Engine rotating assembly for 383 stroker?

Discussion in 'OT Driven' started by BigBadJohn, Jun 1, 2009.

  1. BigBadJohn

    BigBadJohn Pay-back time OT Supporter

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    Looking for an engine rotating assembly to build a 383 stroker
    Id prefer something that didnt need modified or "clearanced"

    Looking for all forged 4340 parts and h-beam connecting rods. Dont want to break the bank, but looking for a mildly decent assy. Maybe Eagle brand or something

    If it comes with pistons, it will be flat tops

    Whats preferred, 5.700" rods or 6.000" rods?

    If there are kits specifically designed for 383 strokers, will the crank journals still need machined, or will the crank's mains have the diameter of a 350 crank?

    Not looking to spend much more than $1500 or so
     
  2. BigBronco

    BigBronco OT Supporter

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    Call eagle. Get their shit with some probe pistons.

    The skirt of the block usually HAS to be clearanced to clear the end of the rod bolts on the 4" stroke.

    The rods are up to your discretion.
     
  3. BigBadJohn

    BigBadJohn Pay-back time OT Supporter

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    Who carries probe pistons? Id like to get some sort of idea how much a set costs
     
  4. BigBadJohn

    BigBadJohn Pay-back time OT Supporter

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    Goddamn. So frustrating.
    Go on summit and theyve got stroker cranks for 350, regular cranks for 350, stroker cranks for 400, regular cranks for 400

    WTF. As if I thought it was hard enough deciding between 5.7 and 6" rods
     
  5. AndyB

    AndyB I love you baby Kaitlyn and Dad

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    I have the scat 9000 crank, with the cheapie scat forged rods and wiesco pistons. It was cheap and it works, the machine shop had no problem with it.

    I always hear 6.0 for NA motors. Your block is going to need work anyways so just have the machine shop clearance the bottom of the block. Any machine shop has done it 11ty billion times.
     
  6. AndyB

    AndyB I love you baby Kaitlyn and Dad

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    After going down the piece it together yourself path. My next motor is going to be a turnkey from either a local builder or mail order. Fuck mixing and matching parts. Yes it's cheaper but can be a huge pain in the ass.
     
  7. AndyB

    AndyB I love you baby Kaitlyn and Dad

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    FOr a daily driver type deal the 5.3 or 6.0 lsx motors out of the pickups are a screaming deal these days.

    I want to put an lQ9 in a 72 pickup or blazer and driver it everyday :coold:
     
  8. BigBadJohn

    BigBadJohn Pay-back time OT Supporter

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    NA Motors?
     
  9. AndyB

    AndyB I love you baby Kaitlyn and Dad

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    naturally aspirated
     
  10. BigBadJohn

    BigBadJohn Pay-back time OT Supporter

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    Wait what stroke are 383 strokers usually supposed to be?
    I saw something about 3.750 inches but the majority of eagle 400 cranks have 4.000" stroke
     
  11. MAD PUNK inDC

    MAD PUNK inDC Sic Semper Tyrannis

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    long rod has lower peak acceleration and reduces stress and friction on the sidewall. However a shorter rod can increase initial intake velocity, and is generally thought to help increase low rpm cylinder filling. For more people this is a small trade off and they never build the engine to fully take advantage of either.
     
  12. MAD PUNK inDC

    MAD PUNK inDC Sic Semper Tyrannis

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    buy a stroker specific crank. You will get standard small block journal size, in either 3.750 or 3.875 inches.
     
  13. AndyB

    AndyB I love you baby Kaitlyn and Dad

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    3.750 is what you are looking for.

    Be sure to buy the rotating assembly as a kit, that way all the parts are pre-matched.
     
  14. AndyB

    AndyB I love you baby Kaitlyn and Dad

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    there are some rotating assemblies that don't require block clearance but the clearance is REALLY REALLY close
     
  15. BigBadJohn

    BigBadJohn Pay-back time OT Supporter

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    I got like every tenth word there :confused:
     
  16. AndyB

    AndyB I love you baby Kaitlyn and Dad

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    3.75" crank + 6.0" rod = the win.
     
  17. CJPA

    CJPA New Member

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    :rofl:
     
  18. BigBadJohn

    BigBadJohn Pay-back time OT Supporter

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  19. MAD PUNK inDC

    MAD PUNK inDC Sic Semper Tyrannis

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    pretty much for the street, but the one place you don't want to short change yourself is in the heads. for the street you want a strong head where the cylinder ports are not huge like a full race head, but instead focus on fast intake velocity at low and mid RPMs rather than peak flow at high engine speeds. Match this to a good cam, and a full roller setup and that should be good for daily use while giving you a great balance of power.
     
  20. MAD PUNK inDC

    MAD PUNK inDC Sic Semper Tyrannis

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    400 and 350 have different crank journal sizes. 2.45 for 350 and most other small blocks, but 2.65 for a 400. Make sure you get a stroker crank for a 350 (aka large journal small block)
     
  21. BigBadJohn

    BigBadJohn Pay-back time OT Supporter

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  22. BigBadJohn

    BigBadJohn Pay-back time OT Supporter

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    Wait. I can get a crank that will fit a 350 and will be clearanced but has the same stroke as a 400 crank?
     
  23. MAD PUNK inDC

    MAD PUNK inDC Sic Semper Tyrannis

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    Not a bad kit. I'm not a big fan of dual plane intakes myself. Intake runners are a bit small at 170cc, but you could always port the heads later if you wanted. I believe that carb is basically a carter which wasn't all that bad either. I'm more partial to q-jets because with a little problem solving (replacing metering rod cam pin with harded steel unit) you get a carb that needs almost zero maintenance. Overall thats not a bad kit, but shop around at other places like Performance Automotive Warehouse (PAW), Jegs, and some of the small online stores. You might be able to find something very simimlar for a better price.
     
  24. AndyB

    AndyB I love you baby Kaitlyn and Dad

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  25. BigBadJohn

    BigBadJohn Pay-back time OT Supporter

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