best amp for jl audio 12w6v2????

Discussion in 'OT Technology' started by 007, Jul 29, 2008.

  1. 007

    007 Riden, sliden, whipin and dippin, my chrome strips

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  2. JRock10

    JRock10 Active Member

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    hwo much power do you need?
     
  3. P07r0457

    P07r0457 New Member

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    those like ~500W, iirc.
     
  4. 007

    007 Riden, sliden, whipin and dippin, my chrome strips

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    CVS112RG-W6v2
    Driver(s): One 12W6v2-D4
    Continuous Power Handling: 600W
    Final Impedance: 2 ohm mono
    Enclosure Type: Sealed enclosure, rear-firing design
    Finish: Black vinyl / carpet, steel mesh grille
    Net Weight: 45.1 lbs. / 20.48 kg
    (H) Height 14.75 in. / 375 mm
    (W) Width 24.0 in. / 610 mm
    (D1) Depth 12.5 in. / 317.5 mm
    (D2) Top Surface Depth 7.25 in. / 184 mm
     
  5. MaximaDrvr

    MaximaDrvr Member

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    If you want to spend the cash, the JL 500/1 is a good combo.
     
  6. Justin Niggalake

    Justin Niggalake New Member

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  7. 007

    007 Riden, sliden, whipin and dippin, my chrome strips

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    ive read alot about jl makin poor amps.
     
  8. Xtreme Racer

    Xtreme Racer Get Some Dome

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    500/1 or HD7501 ;)
     
  9. 007

    007 Riden, sliden, whipin and dippin, my chrome strips

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    500/1 in the mail, this mother fucker is gonna be straight slap!!!!
     
  10. MaximaDrvr

    MaximaDrvr Member

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    I would say that JL makes a more 'fragile' amp. Though, if you are beating up a high dollar amp, then you deserve to have to buy another.
     
  11. somebody5788

    somebody5788 New Member

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    I need a w6....
     
  12. slod16

    slod16 New Member

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    I worked with JL amps for 5 years and they had the least amount of problems I've ever dealt with. I own a 500/1 and a 450/4 and played the shit out of them and never had one issue.
     
  13. alovell

    alovell Active Member

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    lol.

    I had a JL 500/1 with a W6v2 for about 3 years that I got used and I beat the hell out of both of them with both amazingly loud music and physically in the trunk.

    They were both amazing and I never had one problem.

    I probably won't buy anything 'not-JL' for a while.
     
  14. twistid

    twistid Banged By Super Models Moderator

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    i've seen more non-working jl amps, come through the shop... than working jl amps.
     
  15. OniMinion

    OniMinion ...recalls when this forum was actually about cars OT Supporter

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    These^
    Try to find an AMP that can do a continuous (RMS) 400-550Watts (not peak).
     
  16. bd1000

    bd1000 Relax and have a homebrew

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    12W6v2 - 500/1v2 here, really like it
     
  17. kwhitelaw

    kwhitelaw OT Supporter

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    uhh, a 500/1 does 500w.

    when i ran my bay, i had maybe one or 2 JL amps go bad IF they came from a reputable place, with serial numbers still intact. usually was a dead channel on the 300/4.

    I can distinctly remember 3 instances where we installed an internet purchased JL amp, missing the serial numbers, and it was DOA.

    the fact that the sub sits at a 2 ohm load makes it easy to find an amp to run it, without spending the money for a JL amp. but no way would I buy JL amps online as it will be taken apart to get at the inside serial numbers, a lot of times being put back together incorrectly, causing the amp to be bad.
     
  18. twistid

    twistid Banged By Super Models Moderator

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    all the jl amps i've seen, came from the other shop in town... they dropped the line, after having too many failures... we're in such a small market, that you have to sell stuff that stays out... or it gets around, and you have no customers.
     
  19. kwhitelaw

    kwhitelaw OT Supporter

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    thats weird... my shop literally had a handful of failures in years, and I wouldnt put it passed the customers to have disconnected a sub and left the spkr wires just back there chillin, touching each other and frying the output..

    any chance the other shop in your town wasnt too keen on setting the amps up correctly, or maybe the type customer they were selling them to liked to tweak the amp, i.e. peg the gain and bass eq etc??

    hard to say, but I'd definitely not say they are "fragile" like said elsewhere in this thread..
     
