First Sound system for Integra

Discussion in 'OT Technology' started by Guest, May 12, 2002.

  1. Guest

    Guest Guest

  2. LegendTodd

    LegendTodd Guest

    whats your budget?
    subwoofer?
     
  3. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Budget is prolly around $1k give or take a couple hundred... as I said, I'm not looking for anything spectacular, just wanna enjoy the ride more with better sounding music. Prolly don't want a sub-woofer, not into all that base, altho, I'm always open to suggestions.

    Thanks,
    Derek
     
  4. Hpower281

    Hpower281 Guest

    Boston Acoustic co-axles....front and rear. I would invest in a 10" sub even if you dont want base. You just want the Boston's to grab the highs and mids. Too much bass and the speakers will distort. If you don't want alot of base but a clean sound. Just slap one 10" JL audio W0 if you have a two door and a 12" if you have a 4 dr. Get a decent Kenwood or MTX mono amp to run the sub and you are done.

    Oh, btw...your stereo will only sound as good as your radio will allow it. So keeping the factory head unit will hold u back a bit.
     
  5. LegendTodd

    LegendTodd Guest

    I highly reccomend changing your cd player and at your budget it is still feasible to do so. Hpower is right that your stock unit will be holding you back.


    nak 45z
    Crystal CPe 60
    USX 4085
    OZ Audio 250L
    No rear fill. If you insist just keep the stock speakers in.

    All that is roughly $750 which leaves money over for wiring, a nice set of RCA's, MDF to build a baffle and a sub box, and misc tools you may need to do the install. You can even price match and you might be able to find some of the items cheaper, but the site I have listed covers a factory warranty which is nice. And remember, your system will only sound as good as the install so do it right the first time! Need any help on that end we can probably help you out too. Properly installed thats a great budget SQ system, your friends will think you spent a lot more for the accuracy and clarity you will get....:big grin:
     
  6. Guest

    Guest Guest

    THANKS

    LegendTodd and Hpower,

    THANKS! Damn, that's a lot of great info. I'll definintely upgrade my head unit... speaking of which, is there a specific reason you recommend the nak 45z? say as opposed to some of the other brands (ie. panasonic, sony, kenmore etc.). how do these compare against the nakamichi? some looked much nicer in MHO, but i'm not sure that translates into equal or better performance.

    LegendTodd, so if i simply get everything you listed, then i'll be all set?

    Thanks again for all the input and feedback guys!

    -derek

    Also, what are boston acoustic co-axles? and how do i install the sub? i apologize for my ignorance.
     
  7. Hpower281

    Hpower281 Guest

    Boston Acoustic (name brand) co-axles are small speakers that go in the door/back dash of the car. The contain a cone (5 1/4" or 6 1/2" usually) and a tweeter mounted on top. co = two.

    mount the sub in a seal enclosure.
     
  8. BobG

    BobG Fuchs.

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    Totally false dude. Sound vs sound, stock headunits are every bit as good as any aftermarket out there. The only thing you get with aftermarkets are the nifty features. ie. preamp outputs, nifty DAC converters (overrated if you ask me), etc. At normal levels the distortion of OEM or aftermarket decks is well below the detection threshold of any listener. If the outputs are interfaced correctly virtually any CD deck can be used to drive a quality system and result in good sound.

    Ira Senoff ran his stock Jeep radio at the 1999 IASCA World Finals and placed 2nd in his class. How's that for sound quality??
     
  9. Hpower281

    Hpower281 Guest


    so splicing into the wires to get a signal for the RCA adapters for the amp is as good as pluggin RCAs directly into the HU? Sorry, I disagree. What about HP & LPF or subwoofer frequency/power controls? A factory deck doesnt prevent low frequencies from distorting your 5 1/4's in the doors. Usually a factory unit will only put out about 11-15watts to each speaker....Hardly enough for replacement 100w boston's. Wouldn't you agree?

    Just backin up what I say....


    Oh, if you want to start getting technical about electronics, I'll be glad to. Served in the USN as a Electronic Technician.
     
  10. BobG

    BobG Fuchs.

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    If done correctly, there's no reason why it shouldn't sound as good.

    Exactly. He said he wanted to upgrade "speakers etc" so I would expect that to mean he wants amplifiers as well. A head unit doesn't need onboard crossovers. That's what the xovers on the amps are for. If you really don't wanna use the xovers on the amps, you can go ahead and buy an external unit like AudioControl, Rane (adapted to 12v of course), etc.. Insignificant point bud.

