Care to critique my car stereo idea?

Discussion in 'OT Technology' started by DAD DICK, Feb 8, 2007.

  1. DAD DICK

    DAD DICK MAKE AMERICA GROPE AGAIN OT Supporter

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    This is all going in an 87 Buick Grand National.

    I just want a nice sounding system all around, not trying to impress anyone or blow my own trunk lid off, just good sound as inexpensively as possible.

    I like the Alpine CDA-9857, looks like they can be had for about $260 shipped. Feel free to recommend another nice head unit but I am partial to Alpine.

    I went to a local stereo shop today and listened to the Kicker KS stuff, Alpine something, and Kenwood something, the Kickers definently sounded the best to my ears, all were around the same price.

    My car has 3.5's in the dash, 5.25's in the doors, and 4x10's in the back which I plan to get adapter plates to install 6x9's.

    I already have an A/D/S PQ20 amp, 4/3/2 ch amp, underrated old school reference amp, no frills. 80x4 at 4ohm, 100x4 at 2 ohm or 200x2 at 2 ohm.

    I like the Kicker CVR12, dvc 2 ohm..looks like a single 12 with a box can be had for $150.

    I'm thinking bridge ch 3+4 for the sub, putting 200w into the single 12" (dual 4 ohm vc's run parallel for a single 2ohm load), run the 3.5's and 5.25's in series/parallel on ch1 and the 6x9's on ch2.

    I've found the 3.5's for $30, the 5.25's for $50 and the 6x9's for 80.

    3.5's $30
    5.25's $50
    6x9's $80
    head unit $260
    sub/box $150

    $570 total, would this be an ok system and can I run all this from the one amp? I've been told that it would sound better than trying to use the internal amp on the head unit anyway.
     
  2. rebs

    rebs shares AIDS OT Supporter

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    I would get a 5.25" component set, and place the tweeter where you 3.5"s would be. Aftermarket 3.5"s are a complete waste.
     
  3. DAD DICK

    DAD DICK MAKE AMERICA GROPE AGAIN OT Supporter

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    That's not a bad idea, should I power it the way I posted or try to use the power section of the head unit on maybe the tweeters and use ch1 and 2 for the 5.25's and 6x9's in parallel, a pair per channel and ch 3+4 bridged for the 12"?
     
  4. rebs

    rebs shares AIDS OT Supporter

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    The components will have a crossover that has one input and 2 outs..so use ch 1 and 2 for each side, and 3/4 for the sub.
     
  5. DAD DICK

    DAD DICK MAKE AMERICA GROPE AGAIN OT Supporter

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    What about the 6x9's in the back?
     
  6. rebs

    rebs shares AIDS OT Supporter

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    all to one channel
     
  7. DAD DICK

    DAD DICK MAKE AMERICA GROPE AGAIN OT Supporter

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    Sorry man,
    I appreciate the help but I'm not following you. I will have 50x4 from the head unit and 80x2 + 200x1 from the power amp. I am guessing that I would use 2 channels of the head unit for the front tweeters to replace the 3.5's, bridge ch1+2 for the sub and run the pair of 5.25's on ch 3 and the pair of 6x9's on ch 4, is this the best way to do it?
     
  8. rebs

    rebs shares AIDS OT Supporter

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    LOL ok

    no 3.5"s...at all...

    replace 5.25"s with components so you can install the tweeter alone where your factory 3.5"s are

    use your 4ch to to run the components and 6x9"s in the car (2ohm), and 3/4 for the sub. Your deck is 50x4 MAX..its more like 18x4..

    nothing runs off the head unit...
     
  9. 53k1a8

    53k1a8 the effects of the ugly stick are irreversible

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    i personaly like jl audio
     
  10. JRock10

    JRock10 Active Member

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    wire the tweeters out of phase, so that when the sound reflects off the windshield, they will be in phase with the woofers. also, making some sort of enclosure behind the 5.25s will give you better mid upfront.

    you could always make a set of 6.5 components fit in place of the 5.25s and forget about the rear speakers all together. somthing with a smaller magnet, such as PPI or Kenwood Excelon Dual Mags (the tweeter is a lil harsh, but can be toned down on the xover and they are super thin, while still giving decent midbass performance)
     
  11. DAD DICK

    DAD DICK MAKE AMERICA GROPE AGAIN OT Supporter

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    How do you wire the tweets out of phase? Just reverse the polarities? The door speakers are actually in their own small enclosure that extrudes from the doors, it was called 'Concert Sound' from the factory, supposedly a step up from the regular stereo. I was curoius what it might take to make a set of 6.5's fit in the doors. I was wanting to stick to the same brand for all of the speakers, is there something else around the same price point as the Kicker KS stuff that sounds better? Is it general concensus to not use the power section on any head unit? Any input on the Alpine I like?
     
  12. JRock10

    JRock10 Active Member

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    1. yes.
    2. probably a little trimming here and there.
    3. for the money, not really. Kicker stuff is pretty nice for the price point
    4. for the most part. I don't like Alpine. It's not bad stuff, just personal preference. I just don't like the product. I use Kenwood Excelon. I feel you get more for your money with the Kenwood stuff.
     
  13. DAD DICK

    DAD DICK MAKE AMERICA GROPE AGAIN OT Supporter

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    Thank you for the concise answers. I will open the door panels and see what it would take to make 6.5's work. I'll look into the Kenwood as well, any particular model? I'm looking at the $250ish range on a head unit. What about the power from the head? Is it worthless or would it be ok to run the tweets on?
     
  14. JRock10

    JRock10 Active Member

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    if you do kenwood, go with the excelon line. 4v preouts front rear and sub.

    also, when using components, they will have crossovers that you will power with the amp, and then the crossovers divide the signal to the proper driver
     

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