GUN gun cleaning tips?

Discussion in 'On Topic' started by spankaveli, Feb 23, 2005.

  1. spankaveli

    spankaveli OT Supporter

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    i just bought some pads, hoppe's no.9 and a cleaning kit from wally world

    can anyone give some tips? what needs to be cleaned and in what order and what not.

    thanks :bigok:
     
  2. trevor

    trevor There's always a brand new day

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    read the owners manual that came with the gun. There are a few weapon specific tips for every different kind.
     
  3. ShackleMeNot

    ShackleMeNot MINDSET

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    What are you cleaning?
     
  4. eWRXshun

    eWRXshun hai

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    i presume his sig p228 and his sks

    never run a brush down the bore without some sort of cleaning fluid in the bore
    pull the brush through, don't push.

    hoppes powder solvent and CLP is your friend.
     
  5. spankaveli

    spankaveli OT Supporter

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    ive got hoppes. what is clp?

    and yes, its the p228.

    i bought it used so i dont have a manual :hs:
     
  6. JonDaAzn

    JonDaAzn New Member

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  7. eWRXshun

    eWRXshun hai

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  8. Goat

    Goat That crack is really moreish

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    :werd:


    I love CLP :hs:
     
  9. 7

    7 First comes smiles, then lies. Last is gunfire.

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    are you talking about using a boresnake? I dont follow how you could pull a rod and brush though anything without it being a huge pain in the ass.
     
  10. eWRXshun

    eWRXshun hai

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    no i'm not talking about a boresnake...........i'm talking about running the rod and brush along the bore from the chamber to the muzzle. easy to do on every rifle except the shoe typed M1 series and closed receiver pistols with non removable barrels.
     
  11. 7

    7 First comes smiles, then lies. Last is gunfire.

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    That's pushing, not pulling :o

    Cleaning from the muzzle sucks ass, though I finally realized that the cleaning rod I have how a crown guide on it that screw onto the handle :mamoru: Stoney point makes a really good boreguide, they have an aluminum body with delrin tips that you can switch off for different bore sizes and it only costs $20.
     
  12. Bill2k1

    Bill2k1 Simple Man

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    Its called Breakfree CLP, it comes in spray and liquid. Lots of people swear by it, it does everything you need for a gun. Its good stuff I use it.

    Write Sig, they will send you a manual, should be no cost to you.
     
  13. eWRXshun

    eWRXshun hai

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    how is that pushing if you're pulling the brush to you keeping the bristles going in one directon along the bore?
     
  14. 7

    7 First comes smiles, then lies. Last is gunfire.

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    are you talking about just cleaning the chamber? I took it as you pull the brush through the bore from the chamber to the muzzle. :hsugh:
     
  15. eWRXshun

    eWRXshun hai

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    i'm talking about cleaning the bore of the rifle in that direction, yes. the same direction the bullet follows down the bore when fired.

    not just the chamber.
     
  16. 7

    7 First comes smiles, then lies. Last is gunfire.

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    So you run the rod down the bore from the muzzle and into the chamber, screw the brush on, then pull it back through the bore?
     
  17. eWRXshun

    eWRXshun hai

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    that's how i do it and no, the rod doesn't scrape the side when i do it.
     
  18. Goat

    Goat That crack is really moreish

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    I'm assuming that's because you have an M14?

    I'm glad I only have to clean a bolt action :hs:
     
  19. oakie

    oakie my ninja.

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    an aluminum or brass rod with a brass brush will not damage the STEEL barrel in any way.

    just dont try to reverse direction midstroke while using the brush as you'll simply cause undue tension. try to brush by inserting the brush from the chamber and not the muzzle to protect the end of the muzzle if possible. most rods will have a delrin "funnel" to keep the rod handle from contacting chamber or muzzle, depending on which end you brush from... if it doesnt, get one, as the base of many cleaning rods are steel with a plastic handle and CAN damage the barrel if rammed too forcefully.

