Dyno Results

Discussion in 'OT Driven' started by RyeLou, Mar 8, 2006.

  1. RyeLou

    RyeLou OT Supporter

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    The runs were done on a Dynapack. For those who aren't familiar with it, they actually connect two pods right to the hubs on each side of the car as opposed to strapping it to a roller. It takes out the variables of tire pressure and wheel weight and stuff like that. I unfortunatly only got 2 good runs in before I started blowing vacuum lines off [​IMG] The third run we didn't know it had happened until after we ran the car. Boost hit 27psi, AFR hit 14.7 and it made 280hp and 360tq, haha.

    The first run:
    263hp
    300tq

    The second run:
    274.5hp
    323.5tq

    [​IMG]

    It was the first time they had dynoed a front wheel drive turbo vehicle, so they had to tweak some things in the dyno program. They made the lead time a little bigger and also set it to hold 3000RPMs for a little longer to compensate for how quick the car builds boost. We were going to change the program a little more, but we had blown the line off and didn't know it yet. We ended up hearing it after the 3rd run and found where it was coming from. We connected everything back together but decided it would be best to stop there. I knew I needed to zip tie my vac. lines, and it's my own fault for not doing it before this. My IC arrived today, so when that goes in I'll zip tie everything together and get a catch can on there.

    Oh, AFR was about 12.3 on all of them (other than the vac. line issue run) but tapered off to about 11.6 by redline.

    *Disclaimer*
    The car doesn't 'qualify' for American Muslce, but there really isn't a forum for it so here it is. I deemed myself able to post this here because I make enough HP, haha. Everyone can now hate on the car (<-- best clue as to what it is)
     
  2. Bloke

    Bloke Banned

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    torque steer?
     
  3. RyeLou

    RyeLou OT Supporter

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    More than enough to keep me happy.
     
  4. Bernout

    Bernout OT Supporter

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    Neon?
     
  5. RyeLou

    RyeLou OT Supporter

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    Yeah, SRT.
     
  6. Kroze

    Kroze Active Member

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    What?
    stock? mods? details are overwhelming
     
  7. RyeLou

    RyeLou OT Supporter

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    I figured nobody else would care enough and would turn this into the "It's just a Neon" thread.

    Mopar Stage 1, AGP wastegate actuator (peak boost 21, hold 17), 3" O2 housing, Needswings downpipe with e-cutout (cut-out open for the runs), short-ram intake, fuel return line. Those are the major ones. Highest AFR is 12.3 and by redline it's around 11.5 or so. To control my AF ratio I only have a map clamp, so I can control what the highest AF ratio is, but I can't control where it's at or what happens before or after it. I'll probably be going to an Apexi S-AFC for a bit more tuneability, but we'll see. I have an intercooler sitting at home waiting to get put on as well. The Dynapack is a great dyno, but because my car builds boost so fast it can't hold the load high enough to keep the boost up, which is why my power drops off like it does. By redline my boost was down to 14psi, which is considerably lower than it should be. I'm happy with the results all things considered I suppose. On a Dynojet I would expect a tad under 300HP and TQ would be closer to 350. Next run I make I'll get on a Dynojet just for comparison sake. I need to zip tie all my vac. lines as well to make sure they don't pop off again. 27psi and 15 AF ratio was not good.
     
  8. St. Anky's

    St. Anky's www.ZBoardShop.com OT Supporter

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    wait...those numbers at the ENGINE?? i know fwd don lose nearly as much to drivetrain loss...but why does the graph say engine tq/hp w/e?

    whats it run?
     
  9. Possum Stomper

    Possum Stomper The Great Bird of the Galaxy

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    just out of curiosity, what did the car do in bone stock trim?
     
  10. RyeLou

    RyeLou OT Supporter

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    The part that says it's at the flywheel is a glitch with their program. Those numbers were the ones recorded at the hub of the car. Bone stock the car is 230hp (220hp on Dynapack, give or take). Dodge rated the cars for what they made to the wheels.

    It runs mid-12's with a 1.8 60'
     
  11. Camaro > rice

    Camaro > rice New Member

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  12. RyeLou

    RyeLou OT Supporter

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    There it is. And how fast are you?
     
  13. Bernout

    Bernout OT Supporter

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    I'd say that is an excellent time, good job.
     
  14. so you went from 230 to 270ish horse? with a 13 psi increase? :ugh:
     
  15. St. Anky's

    St. Anky's www.ZBoardShop.com OT Supporter

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    i would expect dynojet numbers to be about the same, not 30hp/50tq more...dynapack doesn show mustang dyno #s ya know

    srt 2.4L is a strong motor, but it don put down @ the wheels what its rated at the crank stock, trust me

    i assume slicks...and trap speed?
    ...just for reference for my own reason, cuz i run [email protected] with 330/345 @wheels (dynojet) and REALLY short gearing in my stang, and i find the mid 12s a lil hard to believe on a mildly modded srt...unless ur the best fucking fwd driver i know :o
     
  16. RyeLou

    RyeLou OT Supporter

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    I would expect dynojet numbers on my car to be a bit higher than dynapack. Because a turbo builds/holds boost based on load, unless the dynapack could be programed to apply a different amount of load throughout the run, my boost will fall of (as it did). My boost peaks at 21psi and is at 14psi by redline. I'd expect to see around 295/340 on a Dynojet, as honestly close to 100 people have from the SRT Forums.

