ive got 1200$....what should i get????

Discussion in 'OT Technology' started by KOZ3769, May 24, 2002.

  1. KOZ3769

    KOZ3769 Guest

    i need a complete system for 1200...i would like 2 12's..a head unit, and an amplifier...what would be the best stuff out there for 1200$??? thanks-
     
  2. caddymac

    caddymac Guest

    2 Shiva's - 250
    Pioneer 740MP - 300
    JBL 1200.1 - 300

    I'm sorry, I'm out of ideas. Anyone else?
     
  3. GoGophers

    GoGophers New Member

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    Pioneer 840mp 400
    jbl 1200.1 300
    Eclipse Alum 88120 subs 450
     
  4. Zepher

    Zepher Hi, I am Kimmy

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    JVC KD-SH99 In-dash MP3/CD Player $279

    Not too sure about the price of other audio gear nowadays.
    I am still running my older setup with my new JVC headunit.

    I've got a JL 12W6, Polk Audio 4x6 and 6x9's, Alpine V12 4ch Amp, and a Rockford Fosgate Punch 125.2 ( I think that is the model of the Fosgate I have, it's 250watts bridged mono).
     
  5. 04

    04 Guest

    Do you want speakers or just subs? If you want just subs, how about 2 www.blueprintdrivers.com 1203 subs which are 220 dollars apiece. I have the 18" version and it is very loud. Then for the amp, an earthquake PHD2 which I believe can be bought for 400 dollars. Then spend about 200 on the head unit, if you dont mind not having flashy features and the rest on a pair of speakers, around 100 dollars. Your system would be amazingly loud, I dont even want to know how loud those subs would be with that much power. With a good install, you could hit over 150dB legal. If you upgraded to the 1503's or the 1803's like in my avatar, you would probably blow your windows out! :bigthumb: j/k
     
  6. flynfrog

    flynfrog Cool isnt Cheap

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    i ahve 2 shocker 12s and a d2 ill sell it all to you fo 550 shipped then you have alto to get a realy nice deck

    ill throw in teh box if you want to pay shipping for it and it will be loud enough to make every thin g looses in your car i know form experince
     
  7. Lempdoe

    Lempdoe gettin while the gettin's good

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    Re: Re: ive got 1200$....what should i get????

    that doesn't include install or a box or tax...probably another $2-300. also, not many $200 head units have sub controls, which believe me, makes a HUGE difference.

    start small, 2/3rds of the $1200 on a GOOD h/u and some nice highs, and save the rest for amp/subs.
     
  8. 04

    04 Guest

    Re: Re: Re: ive got 1200$....what should i get????

    I just installed an alpine deck in a guys car that was 180 at ultimate electronics, and it had a subwoofer preout. Also, what do you mean by saying the sub control makes a big difference? It only allows you to change the volume of the sub in relation to your other amp(s). You could just as easily use a deck that has 4 preouts, hook the front 2 to the midrange amp, and the rear preouts to the sub amp. You could then use the fader as a sub control.

    As for spending 2/3 of his money on that, I would disagree for his situation. He seems to like bass. Therefore, he would be better off spending most of his money on low frequency reproduction. If he said he didnt care much about loud bass or whatever, I would not have reccomended such an elaborate subwoofer setup.
     
  9. Lempdoe

    Lempdoe gettin while the gettin's good

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    Re: Re: Re: Re: ive got 1200$....what should i get????

    I agree with your second point, that if all he wanted was bass, he should spend the majority of his money on that.

    Two areas for discussion on the first point: if you're buying a cheap deck and you've got a price cap, why would you have a midrange amp? More than likely, the h/u would power the mids & highs (including the rears). I guess if you wanted to do it with two separate amps, its possible, but it wouldn't be my first choice.

    Also, I know for a fact that having dedicated sub controls makes a HUGE difference in the way the subs sound. I used to have an Aiwa CDC-MP3 h/u, and it did not have pure sub controls (it had H-BASS, but that wasn't that useful). For a while I honestly thought the money I spent on my RF 360.2 & 2 10" IDQ's was wasted, cause they didn't sound like what they had been hyped up to be. However, I recently upgraded to a Pioneer 840MP, and the difference is INSANE. Not only in the highs & mids (no amp yet), but just in the way that the subs sound. Words cannot describe it.
     
  10. Zepher

    Zepher Hi, I am Kimmy

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    Best piece of car audio equipment is an electronic cross-over.
    Kicker makes a very nice one. My brother has one and it makes it so much easier to adjust the sounds of each pairs of channels and the sub. Just need to have a seperate amp(s) for your speakers.
     
  11. 04

    04 Guest

    Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: ive got 1200$....what should i get????

    I really would reccomend using an external amplifier, one not on your cd player. Why? Because the things cannot put out very much power. With all 4 channels driven, my guesses would be that the actual RMS power output from 20hz to 20khz into 4 ohm loads with less than 5% thd would be less than 10 watts per channel. Not enough power if you ever want to listen to your music loud. I would figure with cabin gain, your net speaker sensitivity would be around 90dB @ 1w. With the amp driven to the max, you would probably be getting around 100dB @ 10w. With all 4 speakers driven, you *could* gain another 12 dB, but I wouldnt be so hopefull about that.. I would figure your max SPL would be limited to about 106dB. That is relativly loud, but some people like it louder.

    The reason your variable sub output made a difference is because you were used to the bass boost. The bass boost had a preset Q and frequency. When you clicked the little button, it added a specific amount of boost at specific frequencies to ALL your speakers and subwoofers. You probably heard a plooping distorted sound before. Afterwards, the new adjustable sub line level allowed for boost only on the subwoofer amplifier, at a constant bandwidth, meaning their was no Q to the filter creating less Intermodulate distortion and increeased the power handling of the midranges. That is the reason you heard a difference. Feel free to pop off your dash and pull the RCA cables and put them on the rear preouts on the deck. Then use the fader as a "subwoofer control". You will *most likely* notice the same effect as to upgrading to a new deck.
     

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