    Breakfree CLP is a great product for not only cleaning but lubricating and rust prevention. with CLP, you can ditch the Hoppes #9 if you clean your firearms after every range day. if you use corrosive ammo in your SKS or non-jacketed lead ammo in your Sig, keep the Hoppes around as it's solvent is much stronger than the CLP for proper neutralizing of the mercury laced priming compounds left behind with corrosive ammo, and breaking down lead that has rubbed itself onto the rifling.

    as for your Sig, Sigarms packages every new gun with a sample of Mil-Comm's TW-25B synthetic grease. every Sig gets a shot of it on the way out of the factory. it's good stuff, but not cheap. it's designed to create a molecular bond with the metal contact/friction parts to provide long lasting lubrication without constant reapplication. i use it on all of my actions, and the difference was like night and day on my Glock's trigger the first time i used it.

    my simple cleaning process involves the following supplies:

    Brass bore brush
    Cleaning rod (free rotating rod with delrin guard)
    Patches
    Brass jag (Kleen-Bore)
    Breakfree CLP
    Plastic bristle brush
    Mil-Comm TW-25B Grease
    Q-Tips

    Step 1: heavily soak a patch with Breakfree CLP and push it through the bore in a single stroke with the cleaning rod and jag. let it sit. (if you shot corrosive ammo or exposed lead bullets, use the Hoppes #9 instead)

    Step 2: soak Q-tips in CLP and rub into hard to reach areas to dissolve and remove powder residue, with special attention to springs, guide rails, and action mechanisms. use clean Q-tip to absorb excess CLP. use soaked patches for larger areas like the muzzle of the slide, ejection port, frame interior, magazine. use dry patches or lint-free rag to remove CLP residue.

    Step 3: once the frame is complete, the bore should be ready for cleaning. push the brush and rod into the barrel from the chamber end (if possible) and push until the brush exits the muzzle. you may then pull the brush back through to complete 2 strokes. continue this for 6-8 strokes.

    Step 4: use the next size up brass brush to clean the chamber. if you have a 40/10mm, use a .45 brush. if you have a 9mm, use a 40/10mm brush... etc. with the cleaning rod handle, insert the brush into the chamber and twist.

    Step 5: set aside the brush and run a dry patch with the jag through the barrel to remove deposits loosened by the brush. use a new patch when one gets too fouled, and continue until patch comes out clean.

    Step 6: inspect bore. hold end of barrel up towards (but not directly at) a light source and look through the barrel. there should be no rough areas... every plane should look smooth and glossy. if not, repeat steps 1, 3, and 5 but do not bother to wait between steps 1 and 3 at this point unless fouling is excessive. repeat step 4 if fouling is present.

    Step 7: when all excess lubricant is removed from the action, apply a dab of TW-25B to a Q-tip and rub on friction surfaces and springs. For the Sig, this would be the guide rails fore and aft, hammer/main spring (remove the grips), trigger contact at right-aft of weapon where the trigger bar engages the sear (under right grip), trigger pivot pin, sear spring, firing pin safety block, and extractor. rub the grease on, then rub in the grease with the Q-tip so that you see the sheen of lubrication, but not thick enough to look white.

    Step 8 (optional; for storage): if you know you're not going to shoot the gun in a few months, or you live in a humid environment, run a patch soaked in CLP down the bore to leave a coating of oil to protect the bore from rust. do this with the outside of the barrel also and the bolt face. all other areas should be properly coated or consist of non-ferrous alloy and do not need the oil coating. JUST BE SURE TO REMOVE ALL EXCESS OIL IN AND OUT OF THE GUN PRIOR TO FIRING. if you dont, you may incure reliability issues and increased fouling of parts.


    this is just my own process of gun cleaning. i clean all the guns i shoot as soon as i get home from the range and before they go back in the safe. if it sits, the fouling will solidify and become harder to remove over time (weeks, not hours). i'm just anal about clean guns (it's a military thing).
     
  20. eWRXshun

    eWRXshun hai

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    i used to have an AR-15 and hopefully soon enough these DPMS forged lowers will be built into 2 more. i cleaned the AR the same way.
     
  21. 7

    7 First comes smiles, then lies. Last is gunfire.

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    yeah I was thinking you were cleaning a bolt action and it really threw me off :o :hs:
     
  22. Vatoloco

    Vatoloco In a pinch, though, you could jam it into someone'

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    I spray CLP on EVERYTHING. Then I run a bore snake through the barrel. Lastly, I wipe it all off. That's it, done!
     

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