First generation mustang crew v. need help.

Discussion in 'OT Driven' started by PanzerAce, Mar 9, 2007.

  1. PanzerAce

    PanzerAce Active Member

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    So I am seriously considering buying a first generation faskback, but I was wondering how easy they are to modify? I want eventually to have it at GT350/500 power levels, but I was wondering how much that would cost, and how easy/difficult it would be to pull off (assuming just me and some friends working on it). Thanks for the help guys.

    (Oh, and other than the engine, what else would you recomend replacing?)
     
  2. Ronin

    Ronin Guest

    it depends on the condition you get it in

    if u have a lot of moeny to spend it gets pretty easy

    a lot of money:
    302 block with 331 rotating assembly, forged internals, u can supercharge it and run 10s or better, (or turbo whatever fits your fancy)

    get one thats in basically shitty condition with a decent body

    its really easy to spend a lot of money, if u just want performance and nothing else u can stroke it to 331, aluminum heads, ignition, etc, ur prolly looking at 350+hp (prolly nearing 400 ish)

    upgrade belt driven components to electric drive ones (water pump, fuel pump, cooling) and u will get a good chunk of hp from reduction in parasitic power loss

    for easy and something simple just make sure the block is fine, a lot of people selling old cars either have POS that need to be restored or partially or fully restored ones, if u get 1 that has a recent rebuild ull be paying a higher initial price, so if u get one with a rebuilt motor hope they use good quality internals :\

    these cars are really easy to work on though, but to get 300-350+ hp like you eventually want look to spend 4-7k atleast restomoding ur performance shit if its a stock engine that has been rebuilt

    if it needs a rebuild add 2k+ (stroker)

    the base stock 289 2 barrel was 200hp, 4 barrel was 225hp, hi-po was like 271 or something

    hi-po differences taken from a car forum i googled up:

    [FONT=Verdana, Arial]Aside from a few minor durability differences, the only performance enhancements over the 'regular' 289's were increased compression, solid lifter cam, mechanical advance distributer, and better flowing exhaust manifolds. (351W style) It used an Autolite 4100 carb and a cast iron intake. It also had standard sized ports and valves in its cylinder heads.

    [/FONT]
    [FONT=Verdana, Arial]id say with todays tech u can easily do 300 with bolt ons, with some hardcore aluminum heads u can prolly rape on through 325-350

    i was going to do a full top engine assembly but i dont have the money to throw at that right now, i decided to just be more basic and when i get crazy im doing an engine swap and run EFI and aiming for 400-450 hp atleast


    if this post was choppy its because i edited it a few times and added things here and there, hope some of it helped
    [/FONT]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 9, 2007
  3. PanzerAce

    PanzerAce Active Member

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    Some of it helped. I guess it would help if I was more specific about what I was going to use it for. I would be using this for daily driving, but would also be having fun on the weekends.

    Would it be worth it to get one with basically a shit engine/drive train/etc (but a decent interior/exterior) and just buy a completely new engine/drive train for it?

    Also, I was looking at various engine sizes, and I notice that there is a HUGE range in displacements. Do they all mount the same way (or with off the shelf brackets) or am I going to have to get custom engine mounts?
     
  4. August Burns

    August Burns New Member

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    ive helped my dad build 3 so far, 65 coupe,66 vert,66 vert, If we were looking for one, I wouldnt care about the engine, i would just look at how solid the body is since you are going to replace basically everything. floor pans rotting out is very common.

    heres the latest one.
    http://www.mustangmods.com/data/828/mustang66_large.jpg
     
  5. PanzerAce

    PanzerAce Active Member

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    :cool:

    Actually, if you have AIM, pm me your sn, since it looks like you would know what to look for in terms of specifics :o
     
  6. Ronin

    Ronin Guest

    what kind of wheels are those in that pic?

    oh yeah forgot to mention floor pans, mine were toast, my new ones are completely bedlined
     
  7. matrix243

    matrix243 Earn this. Earn it.

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    god, have fun finding a half respectible fastback. atleast around here they're hard to come by. they start around 10-15k. brothers neighbor bought one for 3200. totally unkept, no good panels, floors gone, interior extremely weathered from busted windows, and being parked outside.

    atleast there's nothing that can't be replaced. floorpan would be the hardest I would think.
     
  8. matrix243

    matrix243 Earn this. Earn it.

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    personally I'd find a half restored rolling chassis with no drivetrain. found a good deal on my 68 coupe find lots of deals on motors and c4's are dime a dozen. 4-speed toploader or t5 might take a bit.

    brothers selling his low mile 5.0HO for a good price. just need a t5.
     
  9. matrix243

    matrix243 Earn this. Earn it.

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  10. PanzerAce

    PanzerAce Active Member

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    :cool:

    well, there are not alot of fastbacks for sale generally, but one thing that I have noticed about the bay area/CA car market in general is that whenever there is something for sale, it generally is in far better condition than it would have been normally.
     
  11. PanzerAce

    PanzerAce Active Member

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  12. matrix243

    matrix243 Earn this. Earn it.

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    could be ok. 10k is still a bit considering they sold a ton of coupes in 68.

    any engine shots?

    check all structural points. shock towers, torque boxes, floor pan is alot of work to replace. tap around to check for steel body panels.
     

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