FRK Fuck Machine Build Plans

Discussion in 'Vaginarium' started by pdb574, Sep 5, 2007.

  1. pdb574

    pdb574 New Member

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    Anyone know where I could download / find some basic plans on how to build a fuck machine? I seen the machines you can buy but i'm pretty handy :naughty: and I think I can build one of these suckers or fuckers for that matter for less money. I have a few ideas but would like to see some plans. I searched google and came up with nothing.
     
  2. Blade

    Blade Time to swolercize

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    attach dildo to drill....

    /thread
     
  3. DAN513

    DAN513 OT Supporter

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    you can get some of them pretty cheap, less than $500. Is it worth that much for you to try and build your own?
     
  4. springy101

    springy101 When god comes and calls me to his kingdom, I'll t

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    :bowdown:


    cant forget the sawzall
     
  5. bummerkit

    bummerkit New Member

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    :werd:

    what kind of fuck machine are you looking for? lots of differnt kinds...
     
  6. pdb574

    pdb574 New Member

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    The GF wants to experiment a little. She wants to blow me while getting fucked. She usually uses a dildo on herself but wants to enjoy it more. She also has no interest in another male joining us so I proposed a fuck machine. Something with a electric oscillating motor and hand control, so the drill and sawzall options are out...:nono:
     
  7. MrSlappyPants

    MrSlappyPants New Member

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    I don't have any actual experience with anything like this, but I love design challenges, and from an engineering standpoint, it seems really pretty simple and straightforward.

    Basically, you want an in-and-out motion, with variable speeds and depths I would assume? Really all you'll need is a motor, flywheel, and shaft (think of it like a piston on your car... but with an adjustable stroke length). Essentially you'll want a DC motor attached to a variable power supply (this will give you your speed adjustment). On the end of the motors shaft you attach a flywheel (basically any solid metal disc, or sheet, attached at its center of rotation). This is going to be where the shaft for the in-out motion will be attached. To this flywheel, you can drill holes every half-inch or so from the center outwards (this will be so you can adjust your stroke length. Your stroke length will equal distance you attached the push-rod from the center of rotation times 2. ie. the farther out from center you attach your push-rod, the longer the stroke length. If you attach the push-rod an inch from center, you will have a two inch stroke). Attach your push-rod to the final shaft using a u-joint type coupler. Then fix the final shaft's range of motion to either a vertical or horizontal axis using a bushing or two. Finally, attach your phallus of choice to the end of that fixed-motion shaft, and you're done.

    As for the specifics of the supplies, the easiest way to do it would probably be a 115 or 130 volt DC gear motor, rated for continuous duty. For torque, I would think anything with 20ft/lbs+ would be acceptable, with 30ft/lbs or more being overkill. max RPM... probably anything in the 200 ball park I would guess? That's over 3 in-out motions per second... If any OP actually reads this post this far... would that be fast enough? As far as the motor's HP... doesn't need a lot. Probably anything 1/8th HP give or take should do (anything more than like 1/2 HP is definite overkill). Such motor's are fairly common and can be found at industrial suppliers, or even ebay. For the motor's wiring, use a grounded electrical plug (the 3-prong type) and wire the ground directly to the motor's ground (or chassis). Wire the remaining two AC wires to any variable speed control (a cheap readily available one would be like a 5 amp variable fan speed control, available at any home improvement store). Wire the variable speed control's output to a bridge rectifier input (something like 25 amp). Then wire the bridge rectifier outputs to the respective inputs on the DC motor. You can also wire a reservoir capacitor in parallel (across the positive and negative wires between the bridge rectifier and motor) to smooth out the response of the motor in low-speed.

    I would guess if you wanted to build this all yourself, you could probably do it for $150 or so, and a few hours of time to construct a base for the unit, assemble it all, and wire the whole thing.
     
  8. pdb574

    pdb574 New Member

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    Excellent! I was on the same page just didn't think of the u-joint coupling. I had the same thought on pricing. I think I can do it under $150.00 some of the parts I already have. (including the dildo...)

    I'll have to come up with an idea on the base, has to be portable and adjustable too.

    thanks! I needed someone else's opinion and thoughts.
     
  9. skazoo

    skazoo OT Supporter

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    for the base just use some square metal tubing. It would be easy to make it adjustable in height if you use the metal tubing because you could drill holes every inch or less and then if you need to lower it or raise it you could use a pin which attached the tube or tubes to the motor/piston.
     
  10. wing_nut74

    wing_nut74 New Member

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    For some reason this made me picture the game Mousetrap.
    Like you would have a floor fan with a string tied to it, pulling a door open and closed, and that tied to ......
    you get the idea.
     
  11. Mr. Monopoly

    Mr. Monopoly OT Supporter

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    I would just say be VERY careful while you're building. I'm no expert in electronics or anything, but I know that if your machine shocks your wife wile tearing up her cervix (unless she's into that), she's going to be one unhappy camper.
     
  12. Diesel66

    Diesel66 My standards for women is like rent-a-centers stan OT Supporter

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    but can you imagine how funny the 911 call will be ?
     
  13. Cranky

    Cranky New Member

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    We built one. We used a piece of unistrut, a ball bearing draw slide, a piece of actuator linkage and a window motor from a late model chevy truck.

    you bolt the motor to the strut with a u-bolt. Use a variac to speed up or slow the motor then transform it to 12vac. Buy a bridged rectifier from radio shack to make is 12vdc.

    the actuator linkage clamps onto the shaft and at the end of the linkage we bolted a rod. The other end of the rod bolts to the draw slide. we bolt the slide to the unit strut and attach a dildo.

    The heaviest part of the machine is the variac and its not bad. The machine is quite and has more than enough power. It is about 2 1/2' x 8".

    I know there isn't much detail here but i'll try and get pics. It is pretty easy.
     
  14. pdb574

    pdb574 New Member

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    love to see the pics
     

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