GUN How to inspect a shotgun before purchase?

Discussion in 'On Topic' started by Atheist, Jul 17, 2009.

  1. Atheist

    Atheist oh, hi OT Supporter

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    Hello all,

    I recently made a thread looking for a shotgun for a reasonable price. I went to the pawn shop at the recommendation of someone on another forum and found both a Charles Daly (220$ in good condition) and a Rem 1100 (280$ in fair condition).

    The price on the rem seems very fair and I would like to purchase it on Monday AM if it comes back clean.

    I have been around shotguns and have a pump in the other room however I have never really been shown the proper way to inspect one, especially a semi auto, to ensure that all is well.

    What do you guys suggest? Please be specific so I know what you are talking about.
     
  2. apman0000

    apman0000 OT Supporter

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    regardless of how good it looks pick up some 0 rings cause you'll probably want to throw a new one in there cause who knows how old or how many rounds have gone thru the gun with no replacement. cheap fix that can keep your semi shooting well for a long time.
     
  3. Atheist

    Atheist oh, hi OT Supporter

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    What is this?

    Edit: Nevermind, I know what you mean now. I thought you might mean zero ring referring to a specific ring for this gun (since you typed a zero there) but now I realize you just meant typical o-ring on the cyl.
     
  4. yar1182

    yar1182 New Member

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    check around the ejection port for cracks. If a shotgun cracks anywhere it will be around the ejection port. It could be a very faint hairline crack so you got to look.

    If you can break down the shotgun on the 1100 you should check the firing pin. This is a part that seems to get rounded off or breaks. If it is short then you'll get light primer strikes. I have seen this often and keep firing pins for my 1100 in my parts kit.

    remove the barrel and look though it. On the bottom of the barrel are two gas ports. It is a common modification to have these drilled out larger. Easy modification but make sure nobody boogered it up, or there is a crack between them.

    Check the barrel for choke tubes. Check what type of chokes they are because they might not nessasarily be rem chokes. if somebody got it cut for chokes and used something other than rem chokes you'll be searching for the right wrench. I had a hell of a problem with this and had to buy several wrenched before i got the right one
     
  5. dpixel8

    dpixel8 New Member

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    damn you're quick :mad:
     
  6. dpixel8

    dpixel8 New Member

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    :rofl: @ OT matrix mixup in order:rofl:
     
  7. dpixel8

    dpixel8 New Member

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    ZOOM, beat you that time, faggot :rofl:
     
  8. dpixel8

    dpixel8 New Member

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    you fixed it :eek4:
     
  9. Atheist

    Atheist oh, hi OT Supporter

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    I was hoping you would post in here :bowdown:

    How do you know what type of choke is in there?

    When you say bottom of the barrel, which end do you mean?

    If I can't break it down beyond taking the forearm and barrel off, is the firing pin expensive?
     
  10. yar1182

    yar1182 New Member

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    iirc the firing pin is like $40. While your at it you should replace the firing pin spring, and there is a pin or something too. My smith said when you do a firing pin on a 1100 might as well do the other two parts too. Your looking at $50 or so + shipping from brownells.

    The gas ports are visable from the chamber end. You have to yank the barrel off to see them.

    The choke tubes should be marked. You will need to pull them out to see them. If your shogun comes with the choke wrench it is less of a issue.
     
  11. Atheist

    Atheist oh, hi OT Supporter

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    Thanks for the info,

    I doubt it is going to come with the wrench, he didn't mention it and its a pawn shop.

    Do you have any idea how to date these things? Based on the images I have seen this is an `older` model but I have read that some do not come with removable chokes, etc. I am not sure how to determine this as I have never pulled chokes.
     
  12. yar1182

    yar1182 New Member

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    you can visably see if it has choke tubes or not. If the barrel doesn't have chokes it will be completely smooth at the muzzle. The choke tube barrel will have a distinctive ring on the outer edge of the muzzle where you can see where choke meets barrel. And there will be 2 or 4 divets where the teeth of the ckoke tube wrench fit.

    Typically if it's a remington barrel and it is set up for chokes it should be rem chokes. If it is a aftermarket barrel good chance it's colonial chokes. Sometimes people have a remington barrel that was not choked and they cut it for chokes. Then it's whatever chokes the smith likes to use. It could be anything. That is where you get into trouble if it's something really oddball that has a different thread pitch or uses a wierd wrench. That and being able to buy more of the chokes.
     
