Do I need to use a 'swirl remover'?

Discussion in 'That'll Buff Right Out' started by Kerpal, Jun 5, 2003.

  1. Kerpal

    Kerpal handlobraes

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    I've been using Meguairs Fine Cut, Show Car Glaze, and High Tech Yellow Wax for a while now with good results... I've been using these products by hand. I did a teal car, a light blue one, and a gold one... the light blue car came out perfect, but the others ended up with some very fine swirl marks under certain light angles. Very hard to see 99% of the time, but irritating when you're in the right light to see them.

    Now I'm in the process of using these products on my friends's burgundy truck, and I'm trying an orbital buffer since its a large vehicle. I've done the Fine Cut so far, and there are lots of swirl marks visible, although other than that the paint looks way better. I'm going to use the Show Car Glaze with the buffer next, but if that fails to remove the remaining swirl marks, what product is best to get rid of them?

    When I finally apply the wax, is it safe to use the orbital buffer with a terry cloth pad; or had I better do it all by hand? The buffer I have won't take foam pads. Will using the buffer + terry for this final step leave any swirls?

    Dark colors are tricky to get perfect... I can't wait till I detail my black Acura... yeah right. I dunno if I wanna attempt the buffer on that one at all, or just do the whole damn thing by hand...
     
  2. Buck-O

    Buck-O Guest

    First of all, get an orgital buffer, or get an attatchment for yours to make it accept foam pads. Terry clotch pads can cause swirl makrs, and possibly burn paint. With a low speed setting, and a foam pad, your golden.

    Products for swirl removal, Swirl Remover 2.0 from Megruires Mirror Glaze line, also try the medium cut, then the fine, then maybe some Dual Action Cleaner Polish. Also the 3M swirl remover. Check the product lists, and do a search, there is plenty of info there. Also check out Autopia.org, tons of useful information there.

    As for the wax, do it by hand. Maybe you should consider geting some S100, and going that route for your wax, cant get much simpler then that.
     
  3. Kerpal

    Kerpal handlobraes

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    I ended up doing 2 coats of the Show Car Glaze with the orbital buffer... one would have been OK but I decided might as well go all out... then topped it with a coat of Yellow Wax by hand... 99% of the swirl marks are gone and the paint bling-blings now... :big grin: I'm pretty content with that b/c the paint isn't perfect anyway, it has quite a few scratches if you look closely, but from 4+ feet away it looks like show quality, brand new paint... :wiggle:

    The buffer I'm using is just an inexpensive consumer type, it doesn't look like it can accept foam pads, but maybe I'm wrong... do cheaper buffers usually have the ability to use foam?
     
  4. Buck-O

    Buck-O Guest

    It depends on the buffer, some of the buffers comercially avliable have foam bonnets you can put on them. Check and see.
    Now depending on how serious you are, you could buy a new orbital buffer for a "reasonable" price.
    I just recently picked myself up a Porter Cable 7336SP Random Orbital Buffer and Sander from lowes for $109. It has plent of attatchments avliable for it. Go to Autopia.org and look at their porter cable information. Its more then you would probibly ever want to know.

    lad to heat it all worked out for you! :bigthumb:
    I just yesterday did a 1989 Toyota Celica All-Trac, white, with no clear coat. And had alot of success using the PC(porter cable) with Swirl Remover 2.0, and then S100 SEPC, once the SEPC was put on 98% of the swirls disapeared, and then the show car glaze helpped remove the other few remaining ones. THe one spot where i couldent get was on the side of the car where a pin stripe used to be, that was taken off before he got the car. And it looks like they tried to use a Scotch Brite pad to remove the adhesive residue on the paint :doh:. But other then that, the paint looks better then it did new, i rekon.
     
  5. Scottwax

    Scottwax Making detailing great again! Moderator

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    I would switch from Fine Cut to Dual Action Cleaner Polish since it has diminishing abrasives. As you work it into the paint, the abrasives break down into a finer polish with less marring of the paint than Fine Cut #2.

    You also might want to get some Swirl Free Polish (body shop pro line) or Swirl Remover #9 2.0 (mirror glaze line) which will give you an intermediate step between Fine Cut or Dual Action, or a less abrasive alternative if the paint is in decent shape.
     

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