how-to: breaking in a new car/engine

Discussion in 'OT Driven' started by keleko, Nov 23, 2005.

  1. keleko

    keleko yes, he is

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    well, not so much a "how-to" as a "how to?"

    due to circumstances FAR beyond my control, it looks like it'll be at least friday and maybe sat. until i get my new car on the road, gives me a lil bit more time to ax dis kewshun


    best ideas/practices anyone? :bigthumb:





















    oh and:
    FUCK enterprise and FUCK westway towing (in ft lauderdale), then FUCK comcast while we're at it
    :squint:
     
  2. ej25power

    ej25power OT Supporter

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    You can just keep it under 3k for the first thousand. If you're in a hurry, my friend explained the "racer" break in to me a while ago. Basically, take it to redline in increasing levels of throttle. 10% throttle all the way to redline, 20% and so on until you're WOT. This is what he did with his STi because he wanted to start tracking it asap.
     
  3. 91TwinTurboZ

    91TwinTurboZ New Member

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    I read a really good article on how to break in motors I will look to see if i can find it again.
     
  4. 91TwinTurboZ

    91TwinTurboZ New Member

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  5. Cachee0

    Cachee0 OT's Technical Recruiter, Send me your resume

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    I like to mill my motors in. So I usally drive it like I stole it for the first 3000 miles.

    IMHO
     
  6. JAFAR

    JAFAR FPS whore OT Supporter

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    Drive it like you stole it. The main thing people are concerned with when "breaking in" an engine is seating the rings. With today's manufacturing process, each engine they build is broken in at the factory, so there is no need to break them in again when you get it.

    If there is a manufacturer break-in listed in the manual, as in most "sportier" vehicles, it's aimed toward the driver, so they get used to the vehicle and understand its dynamics before they go and kill themselves.
     
  7. keleko

    keleko yes, he is

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    i read that one too, but it looks like it's aimed at bikes, not cars, even though it say it can be applied to all 4 cycle engines

    which is what that link above says to do, but now you say this is already done so it's not needed?

    :dunno:

    i like the idea of drive it like you stole it though :big grin:

    what about oil change intervals for cars vs bikes?
     
  8. JAFAR

    JAFAR FPS whore OT Supporter

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    Yes, once final assembly is complete for the engine, it is run on a dyno to seal the rings and ensure proper functionality. You should have no problem running the engine to maximum potential when you take ownership.

    As for oil change intervals, when I buy a new car, I change the oil after two tanks of gas, usually about 500 - 700 miles. After that, it's regular 5K mile changes with synthetic. Is it necessary? Probably not, but I do it anyway as a preventative measure.
     
  9. Cachee0

    Cachee0 OT's Technical Recruiter, Send me your resume

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    well I don't know about them braking in motors at the factory unless it's porsche or some other exotic car company. But with computer added milling of blocks and final assembly with 150k TQ wrenches the best thing to do is just drive it like you would everyday. The brakes and tranny need a little time to set in but pushing to red line after a 300 miles would be fine and better for sealing a motor up. FYI use only Dino oil for brake in.
     
  10. hayguyz

    hayguyz New Member

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    oh okay, so i guess my friend is just wasting his time in his M5 when the manual says keep the revs under 5.5k for the first something thousand miles
     
  11. Cachee0

    Cachee0 OT's Technical Recruiter, Send me your resume

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    No but I would have had the rear tires compelety gone by my first 1000 miles.
     
  12. hayguyz

    hayguyz New Member

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    true i would definately demand that the dealer removed the 'M' option and made it permanent, or threaten that i'd go to mercedes for the e55 :)
     
  13. keleko

    keleko yes, he is

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    i'm not buying a ferrari, see this response:

    so a bit conflicting there



    :dunno:

    afaik, synthetic is the way to go
    why use liquid dinosaurs? what could be better about it?
     
  14. keleko

    keleko yes, he is

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  15. keleko

    keleko yes, he is

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  16. jokka

    jokka OT Supporter

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    so drive it like you stole it for maximum breakage ?
     
  17. Ivy Mike

    Ivy Mike New Member

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    Synthetic oil is really slick stuff...so much so that it can arrest the break in period a bit.

    Its better to run dino oil during break-in simply to ensure proper seating of the rings. The motors are NOT broken in from the factory. The new machining processes shorten break-in, but it is still required.

    The mototune link is a PERFECT example of how to break in a new motor. The other thing to remember is to change your oil REALLY soon. If you look at the oil, you'll notice it kinda has this filmy sheen on it...that is particulate metal suspended in the oil that your filter didn't catch. Get it out of the motor...dino oil is cheap anyway. The break-in procedure is fine for car engines.

    Read the site...it explains things in great detail.
     
  18. keleko

    keleko yes, he is

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    right, as a few have suggested.

    problem is that is says "There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles " and " change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles" and this car has 35 on it already
    it says to use dino-oil, but other than the 1st 20 miles, it doesn't say how often to change it

    so 1st thing get them to change the oil before i take it off the lot? how much of a difference is there between a bike engine, which the site is pretty much written for, and a car engine on the matter of the piston rings?

    obviously not many ppl have access to a dyno or a racetrack, so breakin would have to be done on the street, so what the site is saying is to not get on the highway at a steady speed or don't get caught in traffic - i.e., drive it like ya stole it for the 1st 1500 miles lol


     

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