Are Roller Rocker Arms worth the money?

Discussion in 'OT Driven' started by BaronVonBullshit, Sep 6, 2006.

  1. BaronVonBullshit

    BaronVonBullshit New Member

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    Im building a Gen I smallblock, .030 over to a 383. somewhere from 9.5:1-10.5:1 compression (depending on which valves/pistons I buy)

    looking at this rotating assembly [​IMG]
    ESP-B12110030

    $1,969.95
    Estimated Ship Date: 9/18/06


    and this manifold
    [​IMG]
    EDL-2825

    probably throw an 850 carb on it for kicks and i still havent decided on heads.
    $539.95
    Estimated Ship Date: Today

    #s are from www.summitracing.com

    Also, any suggestions on which aluminum heads to use? I'm still in the "wish list" phase, but thats most of the battle. My block is stripped and waiting :noes:


    looking for a drivable 450bhp/480ftlbs
     
  2. dr.zed

    dr.zed DR.ZED OT Supporter

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    I have Comp Cam Pro Mags. I bought them because of a few simple things I thought was logical. Reduce friction, and increase valvetrain RPM and reliability. I built my valvetrain to rev to 6600, but keep it around 6000. This is an LT1.

    Reducing friction reduces heat. Pretty logical eh? Also the ratio is more exact, vs. a stamped steel unit.

    However!!!! All you have to do is look at the LSx series of engines. ESPECIALLY the LS7... this is a 7000 RPM, rock solid reliable engine as is every stock LSx. They use roller fulcrum, but NOT rollor tips? Why? Obviously galling isn't an issue, nor is reliability OR high RPM use. I didn't give my rollor rockers a second thought, until I started tearing into LSx engines to see they didn't have rollor tips. Maybe they're not worth the cost vs. benefit????

    I don't know anymore.
     
  3. Maliboost

    Maliboost New Member

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    well, with that intake being single plane, thus being meant for higher rpms i'd say yeah, they are worth it
     
  4. Maliboost

    Maliboost New Member

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    oh and 850 carb might be on the big side unless you are planning ~8000rpms


    750 is good to at least 7000
     
  5. matrix243

    matrix243 My body, is ready.

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    whats 200 bucks?

    all the little deficiencies add up. but nothing you'll see from one specific component.
     
  6. BaronVonBullshit

    BaronVonBullshit New Member

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    yeah thats what i thought too, but i read a recent hot rod where they did a 450bhp 383 Gen I and they threw an 850 demon on it :dunno:
     
  7. BaronVonBullshit

    BaronVonBullshit New Member

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    yeah i dont really plan on taking this one over 6000. but i was thinking along the sames lines as you with the reduced heat/friction, and the ability to make easier valve adjustments. maybe i'll just go stock and worry about it later. it's a pretty easy mod. :o
     
  8. MAD PUNK inDC

    MAD PUNK inDC Sic Semper Tyrannis

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    FYI, most of the factory Q Jets were 750 -800 carbs. Also if you plan on driving this around all the time, and in all kinds of weather, without having the rejet or maintenance the damn thing every month, I would stick with a modded Q-jet. These units are very reliable, offer superior drivability, and are more durable than the Hollys.
    People will bitch about them, and talk shit about the Q-jet, only because they niether understand, or have bothered to research them.They get a bad rep, because high milage stock units usualy bend the rod that holds the cam that lifts the metering rods, leading to sluggish performance. However a properly rebuilt, or modded unit from a company like Edelbrock solves this problem.

    As far as roller rockers go, I would go with at least roller fulcrum rockers, but for only a little more you can get full rollers, wich often weigh a little less, and will reduce some friction. I know people will say "but the LSx this" but you have to remember that GM uses much lighter valves on the LS7, and the cast roller fulcrum rockers are still cheaper than full rollers. While what GM uses in the GenIII and IV motors is great, full rollers are still better. You might also consider going with guide plates and a "rev kit" for your 383 if you want the extra RPMs, since these items a low doller.

    as far as heads go, that really depends on what you intend to do with your car. A 383 is a fairly large engine, but not so large that you need the absolute largest runners possible. In fact using a head with runners too large can kill low end power, as the intake charge will have a tendency to stagnate, and you may even suffer reversion at idle. Also I would not rule out iron heads. While these are heavier, they are also more durable, and offer superior thermal propertys over aluminum. Again this is up to you to decide on. If I were building a daily driver, that I plan on putting over 100k on I might look at Iron insted. These days most of the reputable manufactures can match you up with a head/cam combo that will put you exactly where you need to be for what you want to do. I would consult them first.
     
