, which with 15% drivetrain loss put you right at a 350-360 HP daily driven street car.

    I've build over 10 heads/cam motors and a couple of blower LT1 motors, feel free to shoot me an email if you have any questions..


    josh
     
  20. Possum Stomper

    Possum Stomper The Great Bird of the Galaxy

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  21. Jesse_Boyer

    Jesse_Boyer New Member

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    as said before, port the factory LT1 castings instead of buying LT4 stuff. Personally, port heads/intake, decent cam, full exhaust, K&N or equivilant, and spray it :).

    The stock bottom end will hold that if it's tuned right. Therefore, don't go mail order with mail order tuning as it's just a crap shoot anyway. Dyno tuning is the only way to go.
     
  22. Possum Stomper

    Possum Stomper The Great Bird of the Galaxy

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    just curious, what did/does everyones LT1 idle at?
     
  23. Possum Stomper

    Possum Stomper The Great Bird of the Galaxy

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    how hard are shifters to put on, dont you have to take the whole console off?
    that sounds like a pain in the ass
     
  24. Bad Mojo

    Bad Mojo Guest

    It's just taking out a few screws, and popping the e-brake close to a 90 degree angle (don't just pull on it, you can pop it up safely with a flathead screwdriver).

    Here's a walkthrough for you, took me about 20 minutes (not including the time it took for the liquid gasket to set). This is for a '99, but it should be pretty much the same:

    http://www.installuniversity.com/install_university/installu_pages/sophomore_year/shifter_install.htm
     
  25. Possum Stomper

    Possum Stomper The Great Bird of the Galaxy

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    what are the adjustible stops on the B&M Ripper all about?

    sorry i am asking so many questions, i hate going into something with little or no knowledge on the subject
     

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