    2.4L is a strong motor, and it does put down what it's rated from the factory. Go search on Google or Yahoo in their images for "SRT stock dyno" and you'll see a bunch of them ranging from 220 to 230. The lower usually being an '03 and the higher being the '04 and '05.

    With an even 2.0 60' time I'll run a 12.8 @ 110. With the 225/50/15 BFG Drag Radials I can get down to about a high 1.8 or so at best. Slicks could take me all the way to 1.6, but I drive around enough on the street screwing around where DR's make more sense than slicks for now. I'm not just into drag racing anyhow, so it works out.

    For reference, how heavy is your car? Mine weighs 2900 (about that anyhow) from the factory and I'm sure you're considerably heavier regardless of the power difference.

    I'm not sure where the 13psi came from, but no. Stock boost is around 14psi I think, and I'm just below 21 now. So a 6.X psi increase and it got me 45hp over stock on a dyno that couldn't produce the proper load to hold my boost.
     
  17. Possum Stomper

    Possum Stomper The Great Bird of the Galaxy

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  18. RyeLou

    RyeLou OT Supporter

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    Thanks man.

    I made up my mind the other day though that my next car would be RWD and V8 (and if not V8 something with as much potential...which doesn't exist in the US market in my opinion). I'm a HUGE fan of the GTO, but those are on their way out so we'll see. I'll be buying a new car and selling the SRT within 2 years tops.
     
  19. mcr205

    mcr205 New Member

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    Dynapacks read the highest of all dynometers. Mustang dynos read the lowest however they are the best for actual tuning. Dynojet is somewhere in between.
     
  20. Camaro > rice

    Camaro > rice New Member

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    good decision :bigthumb:
     
  21. RyeLou

    RyeLou OT Supporter

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    I've heard otherwise from various people. What I've been saying about Dynapacks and load for boost makes sense too. I've heard Dynojets make the most, and Mustangs make the least with Dynapacks in the middle. I've never heard Mustang dynos are best for tuning though.
     
  22. RyeLou

    RyeLou OT Supporter

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    I figured you'd be happy with that. Now I'll make you hate me again when I inform you I picked the SRT over an '01 SS when deciding which car to buy back in May. (However, the SS was at a private dealership that required me to be approved and have the money before they would even let me buy the car which I told them was shit. I convinced them to let me drive the car 2 miles, during which time the check engine light came on and my ear was filled with excuses upon my return)
     
  23. Possum Stomper

    Possum Stomper The Great Bird of the Galaxy

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    :Owned:
     
  24. St. Anky's

    St. Anky's www.ZBoardShop.com OT Supporter

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    a large roller puts more load that dynapack spindles do. imo (for any car) i don't really give a hoot bout #s unless its on a mustang dyno...probly just me, but ive seen dynos for my car stock range from 245 to 295 depending on type and situation, but mustang dyno #s are always from 250 to 275, and the diff is mostly b/w auto and manuals

    i based my comment on what i or friends have personally witnessed, which usually falls between 205 and 215 rwhp and more or less the same tq on a dynojet. most ive ever seen with stock turbo was 285, and that was one tricked out MF...could never break 13.2@~106 tho even with DR :dunno:

    3600lbs wet and loaded, 3400 dry and no occupant
     
  25. RyeLou

    RyeLou OT Supporter

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    What car(s) are you talking about here? If you're talking about an SRT hitting 285 on the stock trubo and that had every bolt on that would make sense on a Mustang dyno considering they generally read a little lower than others. On a Dynojet with most bolt ons you will hit 300 give or take 5hp. The highest stock turbo car is 337hp and that is running 25psi. It's a company car that they're actually trying to blow the turbo so they can start playing with other turbos on it. It made 448tq.

    Anyhow, I've seen an SRT with just a boost controller and slicks run a 13.2 before. With the stock turbo there are two or three people who hit an 11.9xx and most with my mods are seeing low to mid 12's with slicks, mid to high 12's with DR and low 13's with street tires. It's all based on traction obviously.

    I agree with what you said about any dyno with a roller will have more load than a Dynapack, and that was my point. Considering the Dynapack couldn't prodoce as much load as I would see driving down the street, I don't think the numbers are too accurate.

    I, like you, don't really care about numbers though. So as long as I keep going back to the same dyno and we keep running my car with the same 3000rpm to 6100rpm for the same duration of time, I'll still be able to see what each of my mod levels is producing compared to the one I just did. Unfortunatly I didn't do a stock one, but I'm not too interested in numbers anyhow so I'm not concerned. I'm more interested in my AF ratio first and then to see how my area under the curve has improved. I'm way more interested in area under the curve than a peak number I see for a split second.
     

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