GUN couple of questions about rifle scopes, and buffers

Discussion in 'On Topic' started by jehan60188, Jul 27, 2009.

  1. jehan60188

    jehan60188 New Member

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    so, i've got a 10/22, and a low-level (under $200) nikon scope.

    after zeroing in my rifle, i decided to take the rest of the day off, and go home. when i got home, i proceeded to disassemble and clean my rifle, leaving the scope on. so... i have to zero it in again, right?

    well, i went to zero it in again, and noticed the base plate (?) (the thing on which the scope rings go) was loose. so i had to take off the rings, and tighten the screws
    sooooo, now i have to zero it in, again, right?

    also, will http://www.tufferbuffer.com/ this prevent/delay the loosening of the screws on the base plate?
     
  2. 90free400e

    90free400e New Member

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    you dont have to re-zero unless the scope gets loose or is removed from the receiver. If you simply take the receiver out of the stock, it should be fine. I used some thread lock to keep the rail from coming loose, and it has worked fine.
     
  3. mattsb2000

    mattsb2000 OT Supporter

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    Loctite the screws.

    I've taken the barrel out of the receiver on my 10/22 and I didn't have to re zero. It was off a bit,but not horrid.
     
  4. yar1182

    yar1182 New Member

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    depends. If you remove the barrel from the 10/22 and then reattach you may have to re-zero. If the scope mount base comes loose and you remove scope and reattach you may have to re-zero. You will have to shoot it and see. A lot of it depends on the rings you have. You can try to be careful by making sure rings are mounted to the same spot and torqued to the same tension. Same with barrel, make sure it's torqued to same tension.

    Honestly I myself would assume it needs to re-zero. In future make sure scope mount base screws are red loctited. Do not remove barrel for cleaning. Either use a bore snake. Or have the back of the receiver drilled out so you can run a rod though.
     
  5. This pretty much sums it up. Also, when tightening the screw that holds the action into the stock, tighten it to the same torque setting each time.
     
  6. phrozenlikwid

    phrozenlikwid New Member

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    Removing the stock usually requires a re-zero to be certain. Bedding will help here, but unless you are using a bedded stock and a torque wrench, you would be introducing inconsistencies into the system. If you want to really have fun, play with action screw torque values to find a "sweet spot" in regards to an accuracy node.

    I would red loctite the base screws (you likely won't be removing them much), and consider bedding the base to the action. 10/22's often have a casting inconsistency that manifests itself as a "hump" midway down the top of the receiver. Getting everything square and jiving well together pays dividends in the long run.
     
  7. yar1182

    yar1182 New Member

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    I've had good luck with the VQ pillar bedding. It's repeatable for me as long as I torque it consistently.
     
  8. jehan60188

    jehan60188 New Member

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    thanks for the tips everyone!
     
  9. phrozenlikwid

    phrozenlikwid New Member

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    Haven't used the VQ stuff myself, but heard it's decent. I still hog shit out, and flood the bitch with Devcon.

    Supposedly a hot setup that I was hearing (though this would likely apply more to heavy barrel setups) was to FL bed the barrel, and float the action. Obviously that wouldn't work with all stock designs (your's in particular).
     

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