first time polishing

Discussion in 'That'll Buff Right Out' started by dirteemac, Apr 14, 2009.

  1. dirteemac

    dirteemac hey, how are you?

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    its was nice out last week so I made my brother help me polish and wax the ride. we washed with onr and then clayed and then I busted out the udm and put a meguiars yellow pad on and some meg's scratch and swirl remover. this was my first time ever polishing and using a udm. I applied some polish to the pad and set the udm to 5 and then started to to polish. after going up and down and side to side on a portion of the hood a few times I stopped to inspect my work and it seemed like some of the swirls were still there and it was all streaky. I used a terry cloth towel to try and remove the rest of the polish but it just seemed to move the streaks around and I couldn't get them out. I tried using s100 shine enhancing cleanser to remove the residue but it didn't really help so then i just went over the rest of the ride with the polish, going over it with a mf towel afterward and then applied some opti-seal and then a coat of s100 wax. in the the end the car ended up looking pretty good but I'm wondering if I was polishing corretcly or if I need to use something different next time. I'm thinking maybe some optimum polish and a different pad. any input it appreciated.
     
  2. Scottwax

    Scottwax Making detailing great again! Moderator

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    Not sure what polish Meguiars 'scratch and swirl remover" is.

    How much polish did you use?
    Did you apply any pressure?
    Did you work the polish until it began to clear out?

    Throw your terry cloth towels in the trash and ONLY use microfiber on your paint.
     
  3. dirteemac

    dirteemac hey, how are you?

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    my bad i guess it's just called 'swirl remover 2.0' I put a ring around the pad about 1" far from the edge like it says somewhere in this forum. I guess i have a tendency to overapply product out of some fear that using too little will cause the dry pad to scuff up the paint or something. I applied a lot of pressure to the point where the udm would almost stop spinning. I did one pass moving from top to bottom and then another moving from right no left following a tutorial video I watched somewhere. I didn't realize that maybe you had to work it in more than that. The only reason I had any terry cloth towels on hand is because I also wanted to try the "by hand" method.

    "Use a terry cloth towel, folded into 1/8ths size to form a thick pad and so you can apply even pressure. Use moderate pressure, enough to build up some warmth on the towel and work the product into the paint until it looks nearly clear and dry, then wipe off immediately. Refold the towel and move on to the next section. "

    I did this on one of the mirrors, (not the actual mirror, the painted part) and it made a nice squeaky noise and left no residue. I considered doing the whole rest of the car by by hand but was worried my bro might get fed up with all the time it would take and go inside and play video games lol. I guess what I'm trying to understand is how do I get the same result from the "by hand" method using the udm?
     
  4. Scottwax

    Scottwax Making detailing great again! Moderator

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    You need to make several passes with the UDM and #9 should pretty much clear out. If it is hard to remove, you are using too much or not working it long enough.
     
  5. dirteemac

    dirteemac hey, how are you?

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    alright. thanks for the info. I think another problem was that the hood was in direct sunlight because I wanted to see what progress I was making and after doing some research I think that may have been a problem too.

    I think I might try some menzerna stuff next time.
     
  6. Scottwax

    Scottwax Making detailing great again! Moderator

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    Meguiars products can be iffy in the sun. If you want a product line that works well in the full sun, then Optimum is your best bet.
     
  7. StuDLei

    StuDLei Death before Dishonor

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    Is there a thread around here that describes how to polish? I've never done it before with a rotary and Im about to start. Planning on using Optimum products because they seem the to be the best all around brand by far around here.. and Ive used ONR and Optimum wax too with great results.

    Anyways I have no idea where or how much product to apply..how long to work it. How to know if Ive worked it long enough. Do I have to tape shit off?? Are there certain parts where I can't use the rotary? Say Im polishing the hood and I knick the headlights or something with the rotary..are they going to be fucked? Whats a good polish to start with??.. ie something thats easy or a "beginners" polish sort of speak so I can get used to what to expect. This is all I can think of right now, didn't want to start a new thread btw.
     
  8. Scottwax

    Scottwax Making detailing great again! Moderator

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    There is a rotary demo here using Optimum products: http://www.optimumcarcare.com/detailarticles.htm

    I'd get a junkyard fender or two to practice using the rotary on.

    1. Once the pad is primed with product, less is more. If the pad is hopping or skipping, you need more product.

    2. Yes, tape shit off.

    3. Lower the speed and pressure over ridges, edges of fenders, etc.

    4. Headlights hold up to the rotary pretty well.

    5. Optimum's polishes work fine via rotary. OP II is pretty much hologram free on medium to hard paints, Optimum Finish and a finishing pad works well too.

    It just takes a lot of practice.
     
  9. StuDLei

    StuDLei Death before Dishonor

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    what do you tape off to be more specific? What do you mean by primed with product exactly? Like its a used pad or are you just refering to just after you put product on and got it working? How much should i put on the new pad to start?

    Buddies are gonna let me practice on their cars.

    What kind of tape?

    thanks.
     
  10. StuDLei

    StuDLei Death before Dishonor

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    Ill watch the vid in a min..preciate it.
     
  11. xSteveO

    xSteveO Guest

    thanks for the link, do you use Optiseal? My bottle of NPP is getting low
     
  12. Scottwax

    Scottwax Making detailing great again! Moderator

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    Tape of trim, emblems, etc. Anything you don't want to get damaged or potentially knock off the car. Some people tape up edges too, but as long as you don't go over them at high rpms and pressure you will be okay.

    Primed basically means the pad has adequate product dispersion over the entire surface. Once you have that (takes a panel or two), you don't need much additional product per panel. You can lightly mist the pad with a quick detail spray when starting to help it prime faster.

    3M painter's tape.

    You might want to peruse the machine polishing forum at http://autopia.org
     

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