A&P Had a crash course in product photography last night..

Discussion in 'Lifestyle' started by dmora, Jan 26, 2005.

  1. dmora

    dmora Guest

    looks like i found another thing i need to work on.

    I made a light "box". 4 pieces of posterboard into a floppy box.
    Still didnt come out right.

    before
    [​IMG]

    after post.
    [​IMG]

    Can someone point me to some reading material on the subject?
     
  2. MelloBoy

    MelloBoy New Member

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    ooooh
    I6
    which engine is it for?
     
  3. Jcolman

    Jcolman OT Supporter

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    The biggest problem is that your placing the light next to the camera and your light source is casting unwanted shadows. Try moving the light to an overhead position and soften it to the point where you hardly see the shadows. Use a bounce card to fill in the foreground. Also, if you can get a bigger backdrop you can move the header away from the background. I like to place a seperate soft spot light on the background behind the product to help define the product and create a "glow" effect.

    Shinny objects usually are lit best by a big soft source placed overhead. You can also use long pieces of black poster board to create reflections in the chrome so that you don't have so much white area.
     
  4. dmora

    dmora Guest

    Supra :big grin:

    Yea, i knew what i was doing wrong, i just didnt know how to do it better.... Later on that night i had to photograph bigger objects, so i laid out the poster board in 4 squares on the floor and climbed a ladder.
    I bounced flash off a piece of 3'x4' of polished alumiunm and tried using a hallogen lamp... but then i got a blue cast from the flash and a yellow cast from the hallogen lamp. If i just used the flash, i had a problem of it not being powerful enough to light the whole scene, and just worked like a spotlight.

    Here's a diagram. :o
    [​IMG]
     
  5. dmora

    dmora Guest

    i think i might need to get a taller tripod for shooting above. I think if i can have alonger exposure it might come out better.
    Same thing on the light box i made. i could have subsituted the flash for longer exposure.
     
  6. Jcolman

    Jcolman OT Supporter

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    You also need more lights. A small "slave" strobe can be purchased for under $50. I rarely use less than four or five lights when I work, but I also shoot video instead of stills. Plus I have a big studio and about 15 different lights to work with.


    Also, bounce your flash off of a white card instead of a shinny surface. You'll like the results. Mixing strobe and tungsten is going to give you all sorts of white balance issues as well. I've done this, but I tend to use the tungsten as a back light or kicker if I do.
     
  7. dmora

    dmora Guest

    tungsten being the hallogen?

    Would a posterboard work for a white card? I think im going to make my shop buy me more flashes.
    only problem is i need to find some that work with the wireless features on my D70 like my SB800. :o this flash wasnt cheap either. :hsd:
     
  8. Jcolman

    Jcolman OT Supporter

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    Yes...the hallogen light isn't the same color temp. as your spots. Here is an example. Note the light on the seat of the bike is warm. This is from the tungsten lights. The rest of the bike was lit with a flash on the camera. Also note that this isn't a "product" shot. I just wanted a quick pic of my bike.

    [​IMG]

    As for additional strobes, you can buy a "slave" unit that attaches to the extra strobe and fires it when you fire the main strobe. It works by using a light sensor to trigger the strobe so you don't need any cables to connect your lights together.

    Poster board works fine as a bounce card but the problem is that it's somewhat flimsy. I like using foamcore. It's a lightweight 1/4" thick pure white board that comes in 4'x8' sheets.
     
  9. dmora

    dmora Guest

    yea, this was all last minute, and i couldnt get anything nice like foam core. Ill try that next time.

    Any suggestions on how do make a "box" for small products?
     
  10. Jcolman

    Jcolman OT Supporter

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    For small products I generally use smaller lights. I think the box you made should work ok.

    A lot of the skill in lighting is simply flagging off light from areas wehre you don't want it and using nets to decrease the intensity.

    Use pieces of black posterboard as flags. You'll need stands to hold the flags in place. I use "C-stands" which have arms that can reach out from the stand to hold flags and nets.
     
  11. MelloBoy

    MelloBoy New Member

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    a supra is not an engine :big grin:
    1JZ? 2JZ-GTE? 7M-GTE? 2JZ-GE conversion to turbo?
    hehe
     
  12. dmora

    dmora Guest

    thats the 2jz-GTE single turbo (T4) manifold.
     
  13. dmora

    dmora Guest

    :noes: sounds like something i cant muddle my way though now. :sad2:
     
  14. Jcolman

    Jcolman OT Supporter

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    Maybe not to the level I describe but you have the skill to produce good work. Take your time and experiment. If you have basic equipment, keep your lighting simple. You can still create nice soft light by just bouncing your strobe off a white card.
     
  15. dmora

    dmora Guest

    I found some attachments for my flash to bounce... but they look very simple to make.
    I'm trying to look up things like slave flashes now. Any suggestions on types/kinds to look for for Nikon DSLRs? or are they more generic than that?
     
  16. Jcolman

    Jcolman OT Supporter

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    Any flash will work as a slave as long as the flash has a "hot shoe" sync.
     

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