  9. SporkLover

    SporkLover New Member

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    Couldnt Agree with you more. When I built my 355 I went through two holley's that I wasnt satisfied with before settling on a Edelbrock carb. Driving around town was soooo much more livable in the Edelbrock.

    Any LSX valve will be lighter than whats in your typical SBC. They have thinner valve stems.

    In a SBC application I would say absolutely go with roller rockers.

    DART Iron Eagles FTW!!!
     
  10. MAD PUNK inDC

    MAD PUNK inDC Sic Semper Tyrannis

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    :cool: I haven't built an engine in a few years, but the last one I did was a 400 with Dart Iron Eagles, and an Edelbrock Torquer manifold. It was a pretty healthy engine, too bad I never made it to the dyno.
     
  11. SporkLover

    SporkLover New Member

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    In the dirt track arena, in classes where Iron heads are required, just about every Chevy guy will use the DART Iron Eagles. Best designed 23 degree Iron heads out there.

    400's are pretty Awesome, but sadly not so popular these days. One my favorite past rides is a 84 Vette with a 406. It wasnt topped with Dart Iron Eagles, it had Trick Flow Twisted Wedges.
     
  12. Lindsay Loham

    Lindsay Loham New Member

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    trick flow heads

    (dont mind my noobness im at a friends house)
     
  13. Minkish

    Minkish Tomorrow's as close as yesterday

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    your avatar fucking rocks
     
  14. Ronin

    Ronin Guest

    i picked it out for them and that was me posting earlier ;)

    back home now, but yeah aluminium TFS heads are fuckin sick
     
  15. Ronin

    Ronin Guest

    PS that is one fucking expensive manifold
     
  16. deusexaethera

    deusexaethera OT Supporter

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    Yes, you want rocker arms with rollers, if you can find a set with a matching camshaft. The rollers are a different shape than the sliders that cheap rocker arms have, so the camshaft has to be cut differently as well.

    The rollers reduce friction in the valvetrain. Less friction is always a good thing, except for brakes.
     
  17. BaronVonBullshit

    BaronVonBullshit New Member

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    OK, thanks everyone who replied, especially MadPunk. :bowdown:

    I think I might settle for iron heads, but weight actually is an issue for the front end, so I'm still unsure. It would save some major $$ though. As for the roller rockers, I'm pretty much sold. As well as with the Edelbrock carb. I will probably be driving this thing day to day, and I wont be competitive at all, but theres something to be said for doing it right the first time ;)

    Someone mentioned a rev kit... specifics? What components, how much $$, what performance gains? I imagine it would have to do with valve springs, piston weight, etc...?
     
  18. SporkLover

    SporkLover New Member

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    Mainly Valve Springs. I have seen them go for as cheap as $90.

    They sell under the name rev kit..... you can find them in Summit, Jegs, or any racers auctions
     
  19. MAD PUNK inDC

    MAD PUNK inDC Sic Semper Tyrannis

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    rev kits usualy consist of guide plates, and pre0load springs for the lifters, so that they don't collapse under high RPM use. Pretty cheap, good insurance if you ask me. If you want to go a little more modern, you might want to look into using a set of "beehive" valve springs too. They are lighter, and resist float better than conventional valve springs.
     
  20. matrix243

    matrix243 My body, is ready.

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    here's the roller rockers I'm going for. hefty 720 a set.

    [​IMG]
     
  21. deusexaethera

    deusexaethera OT Supporter

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    They look solid. Should last a good long time.

    Soak them in a pan of motor oil for a day before installing them, so the oil can embed itself in the spaces between the metal's crystals BEFORE they start getting beaten up inside the engine.
     
  22. Maliboost

    Maliboost New Member

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    camshaft design doesn't have anything to do with roller rockers, roller lifters yeah, but roller rockers no
     
  23. BaronVonBullshit

    BaronVonBullshit New Member

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    :eek4:

    I could buy an entire disc brake package for that :coolugh:
     
  24. matrix243

    matrix243 My body, is ready.

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    I could buy a car for that much.
     
  25. dr.zed

    dr.zed DR.ZED OT Supporter

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    True.

    You REALLY have to be running high RPM or extreme valve spring pressure to need those.
     

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