    Absolutely. However, see above argument. With external amplifiers, this is another insignificant point.

    Likewise :big grin:

    Cool! :bigthumb:
     
  11. 04

    04 Guest

    Even if your not into bass I would reccomend using a subwoofer. In a car, the flimsy metal door panels just dont make good enclosures for bass speakers. a 10" subwoofer in a small sealed box would definatly improve your audio system.

    I just finished an install on a 1994 integra and we added 6.5 speakers to the door and amplified them. It was better than stock, but the bass was still poor IMHO from the rattling doors, if you really dont want a sub, you are going to have to dampen the hell out of your existing doors. With your budget I highly reccomend a sub.

    Since you already have a cd player, I guess you only need amps and speakers right? If so heres what I reccomend. USacoustics 85x4 amplifier. http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/usacoustics.html. Run the front 2 channels to a component set, and the rears bridged to a sub. For speakers how about the focal polyflex components? http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/focal.html And then for a sub, how about a Dayton Titanic MK2 10"??? http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...4&St3=28801931&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=91986&DID=7 You can fit it in a tiny .5 cuft box and still get great sound quality.

    Listen to BobG he is knowledgeable in car audio. You do not need to upgrade your existing head unit, if it is stock you might need a decent line output convertor though. I agree with LegendTodd on his reccomendations on the US acoustics amp of course and the Crystal components are probably your best bet, they are an amazing price. I do not agree with his reccomendation of spending a lot on RCA cables or wiring for that matter. The guy's Integra I did an install on only needed around 20 dollars of wiring equipment!!! That includes my homemade RCA's, 8awg power cable, etc. If you want some good Rca cables, you can make your own easily if you have a soldering iron and a power drill. Msg me if you want to know how. I would not advise spending big bucks on wiring/speaker wire/rca's because they do not make an audible difference in sound except for noise rejection. For that matter, neither do amplifiers, I bet BobG will agree with me on this one!!! HEHEHE :bigthumb:
     
    Last edited by a moderator: May 24, 2002
  12. 04

    04 Guest

    Hpower, I think you missed his point. He was going to use the factory head unit's outputs to be converted by a LOC to an acceptable input range for AN EXTERNAL AMPLIFIER. The only thing the factory unit would be doing is driving the LOC. The power demands on that arent that high.

    Now another issue to be brought up is that that the factory deck might have equilization to make the stock speakers sound better. That would not make the new speakers sound so good. He might need a 30band EQ to fix the problem in that case, and that can be really expensive. So he MIGHT be better off buying an aftermarket headunit.
     
  13. BobG

    BobG Fuchs.

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    Thanks for the props bud. I've listened critically to probably hundreds of cars. Everything from the first time DIYer to World Champs like Rob Rice, Steven Head and Gary Biggs. However, if I had to pick something to improve on, it'd be my technical knowledge (physics, etc). I'll be the first to admit that. I'm no dummy, but I'm far from a David Navone. ;)

    Back on topic, I know for a fact that Declo head units have compression circuitry in them that works like a "LOUD" button only non selectable. It's intended to boost certain frequencies to compensate for road, wind or engine noise. That could be...well...assy for a competition system or anyone who appreciates music as much as we do. :big grin:

    Cheers!

    P.S. Hpower, we may not agree on car audio, but we sure as hell agree on motorcycles. What a beauty! :bigthumb:
     
  14. Hpower281

    Hpower281 Guest

    yea, all the things you guys have mentioned are very true and points have been taken.

    Couple of things I did want to mention tho....

    personally I dont like having too many amps in the car to were I have to add a cap or second battery....I like to go fast so more sh*t in the car = slower passes. And if you aren't in competition I would thing everyone wouldn't want to weigh down their car or not spend the money on these things if they didnt have to.

    Another point about keeping the factory unit and adding other componets to the system....while improving controlability/tunability, adding things like signal processors, EQs, etc.....noise comes with it...the more you have, the more noise seems to get in the system. I always say...keep it simple stupid (KISS). If you have any of these things built into the HU, then thats one less componet that can bring in noise. Anyways, you guys know ur shit.... :bigthumb:

    p.s. - bobg .... thanks , i love my R6!!!
     

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