Few System Questions.

Discussion in 'OT Technology' started by QS, Aug 15, 2002.

  1. QS

    QS Guest

    Im looking to finish up my system, Im adding another amp to my setup, currently running two 10" JL subs pushed by a boss audio systems amp.
    My new amp is also boss audio, my first question, is what gauge wire should i up grade to 4 or 2? An this would go from the battery to my amp? Correct?

    Also would a "6 Farad Stiffening Capacitor" be suficent enough to protect my alt. an battery?
    2amps around 1500W...

    Thanks, an dont flame on the Boss Audio. :big grin: I've had no problems with them an the shit i do have is nice:p
     
  2. 04

    04 Guest

    Ok, first of all, your amplifiers do not have an output capability of 1.5kW. Even at full clipping I doubt they would be able to produce a total of even 1kW. I would assume your maximum power draw would be no higher than 1.2kW, assuming rather inefficient amplifiers. You really arent giving me much to work with here....

    If you are already running 8awg power wire, that MAY be sufficient. I have no idea what the true power draw of your amplifiers is, and even if you give me the "power ratings" of those amplifiers they are probably still inaccurate. So basically if you are already running 8awg power wire, you might be fine, you will just have to see. If you get significant dimming of your lights, then it would be wise to upgrade to 4awg.

    A capacitor in the situation you want to use it would be WORTHLESS. Do not waste your money.
     
  3. QS

    QS Guest

    The wattage I listed was just the list wattage, that the comapny says their pushing. I know there not pushing that much.
    An please explain to me why a capacitor would be worthless in my set up...
     
  4. 04

    04 Guest

    Ok, here is why the capacitor does nothing. First it is wired in parallel with the amplifier. So you could ALMOST say that it works like a little battery. The car's battery feeds the capacitor. The capacitor when first connected has 0 charge (well it should). Over time the capacitor builds up a charge between its plates, slowly raising the voltage. It stops gaining voltage when the source be it the alternator or battery has reached its maximum voltage. So your cap wont get any higher voltage than the source, usually no more than 14.4v. So now our happy capacitor is charged. He is good this way for 3 reasons. First, he can filter out the DC power so that it remains a CONSTANT voltage, rather than dropping a bit here and there. The second reason is the reason why people buy them for their cars. It is because it makes their lights stop dimming, which makes it seem like everything is ok! Unfortunatly this is not always the case. If your music was dynamic and had bass tones that were very high amplitude, for a very short time, the capacitor would be great, because it wouldnt have time to have too large of a voltage drop. Unfortunatly, the bass "hits" in many rap songs are constant and are high amplitude and sustain for a long time. Therefore when cranked to the limit the capacitor does not have any time to recharge between "bass hits" causing the voltage drop to remain, effectivly almost like the capacitor is not even there. 3rd, it can filter out noise.

    If you listen to music with a VERY high dynamic range with tremendous transient peaks, such as Orchestral, then perhaps a capacitor would help you, assuming you listen to your music at deafening levels. Otherwise, I really think you could spend your money elsewhere, like upgrading your alternator. You might be able to get it rewound for the same price as a cap. You will just have to look into it.
     
  5. QS

    QS Guest

    Thanks for the explaination. Im not drawing too much current, I just wanted to kill an chance of having my lights dimming...
    So going to a 4gau wire could help this to correct? Instead of the 8...
    I think im just going to buy a deep cell battery.
     
  6. 04

    04 Guest

    :confused: If your lights are dimming, then you ARE drawing too much current. If they arent dimming right now, they most likely will not when you add the extra amplifier. You dont need another battery unless you plan on playing the stereo with the car off for extended periods of time. Right now my suggestion to you would be wire the new amp up with your existing wire, and play your music as loud as you would for a long time, and if there are no problems, then you just saved yourself a lot of time and money.
     
  7. QS

    QS Guest

    My driving lights dont dim, but the clock an the lights from my HU dim when a hard bass note hits...
    I figured with the extra amp, the driving lights would also be affected.
     
  8. 04

    04 Guest

    The new amplifier is to power speakers right? If that is the case, I wouldnt worry about it, the power draw of the speaker amplifier is almost always MUCH lower than that of the subwoofer amplifier. Also, what car do you have, and do you have any idea about the output of the alternator? My suggestion is to install the amplifier, and THEN if you have problems, ask us for help.
     
  9. QS

    QS Guest

    stock alt. is running 80 Amps.
    An yea the new amp is for my upgraded speakers...
    I'll install when I get some money an post how things went.
    Thanks man!:bigthumb:
     
  10. Faygo

    Faygo Got any room in your pocket for a little spare Cha

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    Will the boss amps even accept anything larger than 8 gauge? You would be better off investing in the battery for the reasons stated above. Also what is the total amperage draw of the amps. That should give some indication of what the amps output really is.
     
  11. QS

    QS Guest

    90 watts x 4 RMS
    170 watts x 2 RMS
    Not to sure on what the amps will accept when it comes to the gauge of the wire. user manual says use atleast 8 so im guessing it will be able to take it on.
     
  12. idontgiveashit

    idontgiveashit I eat rice

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    they make magical device called distrobutiion block.
     
  13. QS

    QS Guest

    distrobutiion block.

    Please explain, purpose an roll an in a audio system.
     
  14. QS

    QS Guest

    bump :ugh2:
     
  15. 04

    04 Guest

    All it is is a copper block (usually) brass or gold plated with inputs for a certain gauge wire(s) and outputs.

    For example one might have a distrobution block that has a 4 gauge input and 2 8 gauge outputs. It allows you to run many different amplifiers without needing to run more than one power cable, you can just run one extremely thick cable as opposed to 2 or 3 thinner ones.

    They also allow you to run for instance a 4awg power wire to an amplifier that might not have more than 8awg power inputs.
     

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