How much would it cost to build a LS2?

Discussion in 'OT Driven' started by PanzerAce, Oct 1, 2008.

  1. PanzerAce

    PanzerAce Active Member

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    From the block up? I'm trying to figure out engine options for my '73 Datsun Z, and V8s have a reputation for being the second cheapest swap. However, I DON'T want to get a used engine (something I'm OCD about), so I'd like to know how much it would cost to build a complete LS2 from the bare block. (ie: pistons, heads, cam, crank, conrods, valves, springs, bearings, pumps, etc)


    And if anyone has a smoking deal on bareblocks as well, lemme know :big grin:

    :wavey:
     
  2. you know me

    you know me OT where the douchbags play

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    why not just get a used block and build it?
     
  3. PanzerAce

    PanzerAce Active Member

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    Because I most likely would end up replacing everything short of maybe the crank and oilpan, and at that point I might as well just build it from the bare block and save on shipping/cost

    Plus, as I mentioned, I'm kinda OCD about engine stuff. It's actually the same with guns. If at all possible, I'd prefer a new one, since I don't know how the PO treated it, fucked with it, etc.
     
  4. NEp8ntballer

    NEp8ntballer New Member

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  5. you know me

    you know me OT where the douchbags play

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    also check with the vette doctors, south georgia corvette, and places like that so see what it would run
     
  6. MeanGreen

    MeanGreen New Member

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    i would actually say you should atlease get a used block. Alot of engine builders would rather you use a used aluminum block since its already been heat cycled.

    if you looking for a good rebuild with a new or tuend crank and forged assembly, you looking around just over 3k (that probably including the price of the block)
     
  7. PanzerAce

    PanzerAce Active Member

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    heat cycled?


    And I'll check out that custom LS engine site. I'm aiming for ~500whp.
     
  8. Mitchj

    Mitchj OT Supporter

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    Do GM still do LS2's? Might be time to go a LS3.
     
  9. MeanGreen

    MeanGreen New Member

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    Guy that built my motor, said that when it comes to aluminum blocks he perfers to start with a used block. He said that even a new block can still move and change some what since its not been heated and cooled many times over. Not saying that this is a huge change but he said that to keep all toleraces in check, he perfers to use old ones.
     
  10. Ive heard its the same with old iron blocks :dunno:
    its better to get a heat cycled one
     
  11. MeanGreen

    MeanGreen New Member

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    He told me that he doest haven't any ploblems with using new iron ones :hs:

    once cast they pretty much never change
     
  12. PanzerAce

    PanzerAce Active Member

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    Sounds like bullshit to me. The heat treating that the blocks go through is going to be far more intensive then anything that driving it could do. :hsd:
     
  13. Mitchj

    Mitchj OT Supporter

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    wouldn't you restore the body of the car before bothering with the engine anyway?
     
  14. MeanGreen

    MeanGreen New Member

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    To each their own

    He builds bottom ends that cost more then what some people spend on purchasing a car, so i usually listen to what he says
     
  15. bradj

    bradj give him the stick...DON'T GIVE HIM THE STICK!!

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  16. PanzerAce

    PanzerAce Active Member

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    It just seems like if it were true that it would happen during the heat treating process rather than during daily driving. If there's any science behind it, I'd be more than happy to read up about it, but it just doesn't seem like there is :hsd:

    Body of the car is essentially fine. There are a few small rust spots on the hood that I need to take care of, but other than that, nothing is really serious. I do plan on doing some more work to it, but I need alternate transportation before I can do that. On the other hand, I can start working on an engine whenever :dunno:
     
  17. Mitchj

    Mitchj OT Supporter

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    i think an engine conversion will require alternative transportation anyway :mamoru:
     
  18. PanzerAce

    PanzerAce Active Member

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    yes, but I can start on the engine itself without interfering with me DDing the Z :mamoru:

    The current plan is get the engine, tranny, rear end, axles, new wheels/tires, engine mounts, radiator, oil cooler, etc etc etc all ready before the car has a single wrench taken to it for the swap. Then, once everything is on hand for the swap, get another car (hopefully another Z :x:) to drive while I swap the new engine etc in.
     
  19. wabash9000

    wabash9000 Active Member

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    just buy a ls7 crate engine and it will be more than enough for that car.
     
  20. PanzerAce

    PanzerAce Active Member

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    paying double for the engine compared to what I paid for the car ftl :wtc:

    On the other hand, if I can get a job at the local PnP and a Z06 ever shows up, I'm going to call dibs on the engine :run:



    ibmainforumthread'PanzerAcejustdiedgoingsidewayswhilerollingandonfire'
     
  21. wabash9000

    wabash9000 Active Member

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    ftl but if you are planning to build it from the block up it will probably cost the same.
     
  22. wabash9000

    wabash9000 Active Member

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  23. PanzerAce

    PanzerAce Active Member

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  24. jdhommert

    jdhommert OT Supporter

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    check out texas-speed.com too
     
  25. wabash9000

    wabash9000 Active Member

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    yeah I know but what that would be like an extra $7-800 and then you have a 400/400 engine with 24 months of gm coverage on it and one hell of a fast car. Once I graduate college I am going to do the same swap into my 95 240sx. But only after I buy a g8gt with a 6sp and then both my cars with be 6.0L ls3's with 6speeds. sick as fuck....

    god anyone got a towel I am drooling again.
     

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