A&P longer exposures?

Discussion in 'Lifestyle' started by IntheWorks, Jan 14, 2003.

  1. IntheWorks

    IntheWorks windin film.. takin pics Moderator

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    I have a cannon Rebel Ti..... it only has a setting to take 30 second exposures.... is there anyway I can take a longer exposure picture? I'm new to the 35mm world......
     
  2. one66stang

    one66stang Haters.com

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    look in your manual see if you have a featue called bulb. It means you hit the button and it opens and doesnt close till you hit the button again.

    On my N65 when in shutter mode roll the dial to the --- and thats bulb.
     
  3. Dnepr

    Dnepr Guest

    Love my camera :p



    why whould you need 30 sec exposure?
     
  4. fade

    fade tie your shoe bitch

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    but with bulb, you'll want to experiement a lot with diff apertures and shutter speeds, cause there is no way in hell you're gonna find the perfect exposure.

    unless you use a calculator :o
     
  5. Dnepr

    Dnepr Guest

    nm, on my previou post :)

    hehe
     
  6. Jcolman

    Jcolman OT Supporter

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    When you're using the "bulb" setting, you should also use a cable shutter release with a lock. This will allow you to lock the shutter open without having to touch the camera.

    Regarding long exposue times, it's always best to take multiple shots at varying exposure times. I would keep the aperture setting the same and vary the times. Remember film is cheap. Don't be afraid to shoot a whole roll.

    cheers
    Jim
     
  7. bioyuki

    bioyuki Ich habe Angst

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    Even better get a digital timer...most go anywhere from 1 sec to 99 hours. Sometimes the cable release interferes with autofocus and can still shake the camera a bit if not on a really sturdy tripod.
     
  8. Joe

    Joe 2015 :x: OT Supporter

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    some cameras, even the SLRs, they don't have the bulb setting... one way around it which i've found (i bought a really crappy digital one that didn't have the option for long exposure shots) is set the camera to locked apperature and let it figure out the exposure time, get a tripod, set it to timer, hold one hand 1 inch infront of the camera, push the shutter half way down to have it meter against the darkness of your hand, and then click, and move away... the timer will let the camera avoid shake and by metering the darkness of your hand, you fool the camera into thinking it needs to expose for longer than it needs...

    just something to try... play around with it too..
     
  9. Jcolman

    Jcolman OT Supporter

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    Turn off the autofocus. You don't want the focus to wander during a long exposure. You need to use a good tripod anyway to take any kind of long exposure shots. I've never had a cable release screw up a shot, but I've had my unsteady finger on the shutter release jiggle the camera.

    Cheers
    Jim
     
  10. bioyuki

    bioyuki Ich habe Angst

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    Ehh when the viewfinder is dark cause of a slower lens I tend to trust the AF more than manual focus :o.
     
  11. Joe

    Joe 2015 :x: OT Supporter

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    i can not think of a way a cable release will move a camera on a tripod unless you're using a really cheap tripod...

    MF > AF on my cameras, mainly cause my cameras don't have autofocus...
     
  12. TypeSDragoon

    TypeSDragoon Guest

    looks like you thought of a way :)

    (which is correct)
     
  13. Jcolman

    Jcolman OT Supporter

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    You don't want to look through the lens anyway during a long exposure. The risk of your head bumping the camera is too great.

    Then again, I've never used an autofocus camera....never found one as good as my hand/eye/brain.

    Cheers
    Jim
     
  14. bioyuki

    bioyuki Ich habe Angst

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    Dude...the modern AF systems from Nikon and Canon in conjunction with USM/AF-S lenses will blow your mind away. I can understand people wanting manual cameras but why would anybody want a manual focus camera nowadays?
     
  15. fade

    fade tie your shoe bitch

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    your mirror locks up?
     
  16. Jcolman

    Jcolman OT Supporter

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    Yes, I forgot about that little feature. Shows how long it's been since I took any time exposure shots with a still camera....duh!!!

    I'm use to using a motion picture camera more often than a still camera anyway. You can look through the lens during a time-laspe shot on a film camera....which you don't want to do because of the risk of bumping the camera.

    Cheers
    Jim
     
  17. 00soul

    00soul halfsharkalligatorhalfman

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    its kind of like cars. most will go for the easier automatic that will get the job done. but enthusiest will stick to the manual because they find it more rewarding and fun:bigthumb:
     
  18. bioyuki

    bioyuki Ich habe Angst

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    I understand your purist point of view but seriously, why would you ever want to MF? AF is faster, more accurate and works in lower light than a person focusing manually ever can. Other than lower battery consumption, name one advantadge to using manual focus.
     
