GUN Glock crew; technical question.

Discussion in 'On Topic' started by Market Garden, Mar 22, 2009.

  1. What is supposed to limit the rearward travel of the slide? As I was cleaning my G29 this morning, I noticed it looks like the part at the front of the slide where the recoil spring goes actually impacts the frame to limit its rearward movement. I only have 1 other Glock here, so I stripped it down to check and it has the same marks from where the slide impacts the frame. Now, there's no damage or anything, I'm just wondering if that's how it's supposed to work.
     
  2. The recoil spring doesn't reach its bind height before the slide hits the frame.
     
  3. Cool. I get all anal about these things. :mamoru:

    I tried the original spring the gun came with, my Wolff 21# spring, and another Glock replacement spring. They all do the same thing.
     
  4. I guess they figure that by the time the slide impacts the frame it's moving slowly enough that it won't do any damage.
     
  5. dpixel8

    dpixel8 New Member

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    don't ever use more than a couple drops to lube it also
     
  6. I just put a small amount of lube in the slide rails, a dab in the barrel lug, and a small amount on the connector.
     
  7. ThomasAJ

    ThomasAJ New Member

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    i think i must over lube. i use ALOT on everything
     
  8. yar1182

    yar1182 New Member

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    I run my guns wet.
     
  9. dpixel8

    dpixel8 New Member

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    they hardly need ANY lube at all
     
  10. ZCP M3

    ZCP M3 Active Member

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    How much is enough on a glock? I'm running a light coat of Slide Glide on the rails & connector, and a light coat of oil on the barrel.
     
  11. dpixel8

    dpixel8 New Member

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    too much. 3 dabs in 3 different places (can't tell you teh exact spots right now off the top of my head), that's it. fuck the barrel
     
  12. cabriolet

    cabriolet ...

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    Full compression of the recoil spring and the locking block.

    (That's why the 1st Gen XD's had issues with the locking block cracking, which is why they now have relief cuts in them.)
     
  13. The recoil spring doesn't reach its bind height before the slide contacts the frame. And the locking block just pulls the barrel down, it doesn't have anything to do with limiting the slide's movement. It seems to be the case that it's normal for the slide to make contact with the frame.
     
  14. cabriolet

    cabriolet ...

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    Sure, frame contact is frame contact. :shrug:
     
  15. affende

    affende Resident 4X4 Elitest Prick

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    look in the glock manual .... it shows you exactly where to lube your glock ..

    i run mine as dry as possible ... a drop on the slide rails and wipe the excess, rub the barrel lug with a oiled rag, and a drop on the connector/trigger assembly ...

    off the top of my head, thats all it calls for.
     
  16. Am I missing something?
     
  17. dpixel8

    dpixel8 New Member

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    yeah...was at my office and didn't feel like looking it up or remembering exactly where :mamoru:
     
  18. affende

    affende Resident 4X4 Elitest Prick

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    [​IMG]
     
  19. oakback

    oakback New Member

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    When I shot after my 1st cleaning, my glasses had brake free all over them, I could feel it spray my face with each shot. I use less now.
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2009
  20. zumin3k

    zumin3k New Member

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    What is the benefit in running Glocks so dry, compared to running them a little "too" wet?
     
  21. sqwirl

    sqwirl New Member

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    I'm still in the militec camp with my lube. I'm sure there is probably better out there, I just never explored.

    My lube regimen for Glock's is a little dab on each of the 4 rails/lug and wipe off the excess, and then then I dab a q-tip in militec grease and put a very scant amount on the connector and the tip of the striker that contacts the connector. This has worked great for me other than with carry guns. I cannot for the life of me keep a build up of lint out of the trigger spring/connector area so I usually run that area dry on my carry guns.
     
  22. sprite

    sprite Active Member

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    I've run mine just about dripping wet and just about bone dry and they ran fine in both cases. However, when it comes to cleaning if you run it dry then you have some carbon build up to take care of. If it was run wet then you're digging a fine muck of dirt,sand and lint mixed with oil out of every crack for an hour before you finally say fuck it and hose it down with Gun Scrubber and blow it out with compressed air. Basically, keep lube out of the striker channel and lube the rest of it however you want.
     
  23. zumin3k

    zumin3k New Member

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    Ok, thanks. I've always run mine a little more wet than recommended and never had a problem, but still good to know.
     
  24. cabriolet

    cabriolet ...

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    No, just agreeing with you. I was thinking the Glock's locking block had frame rails on it like the XD's, I've never paid close enough attention to the Glock. :o
     
  25. affende

    affende Resident 4X4 Elitest Prick

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    dry is usually better ...

    as stated, it can cause problems with the cycling or firing .... but mainly, its just unnecessary to run it wet.

    If a car only calls for 87 octane, and there is no increase in performance or mileage with running 93 octane .... why waste the resources to run 93?

    will it help it to run wet? doubt it.

    will it hurt it to run wet? possibly.
     

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