  13. Atheist

    Atheist oh, hi OT Supporter

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    Thanks for the info!

    Kiss? :naughty:
     
  14. Atheist

    Atheist oh, hi OT Supporter

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    FYI, I bought the Remington 1100 for 250$ out the door. I bought a box of Remington 2 3/4 7.5 shot light loads but it jammed on test fire.

    Went through it very carefully tonight to clean it and oil it using a few guides on the web. It all went smoothly. Upon re-assembly I noticed that if I wasn't very careful, the forearm could go on without the barrel being fully seated in the receiver.

    Because I had very quickly taken off the forearm and barrel before my test fire earlier, and because it looked like the barrel wasn't seated when I got the jam out, I am confident that that was my problem.

    I'm going to go out tomorrow and dump off a few more rounds.

    One question though, I can hear the piston sliding freely if I tilt the gun up and down. Is this normal?
     
  15. yar1182

    yar1182 New Member

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    Mine does not slide around freely. Is the o-ring in the shotgun.
     
  16. Atheist

    Atheist oh, hi OT Supporter

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    Yes, the o-ring is in place it is the piston that slides. The piston looks like this after I pop the two pieces apart.

    [​IMG]

    Just purely metal. What keeps your piston from sliding up or down?
     
  17. yar1182

    yar1182 New Member

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    really not sure. Mine has always been tight. I have to pry it out most of the time when disassembling
     
  18. The Cable Guy

    The Cable Guy New Member

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    Be sure to carry some shells in your pocket so you can test fire it.
     
  19. apman0000

    apman0000 OT Supporter

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    the piston can do that, i've heard of other people saying the same, i bet after you put more rounds through it it won't do it anymore. it seems strange because the new 1100's have the single piston ring and the older have the double which it looks like you have and the piston sliding around is only something i've heard people ask about with new 1100's and it seems to stop happening after some rounds go thru the gun, seems odd that a gun with some age would still do it. i don't think it's an issue, it's meant to slide when fired and i've known at least 2 other people that had this happen and it caused 0 problems (they were new 1100's though....weird)

    the fact that your 1100 has probably had plenty of shells through it, it does seem odd that it still slides freely when it really should just stay in place except for when it's doing it's job
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2009
  20. Atheist

    Atheist oh, hi OT Supporter

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    I think that what I have is actually the `single` when I compare it to the video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5XvGsBwYVc (watch at 2:45) because when it is on the action tube it looks like:

    [​IMG]

    My 1100 has definitely had its fair share of rounds through it. I am not sure if it was able to move with the bolt forward or not. I want to say that it did because I remember releasing the bolt forward and then flipping it. It seemed hesitant to move at first but then as I recall it did move freely. Does this sound like a problem? Should I go ahead and try to find and order the old style? I am not sure who to use as parts vendors for these guns but I am sure I can find out somewhere.

    Another difference that I noted was that the feedlatch on my gun came out when I pulled the trigger out because it was held on by the pin closest to the ejection port. From the other guides I have seen it seems like these do not come out when people pull their triggers, but I am not sure if that is significant in helping to date the gun. The exploded view in the manual showed the piece as being detachable so I am not sure why other people do not note that theres falls out.

    Yar, is your gun older or newer? Does the piston look like mine? And just curious, what about the feedlatch (that you push up to get the bolt and action bar assembly out)? Does yours fall out once you pull the trigger?
     
  21. yar1182

    yar1182 New Member

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    mine is a older 1100 with the 2 piece piston like yours. Mine also does not have a feed latch because the lifter has been replaced with a dave metal works easy loader lifter
     
  22. Atheist

    Atheist oh, hi OT Supporter

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    And yours does not slide ever? Even with the bolt locked back?

    Do you shoot the gun with the magazine tube wet or dry?
     
  23. yar1182

    yar1182 New Member

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    Mine never slide freely. Understand that when I got the shotgun it pretty much went strait to the smith to be worked up into a competition gun. I run the piston wet. If you mean inside the mag tube I run that dry.
     
  24. Atheist

    Atheist oh, hi OT Supporter

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    I meant outside and thank you for getting back to me.

    Whats wrong with keeping something stock -- you modify EVERYTHING at least a little it seems like.

    Yar, do you have spinner hubcaps? You can be honest..
     
  25. yar1182

    yar1182 New Member

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    I'm a competition shooter. Got me my firearms industry job. I drive a stock ford pickup
     

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