  19. Jcolman

    Jcolman OT Supporter

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    1. The lenses are cheaper.
    2. You don't have a camera that's always trying to "second guess" your intentions. When shooting a sporting event, I will often prefocus my camera where the action will take place. I want the camera to stay focused where I put it.
    3. The lenses are lighter, which isn't a big deal until you spend all day lugging around several bags of equipment.
    4. The automatic lenses can be fooled by fog, dirt, something crossing the foreground, spray, etc.
    5. There is no lens that can think like a photographer. Give me a manual focus anyday.

    Cheers
    Jim
     
  20. bioyuki

    bioyuki Ich habe Angst

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    1. Some MF are just as or more expensive than AF lenses. For the most part they are because of the more costly construction.
    2. You can turn off all AF lenses with a flick of a switch. New AF lenses also have full time manual override if you're too lazy to flick the switch. I can use autofocus to prefocus and then either turn off AF or just hit the AF lock button. Hell it gets even better...with modern AF systems you don't even have to prefocus, just focus on the subject, the AF will lock onto it and just click the shutter. If you're using a CAM 1300 equiped Nikon or a Canon IV, Elan 7, EOS 3, at least 75% of your shots should be in focus. Just hold the shutter half way down and click when you want to.
    3. :rofl: MF lenses are much heavier than their AF counterparts usually because they're built in the old school way with heavier, damped zoom rings. Remember nowadays the AF motor is just a simple, light ring mechanism
    4. Pick up an F5 or a IV and use it. See #1.
    5. Now you're confusing lens tech with body tech. Canon has a thing (eye control focus?) now where it detects where your eye is looking in the viewfinder and will adjust AF point automatically. You can turn it off of course. In Nikon cameras you can select each AF point individually with a little joypad. In Canon's system, it'll select a few points out of the 45 point array or you can select the point individually. Cameras these day predict what you'll be thinking ;).

    In conclusion AF > MF.
     
  21. Joe

    Joe 2015 :x: OT Supporter

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    most of the new AF lenses that i've used don't have depth of field marked on the lens... makes it kind of a pain in the ass to focus. but i've also been limited to just a few AF lenses from skool...

    anyone else see that article on the guy suing the german camera company or something in the business section of the LA times today? i found it hilarious that they determined that he was violating the laws of physics trying to focus at all aperatures...

    how exactly do the nikon matrix focus work? i've read about them but I still don't understand how they can manipulate 9 or so points and force a lens to focus at different lengths, especially if you're going to try and do a really shallow and deep image...

    another argument for manual focus, i've yet to see a large format camera with auto focus... manipulating the plane of exposure is fun...

    (just came to me cause i got to play with an 8x10 today in class)
     
  22. bioyuki

    bioyuki Ich habe Angst

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    Yeah manfacturers are getting lazy about DOF scales but if you buy anything above cheap consumer lenses they still have them. The only thing that they don't have is an infrared focus mark :(.

    I knew some company came up with an apertureless lens or something like that but I didn't know they were suing him.

    Nikon has Matrix Metering. Their AF system is very simple compared to Canon's but is very effective. All prosumer and up cameras have 5 AF points arranged in a + style show below. The three lateral ones are cross type while the top and bottom one are line type.
    -

    + + +

    -

    Basically you can select any AF point you want. If you're shooting moving objects you can change to continuous servo and once you get a focus lock, all AF points are activated. As long as you keep the shutter half pressed down and follow the object it'll stay locked on. For instance its useful for shooting birds. I'll set the selected AF point to the right most point and once the bird enters the viewfinder I'll have enough time to press down and lock onto it with the right point. Once I have the lock I just have to keep the subject in the viewfinder. If it drifts to the left of the screen it'll stay focused because all the points are active.

    This is a good site that explains the strength of Nikon's AF system: http://www.moose395.net/f5/af.html

    Canon's system is more complicated and has 45 points tightly packed into an oval shaped grid. I have no idea how Canon's system selects points, etc. but all I know is that it works :).

    Oh and Hasselblad has a AF medium format camera out so blah :fawk:.
     
  23. TypeSDragoon

    TypeSDragoon Guest

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  24. bioyuki

    bioyuki Ich habe Angst

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    Yeah but do you have that AF system in your camera?

    Didn't think so ;).
     

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