Applied Color's paint touch up kit

Discussion in 'That'll Buff Right Out' started by Scottwax, Dec 9, 2007.

  1. Scottwax

    Scottwax Making detailing great again! Moderator

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    Robert of Applied Colors contacted me and asked if I would like to test out a paint touch up kit his company is trying to put together.

    The kit includes numerous bottles of touch up paint and a paint match guide, dozens of paper mixing cups, thinners and thickeners, wax/grease removers, comprehensive instruction booklet, numerous touch up brushes of varying thickness, wetsanding block (but no wetsanding paper), etc.

    Mostly I have been trying it out like I would be using a bottle of the factory touch up paint. Sometimes I have had to mix together 2-3 of the same color scale to get a proper match. The plethora of brushes make it pretty easy to find the right one for the size scratch you are fixing-unlike factory touch up paint that has one brush size that always seems too thick.

    Here is a shot of the kit:

    [​IMG]

    I bought my Maxima a few weeks ago and it had a scratch on the passenger side rear pillar. I figured it would be a good test of a more extensive repair involving the touch up paint, wetsanding and buffing.

    Unfortunately, it was cloudy so the scratch doesn't look as bad as it actually is, plus the Lustre Grey color hides defects well. Anyway, the verticle part of the scratch is deep into the primer.

    [​IMG]

    I had to mix two of the silver/grey touch up paints together and it still wasn't quite dark enough when applied so I added a few drops of metallic black and it was very close. I overfilled the scratch a bit to compensate for the wetsanding to follow.

    [​IMG]

    I then wetsanded with 3M Imperial wet/dry (used it wet) 1500 grit followed by 2000 grit.

    [​IMG]

    As you can see, using a folded microfiber towel and Optimum Compound by hand wasn't removing the wetsanding marks-no suprise, just wanted to show that you likely can't remove wetsanding marks without a buffer.

    [​IMG]

    I then used my loaner Porter Cable 7428 rotary, a Soft Edge orange one step pad (amazingly smooth pad via rotary!) and Optimum Compound. Started off on 2, bumped it to 3 for several slow passes and it came out pretty much LSP ready.

    [​IMG]

    I followed with Poli-Seal using another orange Soft Edge pad and finished with the new version of Optimum Car Wax.

    [​IMG]

    It is not perfect, but before it was noticable from 10-15 feet. Now it is more like 2-3 feet, a pretty major improvement for not actually refinishing. There are a couple shallow areas I guess I didn't completely fill, so I'll probably go over them again when I have time.

    Overall, the kit seems to be pretty good. Obviously, it won't bring the paint to the level proper repair and repainting would but it does make a pretty big difference. Plus, you wouldn't be charging body shop money either and as long as the customer understands that they can get a very noticable improvement for maybe 10-15% of the cost a body shop would charge, they seem pretty happy.
     
  2. Paulie Walnuts

    Paulie Walnuts Im an agent of chaos

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    Nice Scott. Scott do you do a lot of wet sanding in your client work??

    How do you determine when you should wet sand? I have a scratch that I really want to do something about but Im deathly afraid of fucking it up. I really want to learn how because I have had clients cars where I know that if I could wet sand I could have made it a ton better.

    Also if you decide you like the rotary and would like to purchase it let me know, I will let it go for a very fair price.

    Have a nice Sunday!
     
  3. Scottwax

    Scottwax Making detailing great again! Moderator

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    Ryan-first time I've ever wetsanded paint since I took a paint/body class in high school. The wetsanding marks buffed out with no effort.

    Just go slow is the best advice I can give. I may do some wetsanding on my car to remove some of the orange peel.

    I'll probably end up selling my Cyclo and get the rotary.
     
  4. Paulie Walnuts

    Paulie Walnuts Im an agent of chaos

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    I see. Some on Autopia are really good at it. I think that one day I might just stroll into a body shop and talk to some guys there and see what they would charge me to teach me how to wetsand. Im still confused as to when its really appropriate to sand.

    I knew once you tried a rotary that you would love it. The 7428 is not the most popular rotary but man is that thing solid. I tried the Makita and did not like it all all. The Dewalt was too heavy and it did not feel right. Im going to try the Hitachi out and see how I like that. If I like it I will keep it otherwise its back to the Porter Cable. I have other PC tools as well and they are just built so solid.
     
  5. Scottwax

    Scottwax Making detailing great again! Moderator

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    Anthony Orosco really loves the Metabo...and I definitely trust his opinion.
     
  6. Copperhed5

    Copperhed5 New Member

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    Scott, how fine of a grit did you use when you wet sanded? I just repainted my motorcycle and had some pretty nasty orange peel in the clear. I wet sanded with 1200, 1500, and 2000 grit paper and used my PC random orbital with the red pad to buff it out. It came out incredibly easy. I had considered going up to a 3000 or finer grit paper but found it's not necessary at all. No need for a rotary either. Now to see if I sprayed enough clear on there to allow for the wet sanding. I suspect I'll have clear coat failure pretty prematurely, BUT I'm really happy with what I accomplished for my first time ever painting anything with a real gun and nice metallic paint.
     
  7. Scottwax

    Scottwax Making detailing great again! Moderator

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    :noes:
     
  8. Copperhed5

    Copperhed5 New Member

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    Silly me. I swear I read your entire post.
     
  9. justin30513

    justin30513 New Member

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    Very nice work Scott.
    Before long, you'll be removing orange peel from your customer's cars.

    Yeah...................

    HAHA!
     

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