Discussion in 'OT Driven' started by bnb5550, May 28, 2007.
fucking $1400 though
better be coated at that price. i got mine before they offered them precoated. paid about 1100 i believe.
they are coated and come with HF catted midpipes
ummm yeah that would be a fucking waste
you don't want to maximize intake w/o some how increasing exhaust at the same time. Do the cam but do the exhaust at the same time. Thats like the idiot that bought only a magnacharger for his goat when it was bone stock and expected it to make some crazy HP.
i got my stainless extractors for the gto , for a little over $400 ... bring on the mid range torque !
one its not blown up, just lost oil pressure as it should. still trying to determin what happened to my shitty car. I took a chance on a motor that I bought from somebody, its not something that I had a machine shop build or even build myself. Nothing I did would even cause the problems that occured. If anything at this point, it was part of the oil filter coming apart because i saw pieces on the pickup tube. Changing cams doesn't cause you to loseor have fluxuating oil pressure. Still think there is something stuck in one of the passages because there are no signs of spun bearings (atleast cam bearings, haven't gotten to the bottom half yet. Had a new oil pump when i put it together, and then replaced that one with another new one and a new pickup tube, but still the same problem. I changed the oil mutiple times before it even saw any kind of heavy load, so it was throughly cleaned out. Shit happens, thats what happens with not stock parts sometimes. Could have happened to anyone. I didn't do anything that I haven't already done in the past which has never resulted in any problems.
two, why are you going to try to manipulate valve timing to increase flow and efficiency when you still have a bottle neck at each end. Yes a cam is going to help out alot but not until you alleviate the ristrictions on both the intake and exhaust sides. Stock manifolds on a cam car don't work out to well. It will work but why not just do it right the first time and get the desired results
I would say to alteast get all the intake and exhaust mods done first. You can do it in which ever order you want but not doing all the bolt ons first doesn't make sense.
Longtubes are pretty expensive for quality stuff. You can always camp the for sale forum at LS1GTO and get a nice set used. Should save youself 300-500 easily.
the only LTs for sale on there right now are some stainless works w/ HF catted midpipes and he wants $1200 for them + shipping
Thats they way the stainless QTP's used to be when they first hit the marker. I just picked up a set of them for $450. Mind you it took a while to find them at that price, but they will get cheaper as time progresses. If you have the cash though, go with they stainless. They are way better then the coated jet hots that i used to have
Ideally, you should just do it all at once ;p otherwise you're just messing with something the factory tuned right the first time.
already have an exhaust and just put in my lingenfelter intake last night
I think even SLP would cost less than Kook$$$$
yeah but SLP anything sucks dick, if you can afford them I would hold out. But the stainless steel heads made by Kooks or QTP are well worth the money
may be pciking up some 275 MT ET streets soon
looking at the kooks or ARHs myself. kooks + corsa =
I've been reading up on cam swaps (have one planned for my ls1). I not sure if you know about the issues people have had with the oil pick up tube o-ring? I guess if its bad you can get really bad fluctuating oil pressure and possible collapse the number 7 lifter. I was reading about it on CZ28.com. you probably already know but incase you didnt
I'm an engineer: you really don't know shit
That response is helpful. I know what I know and its not and its far from everything. Its a hobby, would be better to be helpful and point out where i'm wrong then be a dick.