A&P A couple space shots from last night

Discussion in 'Lifestyle' started by EWhytsell, Sep 7, 2008.

  1. EWhytsell

    EWhytsell New Member

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    I had to use my main scope last night due to fog at ground level so everything was very wet (my scope has heaters to keep optics dry.) I didn't bother getting lenses out because cleaning everything the next day is a pain.

    Both of these targets are extremely small (about the dia of a #2 pencile so I 100% cropped the area around them and set that NASA algorithm thingy I mentioned to an ungodly high level to increase their sizes.

    The first image was shot at 2032mm F/10 and the second was 1300mm F/6.3.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Evan
     
  2. EWhytsell

    EWhytsell New Member

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    hmm photobucket made the first one way to huge. Thought it was fixed.

    edit there we go.

    Oh and the first one is Ring Nebula and the other is Dumbell Nebula

    Evan
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2008
  3. TurkeyChicken

    TurkeyChicken New Member

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    awesome as always. was the tracking off a bit? it looks like both are blurred slightly.
     
  4. EWhytsell

    EWhytsell New Member

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    Yeah wasn't perfect because I"m using my old 1980's mount/drive assembly while my new rig is back at the factory getting repaired. The old stuff uses full step motors and the new stuff uses micro steppers so its much smoother. Shooting at that magnification leaves almost no room for error and I had to keep it down to 60 sec shutters to minimize the effect. Luckily only stars really get effected by slight errors so its not hard to fix it you wanna make a star mask and round them up nicely. I"ll probably do that to the one of the ring before I print it.

    Evan
     
  5. xenon supra

    xenon supra OT Supporter

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    .
     
  6. kill_turu_kill

    kill_turu_kill Turu the Terrible OT Supporter

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    Here's my first attempt taken 2 nights ago. This is a composite of four 2 minute exposures taken with a Canon XTi, a Canon 70-200mmL F4 at 70mm Piggybacked on a Celstron C8. Stacked in registax, contrast and red channel boosted in Gimp. Bright star is Deneb, and i believe that is the North American Nebula to its left.

    As you can see, I had trouble getting a satisfying background sky color.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Etherized

    Etherized Active Member

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    insane
     
  8. Valence

    Valence Gustav Refugee

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    man i've always dreamed of riggin up a good telescope to a laptop or camera to get good magnified high res shots. never was sure how to do it exactly
     
  9. kill_turu_kill

    kill_turu_kill Turu the Terrible OT Supporter

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    That was the first time I've shot astro in probably 15 years, and the one thing hasn't changed-you're only as good as your weakest link. In this case, the "piggyback" bracket was having trouble coping with the weight of the zoom lens, and if I tried to take photos that were not directly due north or due south, the fucker would rotate, causing the camera/lens to swing around quickly and threaten to smash up against the telescope's fork mount. And in hindsight, I should have taken more subs of the same area as I posted, and not worried about trying to capture other objects.
     
  10. Valence

    Valence Gustav Refugee

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    they oughtta make an affordable automated motorized telescope that does video out by usb or firewire to a laptop OR camcorder in some form of high def. (they may already have this)
     
  11. hootpie

    hootpie New Member

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    Space photography is so badass. Keep posting up your pics!
     
  12. EWhytsell

    EWhytsell New Member

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    Check out walmarts website. You should be able to buy a Meade or Celestron scope between $20(yes 20) - $500 bucks that will be motorized, have a camera with USB, and since they made by 2 of the major name brands in the business they will have some reasonably good optics.

    At the very least if you want to give widefield shots a try you could probably buy one of the cheaper motorized ones and mount a camera in place of the telescope.

    Evan
     
  13. EWhytsell

    EWhytsell New Member

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    Thats a good shot really. Not sure where you live, but keep in mind light pollution by looking at the histogram of a few shots. You'll want to find the sweet spot in your shutter times so that the histogram is 1/3 of the way from the left. That should provide the best signal/noise ratio.

