A&P lighting? v.nikon cls

Discussion in 'Lifestyle' started by anthem404, Oct 14, 2007.

  1. anthem404

    anthem404 not my cup of mud

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    Recently, I've been using my sb-800 for more studio lighting work (or rather, practice) and I've noticed that the on camera flash that is used to trigger the off camera flash, is actually firing during the exposure...

    In the settings, I have the on camera flash set to --, which I assume means off? It still does it, and I'm pretty tired of the shitty light it produces because it kills the shadows...

    examples (sorry for the shitty examples, was just quick to get my point across):

    With the on camera flash hitting the scene - unblocked. The off camera flash is firing as well.
    [​IMG]

    With it blocked, it gives me the lighting I want, while still triggering the sb-800:
    [​IMG]

    Now, I don't want to always hold my hand in front of the flash, so onto my question:

    Is there anything that is relatively non-expensive (sub $ 250), reliable, and is compatible with my nikon gear?

    edit: I only have one sb-800, and I shoot a nikon d200
     
  2. johan

    johan Active Member

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    SU-800 if you want cls
    pocket wizards or poverty wizards or similar triggers if you don't.
     
  3. anthem404

    anthem404 not my cup of mud

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    SU-800 looks pretty shitty, I don't like that battery it uses either...

    Question though, with the pocket wizards would I need two to trigger one flash?

    Any experience with either? I know the strobists prefer the PWs
     
  4. johan

    johan Active Member

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    su-800 works really well, and is very flexible, as long as you respect the range limitation.
    nikon should really upgrade it to be radio wireless instead of ir.
    indoors it works great. outdoors, I've had it up to about 50-60 feet away l-o-s and it still works.

    PW are full manual but huge range and totally solid. You pay for it though.
    Just get the new PW's which can work as either master or slave.
    1 for the cam, and 1 per flash.


    At the $ figure you gave, look into this:
    http://www.mpex.com/

    I think they're doing the cheap pov wizards too now, or maybe you can get used PWs.
    I'd go used PWs but that depends on your $ situation.
     
  5. anthem404

    anthem404 not my cup of mud

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    To be honest, I'm never more than 15-20 feet away from my flash, so that isn't a big deal... Don't really do a whole lot of outdoor stuff, but then again, I think the $250 price on the su-800 is just nuts.
     
  6. Tedrzz

    Tedrzz New Member

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    i forget the name of it, but nikon DOES make a little accessory that covers your on camera flash. so basically the flash is covered the infrared signal is still "visable" to the flash.

    google it
     
  7. tenplanescrashing

    tenplanescrashing Active Member

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    does the SU-800 give off a red flash when it fires? I have a cheapy $40 JTL infrared sender i've used and it gives off that red flash when fired and pisses me off. the only way I can use it is if I point it backwards towards the flash.
     
  8. redna

    redna New Member

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    There is a menu item that you can actually set your contribution of the on board flash in the command section of the menu. Set the onboard flash to [--] and it wont contribute to the exposure.

    not sure if that makes sense.

    Basically, where you set your on board flash to be the commander, there is a section that allows you to set your onboard flash power to [--]. that will solve your problem.
     
  9. anthem404

    anthem404 not my cup of mud

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    I do have it set at --, it still fires during exposure. (stated in my original post)

    my hunch is that with the harsh shadows and pretty underexposure look, the onboard flash fires to help me get the "best" lighting, which it doesn't.
     
  10. natelam

    natelam New Member

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    SU-800 +1. But I typically use 3-4 flashes at a time. The great thing about it is that you can change flash exposure individually on the fly. Can't find that elsewhere with hotshoe flashes.
     

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