GUN Just got finished doing the 15 minute trigger job on the Bushy V. Big Difference

Discussion in 'On Topic' started by Ghostrider4450, Jan 7, 2007.

  1. Ghostrider4450

    Ghostrider4450 New Member

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    Out of my mind, brb never.
    If anyone here is interested in a nice modification to the smoothness of their AR trigger pull, and a little lightening as well, follow the instructions below. I can say that after putting about 500 rounds through the gun this weekend, that there was absolutely no FTF or FTEs. The hammer spring is still strong enough to get good primer strikes. :bigthumb:

    http://www.geocities.com/molonlaberkba/triggerjob.html

    15-Minute Practical Trigger Job for the AR-15

    Disclaimer: If you can't follow these directions successfully, you should not be playing with guns, especially AR-15's.

    MATERIALS NEEDED
    *Two Encyclopedias (you may sub two wood blocks, these are used to prop up the lower receiver)
    *Small punch (for trigger/hammer pins)
    *Large soft punch (3/8" Delrin rod or 3/8" wood dowel)
    *Fine compound (#7 rubbing compound or Kit Scratch Out plastic polish)
    *Wire Cutters
    *Jeweler's Pliers (small pliers with no teeth in the jaws)
    UNLOAD RIFLE
    I had to say this, too. If you didn't know this, you should not be handling firearms.
    SEPARATE UPPER RECEIVER FROM LOWER RECEIVER

    (1) Remove the Safety (AR-15's have safeties, M16's have selectors) to allow easy removal of
    the Trigger later. Turn the Safety 45 degrees, halfway between SAFE and FIRE. Lay the Lower
    Receiver on its left side on the two encyclopedias (with the Web, they aren't good for anything
    else) or wood blocks, covered with soft rags such that the Lower Receiver is blocked up, and the
    Safety can be tapped out. Tap out the Safety with the large soft Delrin® punch or wood dowel.
    With the Safety halfway between Safe and Fire it will pop out without having to remove the grip
    and detent. Don't worry about losing the Safety Detent, as it is captured by a groove in its hole.

    (2) Polish the sear surfaces. With the Hammer in the up, or fired position, place a dab of
    polishing compound on the Hammer sear surface. To prevent the hammer from striking the
    receiver and possibly breaking the bolt stop, place a strip of leather, rubber or plastic in front of
    the hammer. Cock the Hammer and pull the Trigger. Repeat this 10 times. Put another dab of
    compound on the Hammer's sear surface, and cock and fire 10 more times.

    (3) Now remove the Hammer first, then the Trigger and Disconnector, by tapping out their pins.

    (4) Clean off every trace of compound from the Hammer and Trigger. Do it again to make sure.
    Clean any compound from inside the Lower Receiver.

    (5) Clip the right leg of the Hammer Spring to a length of ¼".

    [​IMG]

    NOTE: I find that if you take the remaining leg of the hammer spring and "tighten" it by slightly twisting it in the direction the spring is wound will greatly improve hammer speed and strike. This insures 100% primer ignition.
    (6) Bend both legs of the Trigger Spring UP approximately 25 degrees as per the diagram. Use
    Jeweler's pliers for this. You do not want to leave marks in the spring. Smooth jawed pliers only!

    [​IMG]

    (7) Reassemble the Trigger assembly with the Trigger Pin's outer retaining groove to the LEFT
    side of the Receiver.

    (8) Install the Safety. A little trick....Hold the detent down with the end of a ¼" punch while
    tapping in the Safety from the other side.

    (9) Install the Hammer. When installing the Hammer Pin it does not matter which side the outer
    groove is on. Notice that the left leg of the Hammer Spring engages the outer groove of the
    Trigger Pin, which you installed to be on the left side, retaining it in the Receiver. (You may
    also want to use "Anti-Walk Pins". If you use these, install these pins so that the E-clips are
    away from your body to prevent the E-clips from snagging on your clothing and possibly
    snapping off. If you are right-handed, the E-clips should be on the right. And if you are left-handed,
    the E-clips should be on the left.)

    (10) Lubricate all the moving lower part, making sure you put a drop of oil on the Hammer sear
    surface.


    Caution: DO NOT modify the Trigger Spring without also modifying the Hammer Spring as
    described.

    I have used this trigger job method for about 10 years now, and have NEVER had it fail to pop
    the cap. Hammer Spring force is only reduced by about 25%, and there is still plenty of power to
    insure good ignition. There is still full sear engagement, so the trigger is not unsafe in any way.
    This trigger job DOES result in a smoother, lighter trigger pull.
    If you are unhappy with your results, at the most, you have only ruined two springs, three dollars
    worth of parts. This slight polishing with the compound will not harm your Hammer and Trigger
    in any way.
    Good Shooting!
    A Free Man
     
  2. Ghostrider4450

    Ghostrider4450 New Member

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    Out of my mind, brb never.
    I would imagine that the FCG is the same in both, and would work. I was really skepticle at first, but I figured hey its like 1.50 in parts if it doesnt work. Im very pleased with the outcome. I used my dremel polisher wheel and some jewelers compound, as well as the stuff that comes with the dremel. Polished the sear surfaces, moving parts, the hammer face, and used a metal wire wheel to pre polish all the surfaces. Feels very smooth, and a little lighter. The smoothness was what I was after anyways so
     
  3. Soybomb

    Soybomb New Member

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    The only note I'd like to add to that is if you get too agressive you'll remove the anodization from the parts there and get much more serious surface wear. Such is the word at least.
     
  4. Ghostrider4450

    Ghostrider4450 New Member

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    Out of my mind, brb never.
    Yeah, the surface hardener is very thin on the FCG parts. I made sure to not get too aggressive with the wire wheel and polish.
     

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