    Other than that it looks like a black level adjustment(maybe red level in your case) would make some of the nebula stand out better, but I see at least 2 nebula for sure.

    If you center your camera on that bright star near the bottom and do it again you'll get Veil nebula in the frame. You got just a little bit of it.

    Evan
     
  14. kill_turu_kill

    kill_turu_kill Turu the Terrible OT Supporter

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    What's the process for adjusting black level?
     
  15. kill_turu_kill

    kill_turu_kill Turu the Terrible OT Supporter

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    I remember reading someone on cloudy nights had good luck with this inexpensive mount and drive (see the sidebar for the drive). You'll probably have to shoot with a lens of 50mm or less due to periodic error, but it's a cheap way to get into deep sky astrophotography.

    On the upper end, I've been lusting after the Kenko Skymount. There have been shots with up to 400mm lens on it that look amazing, but the price is much steeper.

    http://www.telescope.com/control/pr...pods/~pcategory=accessories/~product_id=09055
     
  16. kill_turu_kill

    kill_turu_kill Turu the Terrible OT Supporter

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    I live in New Orleans, but that was taken from Destin, Florida (evacuated for Hurricane Gustav, and I keep the C8 at my parents home there) . Skies from overhead to the North are great, milkyway to the horizon, but Southern skies are fairly light polluted. Thanks for the histogram info info.
     
  17. Seeders

    Seeders OT Supporter

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    so awesome. i looks just like dust particles in some liquid :noes:
     
  18. EWhytsell

    EWhytsell New Member

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    What I usually do is from within the levels adjustment select the black level eyedropper icon then I pick a part of the image that doesn't contain any of the subject and click that point. It then clips off all data at that brightness and lower. You could do it for each channel, but I usually leave it set for RGB. Also on an unmodified (IR filter not removed) DSLR when you doing your final adjustments to the image I've found you get more correct color by bumping the Red in curves or levels just a hair.

    Evan
     
  19. Mutombo

    Mutombo New Member

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    Cool stuff as always :cool:
     
  20. EWhytsell

    EWhytsell New Member

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    Here's one I just finished processing. Its the "Great Hercules Cluster." This ones bright, but very difficult to process. I figured I better take another shot at it before it sets for the season. Not a great one, but not to bad either. Perfect tracking, focus, and alignment of the optics is required to get this one right. At least I had focus and alignment down, but tracking wasn't great.

    [​IMG]

    Evan
     
  21. kill_turu_kill

    kill_turu_kill Turu the Terrible OT Supporter

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    Thanks! Here's the same photo with the black adjusted. NA Nebula jumps out a little more.

    [​IMG]
     
  22. kill_turu_kill

    kill_turu_kill Turu the Terrible OT Supporter

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    What was the exposure/subs for this one? Globulars are tough.
     
  23. EWhytsell

    EWhytsell New Member

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    24 subs at 15 sec each with 10 15 sec dark frames. Yes globulars are tough and that one is very nasty. I played around with longer ones before, but it made it much harder to process the detail without blowing the center.
    If I had known it was gonna turn out as sharp I would have done 60 15 sec subs. Oh well moons up now I guess I'll shoot it at a star party next month.

    I haven't shot any flat frames yet. I've read into it and its not really as necessary on cassegrain type scopes. It seems to correct vignetting in refractors and the built in corrector plate does most of that for me. Bias frames also seem kinda pointless.

    Evan
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2008
  24. kill_turu_kill

    kill_turu_kill Turu the Terrible OT Supporter

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    How do you create/apply dark frames in Registax? I've tried but have had problems. I know there is the "Create Dark Frames" and "Load Dark Frames", but it doesn't behave as I expect. I recorded two nice darks and would like to apply them to that shot at some point.

    Thanks-
     
  25. EWhytsell

    EWhytsell New Member

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    I found out a few months ago that registax is for planetary stuff so it works great for that, but it almost doesn't work for deep space stuff. deepskystacker.com has another free one that is awesome for deep space. Its also much easier to use. You just select your frames, darks and start the process.

    Evan
     

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