  20. GammaRadiation

    GammaRadiation Active Member

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    Pegging a gain shouldn't damage the amp. At most it should blow a fuse or send it into protect after enough time. By design speakers are the least durable component in the system. I want them to be the ONLY thing that will fail when I push my system too hard.

    While I haven't heard about reliability issues with JL amps, they are grossly inefficient. At least the older Slash series are.

    I've heard good things about the Alpine PDX line. They are efficient, compact, clean power, good looking, and have a variable voltage power supply just like the JL slash series so they make the same power from 2-4ohm.
     
  21. kwhitelaw

    kwhitelaw OT Supporter

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    I agree, but 'pegging' an amp and introducing clipping into the system could have ill effects on the spkr, which could then be assumed as a "bad" amp by the consumer..

    in addition, most consumers dont understand that tossing in a JL500/1 or 10000/1 with a 75a alternator, stock battery (with the factory 6ga. ground from battery to chassis) and a cheap chinese "4ga" amp kit (8ga with thick insul) is going to cause problems. I'd attribute situations like this to people falsely blaming an amp, be it JL or another company, as being inferior when the outcome isnt desired.

    I do agree that the slash are current hogs, but I'd take them IF my charging system could keep up. I enjoyed the flexibility of the xover and easy integration with factory amp'ed systems without LOCS etc.

    on the flip side, I remember numerous times where I felt the alpine pdx sub amps felt weak.. the pdx5 sub channel didnt seem like an honest 300w, regardless of what the birth sheet stated. and I remember a couple times yanking pdx11000 out and swapping in jl1000/1 and it being night and day difference..

    different strokes
     
  22. GammaRadiation

    GammaRadiation Active Member

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    I haven't used the PDX line, they just look good on paper and up until your statement, I hadn't heard anything negative about their performance. :)

    I've never owned a mono amplifier <1200w, therefore I've never really gotten to drive the shit out of smaller amps or do swap testing with them.

    I do not understand why JL allowed a class D amp to hit full production with ~50% efficiency. I installed 4 RE 8's on a 500/1 with a 450/4 in a Sierra 1500 ext cab and with offroad lights on and the stereo at moderate/comfortable volume the voltage would dip enough to notice it in the lights. This is w/o any electrical upgrades, however. Still, I currently have a 1500w @ 1ohm amp running at 0.5ohm and a 100wx2 A/B for my mids/highs and I have to go nearly full tilt before the voltage changes enough to notice dimming on a 105a alt with big 3 and a yellow top.

    Edit: For the record, I've never had a single problem in my limited experience with JL. My gripe with JL is amp efficiency and price vs performance. IMO their lower end stuff is over priced for what you get and their higher end stuff is worth the money if you can get a B&M to cut you a deal, but you can achieve similar (or even better) results for less.
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2009
  23. OniMinion

    OniMinion ...recalls when this forum was actually about cars OT Supporter

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    I said this because 500 is probably peak, not CONTINIOUS power rating. There is a huge difference.

    As far as everyone else saying you should have 0/1 gage. Caps make a huge difference, but I'll say this:

    I tried my system without a cap and regretted it right away. I ended up buying a 1microfaret cap and still my lights would bump with the music. I then upgraded my alternator and purchased and deep cycle marine battery for my car and found that my car's acceleration returned. My lights also stopped telling people to pull over as well.
     
  24. kwhitelaw

    kwhitelaw OT Supporter

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    500/1 is continous, not peak...

    caps are a waste of money.

    the upgraded alternator helped you the most, but hopefully you upgraded the ground line from the battery to the chassis..
     
  25. GammaRadiation

    GammaRadiation Active Member

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    :rofl:

    500/1 does 500w RMS.

    500/1 needs at least 4ga, 2ga would be ideal.

    Capacitors have nothing to do with the size power wire you should run.

    Your system would be more efficient with out the cap. First thing to upgrade is the battery, then the alt. Caps aren't a total waste of money, but they dont do much for subwoofer amps pounding out long bass notes. Caps can offer some voltage stability when the draw is extremely dynamic.

    Car audio caps are not measured in farets. They're measured in farads. They are not measured in microfarads (if they were, it would be the symbol mu in front of the farad). Car audio caps are generally measured in farads.

    Had you purchased the alt and deep cycle to begin with, you would have gotten the same results.
     

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