Golf Brakes... AGAIN!?

Discussion in 'OT Driven' started by OniMinion, May 1, 2007.

  1. OniMinion

    OniMinion ...recalls when this forum was actually about cars OT Supporter

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    Hello all!

    I have replaced my brakes with EBC pads and sloted rotors, The rims are brand new and balanced... with that said...

    I am still getting a vibration when braking, any ideas on what it could be?

    The brakes are new, the pads new, the wheels and tires are new....?:rolleyes:

    So why won't it work right!?:wtc:
     
  2. Mjolnir

    Mjolnir WHM6D > *

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    Ball joint? Loose CV joint? Bad strut? Worn steering rack? Bad balance job? loose caliper mounting bolt? Incorrectly torqued wheel?
     
  3. deusexaethera

    deusexaethera OT Supporter

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    Definitely get your upper control arms checked out. Also, give your brakes 1000 miles to get properly broken-in. (EBC says 500, but only because 1000 is too big of a number and the marketing guys got scared.) If they're still vibrating under moderate use, hassle EBC to give you extra shims for the pads that don't have them already.

    I have 5000 miles on my EBC pads and rotors and I still get a nice deep thrumming sound when I stomp on the brakes -- slotted rotors just do that.
     
  4. OniMinion

    OniMinion ...recalls when this forum was actually about cars OT Supporter

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    Thanks for the replies, I'll check into all suggested ideas. Honestly, I am concerned it is the suspension now! :wtcj:
     
  5. deusexaethera

    deusexaethera OT Supporter

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    I don't know how much of the suspension design is the same between the Golf and the Passat, but I'm guessing it's a fair amount because VW loves to reuse parts even when they're not well-suited for the job -- case in point: the upper control arms on my 1999 Passat are the same as in the Jetta, except the Passat weighs something like 500-700lbs more.

    If you have to get the suspension serviced, suck it up and get both sides done at once unless there's obvious reason to believe that one side is considerably more worn than the other, such as if there are debris impact scars on one control arm. Consider buying "Meyle Heavy Duty"-brand replacement parts; Meyle makes a lot of the OEM suspension and steering bits for VW, and in recent years they wised up and introduced a bolt-on heavy-duty line of replacement parts that actually stand up to real-world use for more than two years.
     
  6. dr.zed

    dr.zed DR.ZED OT Supporter

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    The hub/wheel bearing has ever been changed before?

    Did you wire wheel down the mounting flange between the face of the rotor and the back of the wheel? Make sure both surfaces are sanded down REAL well. You're torquing your wheels to spec?

    There are runout meters to check the rotor. You basically torque down the rotor with two lug nuts and then put the runout meter (looks just like what you'd measure end play on an engine) on the rotor and spin it.

    I've had an MKIV Golf which I drove to 280,000 kms on the ORIGINAL front brakes, rotors and pads. They only started vibrating around 230,000 kms.

    Replaced the rear pads twice though.
     

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